• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Smoothbore Loads

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I've shot 60 gr. of fff out of my .62 smoothbore for years, and it has worked very good for me as far as range work. When I hunt with it, I normally load a little different, using a pinch of wasp's nest between the powder and the patch and up the powder to 70 grains. That load has worked well on deer and hogs for me.
 
I've shot 60 gr. of fff out of my .62 smoothbore for years, and it has worked very good for me as far as range work. When I hunt with it, I normally load a little different, using a pinch of wasp's nest between the powder and the patch and up the powder to 70 grains. That load has worked well on deer and hogs for me.


I’ve used 70 grn of fffg in my .50 cal for years , with better than normal results.

Several have dropped in their tracks.

70 grns of ffg in a .54 cal, my results weren't so great.

That was the second deer I’ve lost with my muzzle loader, one with the .50 & one with my .54.

The difference between 70 grns of fffg vs ffg , IMHO is substantial.
Add to the fact your pushing a heavier ball , which I think would tend too give a lower muzzle velocity.

IMHO that’s what I feel cost me one of the deer I lost.
 
What I found with mine is that with a bare ball it needed higher charges to get good groups. with a powder, wad, patch, ball combination it likes the lighter charges a whole lot better.

I shoot 70 grains of FFg with a wad and patched .600 ball. I have only shot one doe with that combination but it did not complain that it did not have enough oomph!

I would not hesitate to shoot, elk, or bear with that load!

Good Luck!
 
What I found with mine is that with a bare ball it needed higher charges to get good groups. with a powder, wad, patch, ball combination it likes the lighter charges a whole lot better.

I shoot 70 grains of FFg with a wad and patched .600 ball. I have only shot one doe with that combination but it did not complain that it did not have enough oomph!

I would not hesitate to shoot, elk, or bear with that load!

Good Luck!
JRM,
I am assuming that was out of your smoothbore.
One thing I haven't tried yet is a wad over the powder and a PRB.
I will give that a go!
I even punched some out of leather per LeLoup's preference to try
 
I too have put a wad behind a patched ball sometimes. I read way back when I first joined this forum that the wad helps cushion the ball. Does that make sense to anyone else?
 
Don't know whether it would be helpful cushioning the ball or not really. I only put stuff between the powder and patch when I'm hunting as I want to keep the lube out of powder. I normally have the barrel and patch lubed up pretty good, as it might have to stay that way for some time during hunting season. I use a different liquid lube when target shooting as it doesn't stay sitting on top of the powder long at all.
 
Never had a problem dropping anything with my loads in the .62,
Cv9lStYl.jpg
 
JRM,
I am assuming that was out of your smoothbore.
One thing I haven't tried yet is a wad over the powder and a PRB.
I will give that a go!
I even punched some out of leather per LeLoup's preference to try

Yup! My .62 fowler! I use felt wads dampened with moose juice. I used to use a lard type lube but ran out. SO to keep them from smoldering I wet them with moose juice. I have seen no difference when shooting between the type of lube they have.
I think they help seal the bore a little better increasing velocity just a touch. I also don't have issues with fowling. I can shoot 20+ shots without swabbing on the trail walk.
 
Originally smoothbores were only loaded using wads, they did not use a patched ball.
Now fearch for Tow, and fome old Saddle pierce. No Wadding lies fo clofe, or drives fo fierce.
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2015/09/now-fearch-for-tow-and-fome-old-saddle_14.html

Now then Le-Loupe,

I sent a photo remember, (In another thread) of patches and stuff from a 1500's German engraving.
Not getting on your case, and No, I don't use patches , but just to remind you that "never " and "Always" are not good terms for us to use. :)

All the best,
Richard.
 
If there is evidence of patched balls in smoothbores used in the 18th-century colonies I haven't seen it.

Spence
 
Me either. The 18th century accounts I have seen concerning patching related to rifled bores and the patches purpose of imparting spin in them.
 
This is all very true friends.
I remember this same conversation on several forums, and it always tends to end the same.
Many people tend to think they have discovered something new. There is little that is new inside of traditional stuff and has not been thought of before. I would imagine anything we can think of has been done at some point.

I would think, that as rifles became increasingly common, those with SBs would watch the loading procedure and try the same thing. I know I did, way before i read anything on internet forums. But i'm an experimenter. Most innovations started with some sort of example that sparked an idea. Remind me to tell you about loading blocks sometime..:) The Caveat is not using a modern "example"

Not everything was documented. Its quite possible that people found no value in patching a SB and as such lost interest. We must bear in mind, that with a few exceptions, Most people regarded FLs as a tool and did not revolve their lives around talking about them. They did what worked for them and forgot about it.

I have seemed to notice a bit of difference with a patched ball, but not enough to use it in common day to day shooting. I admit i do little competition stuff, so really not been too motivated, and since, have gone to buckshot pretty much.

Documents are funny stuff. Don't fall into that pit. Not many documents about wrapping the handle of a hammer with grip tape either, but we know it was commonly done before rubber handles.

This said... What do you all think about the theory of "roughing" the ball for accuracy ? That is making dimples on it like a golf ball. This i have NOT tried. (Did Golf balls of 1700s have dimples ?)

((Update))
Apparently not....http://www.scottishgolfhistory.org/origin-of-golf-terms/golf-ball-feathery-gutty-haskell/

Which lends back to the question ? Roughing a ball for accuracy or distance ?
 
Last edited:
The roughing it, or chewedballs is known from the past. Today it’s done rolling between two rasp as dentists don’t recommend chewing an metal, and lead can be worse for your body then good tasting food.
I’ve not tried it but watching folks who have tried it seem to get 0 improvement from it.
There is a letter from early 19th century referencing PRB in smoothie for HBC. I think that anyone who shot a rifle or was around rifle shooters may have tried it. We do have to remember that even by the AWI rifles were still few and far between
 
I've seen some limited testing of chewed ball vs. smooth ball, but it all seems to be at 50 yards, which does not tell much. As someone on this forum said, "you could wrap a rock in a leaf and get a good 50 yard group", or something like that. It would take a lot of testing at 50, 70, 80, 90 and 100 yards to show a difference, if any. Also a ton of other variables to sort out, different thickness patches, no patch, different size balls, and on and on. Powder charges. One would have to test each powder charge with different size balls, chewed and smooth, thick, thin, no patch, it would be quite a project. To really round it out, one would want to repeat such a/each test with a number of different firearms. !!!! I mean, finding out a specific, individual gun was more accurate with a chewed ball, of a specific diameter, with or without a patch, or un-chewed, with a specific powder charge, might be the reverse of another, different gun.
 
I have used wasp nest as a buffer between the powder and patch while hunting too assure the powder staying dry.

I also believe that it helps seal the bore better than just a patch alone, which I “think” will create more pressure in the barrel meaning more muzzle velocity.

I have done no official testing too confirm this, but the gun seems too shoot a flater trajectory ...
 
Back
Top