Rusted Parts (Screws) on Siler Lock

[ky_man]

Haven't shot the pistol I made late last year for a few months. Surprise, suprise! The cock jaw screw and the tumbler screw were completely rusted.

I couldn't move them no way, no how at first. Doused with WD-40, let sit, then attacked the lock with a vice and large screwdriver (filed tip) with a cheater. Finally got the screws to break loose, but I buggered 'em. I guess TOTW carries replacement screws for the small Siler?

This was the first attempt for me at browning the lock. I thought I neutralized all the acid, but I guess not. What can I do to prevent the lock parts rusting? I kept the pistol oiled in my gun safe (pretty dry, dessicant packs). That's why I think it was residual acid left over from the LMF browning solution. The inner workings of the lock were fine, except for a small ring of rust around the tumbler hole.

I think I'm going to have to sand/file off the browning, then try again...

 

[paulvallandigham]

dpolish off the brown ring where the tumbler comes through the lockplate. Then oil well.

You didn't neutralize the parts after browning properly, and that is the problem. Use soap and water, and a good tooth brush to scrub the surface after browning to remove all acids.Rinse well. Then dry the parts, and then Oil them. Use a good gun oil, and not WD40. Wd40 displaces water, but if you already dried the parts, there isn't any water to displace! WD40 has a nasty habit of leaving a gummy residue. More WD40 acts as a solvent, but then you are married to that darn stuff. Use a good gun oil, like Hoppes, or Rem oil, on your gun parts. YOu can use a rubbing alcohol to dissolve the residue, and clean out the WD40. If a gun has been stored for any length of time, ALWAYS first clean the gun with alcohol to remove oils and oil residues. Then dry and re-oil checking all screws and moving parts to see that they function properly. Then put the gun in a case, and head out to the range or field.

 

[Zonie]

I believe you can use baking soda to neutrilize the acids that are in most browning solutions.

It almost sounds like maybe you browned the parts without taking them apart? That could explain how the threads and tumbler continued to rust?

Anyway, yes every part of the Siler lock (both large and small) are available from TOTW, Dixie etc.

Good luck on your next try.
zonie

 

[ky_man]

Zonie,

I browned the parts individually. As far as I can remember, I then let them set for a few days, then soaked them overnight in baking soda/water mix. Rinsed, dried, sprayed w/WD-40 and then wiped down the parts.

I re-assembled the lock and then oiled it.

Thanks Paul, next time, I'll try the toothbrush scrub method.

 

[44-henry]

Not that is going to help you with your immediate problem, but just a tip. I always caseharden my lock parts, screws included (springs excluded). This goes a long ways towards preventing wear and also helps to prevent marred screwheads, though if the screwdriver is properly fitted to the slot in the screw, this rarely happens anyways.

 

[George Holton]

PB blaster, while not PC works wonderous well

 

[ky_man]

I believe the screw heads are case hardened??? Can anyone verify this? If not, that's a good suggestion, I do have a can of Kasenit. What is your process for small parts, is it any different than hardening a frizzen?

I do have a screwdriver to fit, it was just so rusted that even with maximum leverage (vice, cheater, etc.) it took me a few tries to get the screw out. The heads aren't totally stripped, but they look bad.

Is PB blaster more effective than WD-40?

Thanks everyone for the tips.

 

[Zonie]

WD40 does little or nothing to protect steel parts from rust. It does displace water (hence its name "Water Displacement 40".

A good light weight gun oil should protect the steel after the WD40 evaporates or is wiped off of the parts.

As for screw heads, I don't know of any muzzleloading style of screw that are case hardened or even made out of a hardenable steel.
That is why I always treat the working screws on the guns I make with Kasenit to harden them.

To use Kasenit on the screw heads, just get a pair of pliers, a propane torch, a bowl of water and follow the instructions that came with it.
zonie

 

[Jim-Iowa]

I believe the screw heads are case hardened??? Can anyone verify this? If not, that's a good suggestion, I do have a can of Kasenit. What is your process for small parts, is it any different than hardening a frizzen?

I do have a screwdriver to fit, it was just so rusted that even with maximum leverage (vice, cheater, etc.) it took me a few tries to get the screw out. The heads aren't totally stripped, but they look bad.

Is PB blaster more effective than WD-40?

Thanks everyone for the tips.

In my experience with tough, nearly impossible, soaked in Iowa's salted roads for months or even years experience in automotive applications PB Blaster is "by far better" than WD40 for loosening bolts and screws.
A small hammer tapping on the wrench or screwdriver goes a long ways too. On the tough ones I will tap while turning to break up the rust in the threads.