Sheath Protection

[Marc Adamchek]

A funny thing hit me today - I'm a nut about greasing/oiling my leather shooting bags, ball bags, etc etc. BUT I never bother protecting my many knife sheaths. Kinda kooky, eh?

So what do you guys do? Do you use modern grease or go traditional with tallow, beeswax, etc. I say traditional, but I really don't know the historically correct thing to use, I just assumed the originals used what they had.

What say ye?

 

[BrownBear]

For several years I've been using Mink Oil Grease from Track of the Wolf. Same as I use for patch lube, as a matter of fact. So far it has worked well in our wet climate, and that's saying something. Works great on shooting bags, too.

 

[roger fisher]

I have been useing "old zip" patch grease from Dixie gun works. It is a mixture of mutton tallow and bees wax. I am very happy with the results I get.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Montana Pitch Blend. I use it on all my leather goods. It's a blend of pine pitch, beeswax and mink oil - no idea if it is authentic but it works great.

 

[Moose Guide]

Neats foot oil

 

[Scharms]

Mink oil (paste), bought it at the local farm supply store in their boot isle. :thumbsup:

 

[necchi]

Sno-Seal

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have so many knives and sheaths and have tried so many things, I don't have a single reccomendation. I have used Sno Seal, Mink Oil, Neatsfoot oil and other stuff.
If you want to keep yer leather stiff, do not use a liquid like Neatsfoot oil or mineral oil.

 

[Marc Adamchek]

Yes indeed, Rifleman, I guess that's the main reason I never treated any of my sheaths, I was afraid I'd "soften" them and they wouldn't house and/or hold the blade as well as they would if I just leaved them alone.

But maybe just a little beeswax/tallow mix rubbed in will protect them enough without making them go limp.

 

[BrownBear]

...without making them go limp.

I kinda wrestled with this because they just rot away or crack without some kind of treatment and repeated wetting/drying cycles.

The answer for me appears to be simply using a heavier leather than before. Aw shucks, more leatherwork to do... :rotf:

I've been trying 4-5 oz and that's fine for smaller knives. I have a bigger knife that inspires me to try 8-9 oz. Along with a welt, the heavier leather is stiff enough and plenty of protection even if a little soft. Same principle for pistol holsters.

 

[gordy]

This is just my take on this subject , but in general , the old timers did much more skinning and cutting with their edged tools. So grease from animal fats got pretty well spread around their leather gear. I don,t think too many of them did much more then wipe their hands on their britches before caseing their tools. Even their guns would be handled with animal fat and grease from their hands. We , on the other hand , in many cases tend to keep our guns and gearin a more pristine condition. Few of us handle and use our gear other then a few hunts and Rondys/Treks in an entire year.
Years ago , I used to work with horses twitching logs . The harness had to be cleaned and oiled because the acids from their sweat caused damage to the leather if left go too long without cleaning .saddle soap and a little neetsfoot oil semed to work as well as anything to maintain the leather.

:thumbsup:

 

[Moose Guide]

If you don't over oil, Neats Foot Oil won't soften the leather, I have been using it on my saddles and other leather gear for near 40 years.

 

[SpottedBull]

bear grease is the only thing I ever put on my leather gear...leather will just suck it right in if it needs it.

 

[stormcrow]

Obenauf's LP. All natural ingredients - best stuff around for leather of all kinds.

 

[boar]

I use groundhog&deer tallow :thumbsup: Dilly

 

[Chris Hayes]

I use Redwing mink oil paste. I put it on my gas stove and heat it till it almost smokes. I then apply it with a natural bristle brush. Let it cool then wipe with a cloth diaper. Love the luster it gives.

 

[tonybones]

Marc, wild Indian that I am, several of my sheaths are one-piece buffalo and elk rawhide, and I use rendered bear fat I got from Moscow Hide & Furs, maybe it was Eidenes. Sometimes they have "scrorched" bear fat, that means it is a slight amber color, and at a reduced price. The thing with bear fat is you need to use only enough to penetrate a little, if you use a lot, like one rawhide sheath of mine I used too much on, you'll end up tanning the thing, and too much bear fat will definitely make a sheath floppy, but bear fat does the job the rest do, and is very authentic if you are that far into it.

Bones

 

[crockett]

A 50/50 mixture of neatsfoot oil and carauba wax applied light/moderately to surface.

 

[Bear Rider]

Second on that Obenauf's LP. I treat everything from my hat(the leather one) to my boots with it.

 

[Rickey Brown]

I use a similar thing, neatsfoot oil and atom wax I get from Jantz