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Shot pouch

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Rickey Brown

40 Cal.
Joined
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I made this pouch to carry small game shot for my Fusil. It is 3 Oz leather molded around the stopper/measure and I filled the body with shot to mold it to shape. Sewn with natural hemp thread. The stopper is 1" hardwood dowel drilled and dremeled to hold my 80 gr. measure of shot.
CRW_0689_zpsb5bc70d8.jpg

I know this next one is out of focus but you can see the molded spout and the stopper/measure
CRW_0690_zps536e6191.jpg
 
Looks like a winner to me!

I'm fond of small shot flasks like this, learning that a whole pound of shot doesn't fill a space any bigger than an average lemon, translating to a whole lot of shooting for very little extra space and weight.

It's a subtle distinction, but that "slow" taper from the flask body into the neck, along with the larger neck/stopper/measure will prevent shot bridging, even with larger shot. If the transition from body to neck is too abrupt or the neck too small, bridging will make you nuts.

Well done. :thumbsup:
 
One thing to kinda watch, now that I reread and see you used 3 oz leather. In my experience it's just a wee bit soft or thin, and over time you'll see it start to flex just below the spout. Not an issue when the flask is full, but after rattling around in your shooting bag with less shot for a few months or years, it will eventually start to fold there. No functional problems as a result, but a little disconcerting. I've since gone to 4-5 oz and eliminated the "problem," even it's really not a problem.
 
This is actually 3-4 oz and remains quite hard after molding. I don't oil it only use wax. I have made ball bags from it and they hold up well
 
Probably depends on how hard it's used. My hunts are often long, pretty rough and tumble in pretty rough and tumble terrain. Our ptarmigan are ruffed grouse size and the limit is 20/day. There's no closed season and no bag limit on 3-5# snowshoe hare, so hunts can be long and loads can get pretty heavy. Gear takes a beating under such hard use.
 
Very nice!!! You are obviously fortunate to have a sewing machine that will sew leather. If I were to make one, I'd have to use an awl and punch my holes by hand. I'd be proud to have a shot pouch like yours any day. :thumbsup:
 
hand sewn. I do have a single and 4 prong stitching punch though. I can't afford a leather sewing machine but thanks for the compliment
 
Hand sewn??? I am astonished!! The spacing is perfect. You, sir, are a craftsman and an artist. :hatsoff:
 
Bill - FWIW in the leather trades getting a machine to sew as well as a good hand stitcher does is the ultimate goal for the manufacturer of said machines.

Very nice Henry and if the neck does ever begin to flex I'd suggest gluing/sewing another piece over the outside on both sides to stiffen it up.
 
LaBonte said:
Very nice Henry and if the neck does ever begin to flex I'd suggest gluing/sewing another piece over the outside on both sides to stiffen it up.

Excellent! I know you were talking to Henry, but since we share a name I'm going to steal it right out from under him. :rotf:
 
No problemo Bear - info offered is for everyone to abscond with :thumbsup:

When I do it I make it with a Vee or U shape extending part way won the bag body so it won't fold at where the neck narrows. Also I often use deer or elk rawhide instead of leather - a "trick" for using rawhide - super glue it in place. I seal the leather with a good wood finish to waterproof the area to be glued over (Varathane no odor satin finish works well without the stink) the cut your rawhide to shape and lightly add super glue - medium thick works good without so much runs. Sew around the outer edges that cover the seam. Afterwards seal the rawhide with the same Varathane or if a more traditional finish is desired use real Spar varnish. By sealing the rawhide it will never get wet and slimey feeling.
 
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