Screw size

[Crow#21957]

Anyone know what the hammer screw size is on a large Siler percussion lock?
Thanks

 

[ronaldrothb49]

That would be an 8 x 32

 

[Crow#21957]

The 8x32 only goes in about 2 1/2 threads although the hole is deeper. It looks like the hole has two threads the bigger up by the head and smaller on down to the bottom. Seems like many years ago a well known shop owner explained why they did that. Am I dreaming or was that true.

 

[Crow#21957]

I know the tumblers are hardened and was wandering if I could drill the hole one size up and recap? I don't want to harden a new one since I do not know how. Could I just heat it with my acety/oxy torch to a red color and plunge it into a oil bath. If so what type oil?
Thanks

 

[SDSmlf]

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but you can get the correct tumbler screw with the 8-32 thread for a large Siler percussion lock for $5 from TOW.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/0/1/LOCK-SL-FK-TX

 

[Crow#21957]

Thanks. I tried a 8/32went 2 /12 threads and stopped. Soon as I get home I will ck everything again. The owner of a very well known shop told me yesterday they were 6/40. Alright someone is Fibbing LOL

 

[SDSmlf]

Thanks. I tried a 8/32went 2 /12 threads and stopped. Soon as I get home I will ck everything again. The owner of a very well known shop told me yesterday they were 6/40. Alright someone is Fibbing LOL

Don’t believe anyone is fibbing, however there is confusion. Are you sure you have a large Siler lock? The small Siler locks use a 6-40 tumbler screw. It is also available at TOW.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/0/1/LOCK-SS-FK-TXA 6-40 screw will about drop in to an 8-32 threaded hole, while an 8-32 just won’t go in to a 6-40. You need to find a way to measure what you have. Until then, it’s a guess.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

A large Siler is 5 1/4" long a Small Siler is 4 3/4". Also a lot of Silers were sold as kits. the person putting it together should have used a bottoming tap to cut the threads. If they used the more commonly available Taper Tap then the first 10 threads in the hole will not be completely cut. You can't redrill or recut the threads on a hardened part. you would have to heat it to red then let it air cool back to dead soft before you could do either. Then you would have to reharden and retemper it. You can get a finished tumbler from Muzzleloaders builder supply or from Chambers Flintlocks for $25.00

 

[Crow#21957]

Just joking on fibbing.ok measured both locks 5 1/4 in both. The 8/32 is just right in the one lock had to clean threads very little by running tap in with FIngers. And measured how far it went in. The other lock takes 5/40 also cleaned threads with tap and fingers. These are pre chambers silers before he started reworking them. Even pics show the diff screw size. Forget the numbers on top left pic. I was just showing the screw heads

 

[Crow#21957]

Any ideas maybe a kit from who knows put together. Still doesn't make since.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

Any ideas maybe a kit from who knows put together. Still doesn't make since.

I would say somebody screwed up. Put my first siler kit together in the early 80's. Just put the last one I had left together for the current rifle I'm working on. They have always called for 8X32 on large and 6X40 on the small. I bought a finished improved tumbler and sear from Muzzleloading Builders Supply to try on this one. works great, the sear barley moves when you cock it. This was on an old Siler kit, bought a couple from Chambers right after he took over Siler and this was the last one I had left.

 

[arjay]

The 8x32 only goes in about 2 1/2 threads although the hole is deeper. It looks like the hole has two threads the bigger up by the head and smaller on down to the bottom. Seems like many years ago a well known shop owner explained why they did that. Am I dreaming or was that true.

Sounds like an M4 thread

 

[ZUG]

Pre Chamber Silers (made by Bud Siler) were all kit locks and assembled by anyone who purchased one. The screws were all threaded that came with the kit. The tumbler had to be threaded so if the person who assembled the kit did not fully thread the tumbler then hardened it then that's your answer. To fix this correctly you need to anneal the tumbler and then re-thread it to depth and then reharden it. You said that you got a O/A torch then this would be a quick fix be sure to use a neutral flame! MAPP gas will work also you just have to use some fire bricks to contain the heat during the heating process also use a warm canola oil (about 125 degrees) for your oil quench bath. During the hardening process use a magnet to see where the part becomes non-magnetic then heat it a bit more and quickly quench in the warm canola oil. Once it has cooled enough to touch without getting burned (warm) put it into a heated oven (kitchen oven) set at 425-450 degrees and let it soak for one hour then shut off the oven and let it cool to room temperature. Wire wheel any heat scale off of it and oil it - you should be good to go.

 

[Pete G]

Are you sure it’s a Siler? Some Davis locks are 5-40.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Davis made thier molds from siler parts and sold those locks as Siler locks. The parts are not easily interchangeable due to being castings of castings.