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Shellac help?

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Brokennock

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So, I didn't get a response to the p.m. I sent someone about this question, I guess I'll put it out there for everyone to chime in on, and watch the thread drift. Maybe I'll get some on topic, accurate answers.

Where should I look to obtain "real shellac?" What am I looking for to know it is "real?"

There were some replies to some old posts on finishing hat blanks that suggested using shellac to stiffen and help weatherproof the felt. But, the emphasis seemed to be on the shellac being, "real shellac." I'm assuming this means I can't get it at Home Depot or Lowes, or some other big box store.


Thank you for any help provided.
 
Depending on how you want to use this as a finish, especially if you will top coat over it, you need to get dewaxed shellac. I believe all the zinser in cans are dewaxed.
 
Thank you all. Seeing as I am not using this on wood, but on felt, I'm wondering if I should use a little extra denatured alcohol for more evaporation and thinner coats. I don't want to create a helmet.
 
For best results, get a good grade of dried shellac flakes, like J.E. Moser's. Shellac is best when freshly made from flakes. Add alcohol and let the flakes dissolve. You can stir to speed the process. It takes about 24 hrs. to dissolve. Mix it according to directions on container, It can be made thicker, for a heavier application, or thinner, for a smoother application (needing more coats). The orange flakes are what you see on most antique funiture, The de waxed super blonde will be water clear and make a water resistant finish. (The wax in shellac is what makes the ring you see on furniture when a wet glass is set upon it) Shellac will adhere over oil, alcohol, or water based stains.
 
Youve gotten some good responses and I’d like to throw in some info FWIW. You can order flake from Lee Valley in a number of tints. Super blond is just about clear. The “thickness” of your shellac is based on the “cut” or flake to alcohol ratio. More alcohol, thinner coating (the alcohol evaporates). I prefer many thin coats. Wax is your enemy in shellac so,look for dewaxed flake. You can buy OTC dewaxed shellac from the hardware store if you don’t want to spend the $ on flake. Zinser Bullseye makes a canned product called “Seal Coat”. It is a light cut blonde dewaxed shellac. Their regular shellac has wax. Hope this helps.
 
Since this is a shellac thread let me inject:
I did a corrosion test with a variety of different materials and, with high carbon steel, after 6 months of exposure to humid out-door air super blonde shellac gave me the best corrosion protection.

For a hat blank I would recommend using a very, very thin mixture, you can easily add more, but it is harder to take it out! Try a 1%-2% cut (1-2 grams of shellac in 98-99 grams of alcohol).
 
For just putting on a hat, the ordinary Zinsser shellac from the hardware store will be fine, ready to go. You just brush it on. The hat will suck it up like a sponge... actually it will suck it up much more than a sponge. It's not that delicate or difficult an operation. Just brush a little on, let it dry (which doesn't take that long) and see what it feels like. If you want it stiffer, add some more. If you get it too stiff (not likely), pour some alcohol on it and wash some of it out.

The orange color won't matter on a black felt hat. It might tint a taupe or silverbelly...
 
Yes. But I love to work with orange. Mixing it from flakes gives you all the control over the product.
Product. Hmmm. Want some good reading? Look up where shellac comes from.
i Just looked it up. Really interesting and definitely unusual. Of course I then had to look up Lac Bug. 😀
 

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