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Rifle Antique - ing

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Jim C

45 Cal.
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I'm interested in having my Lyman GPR antiqued. Barrel, lock, and furniture plumb browned and so forth. I used to know a guy that did this down in Georgia, but have lost contact with him. Does anyone know of a good outfit that performs this service.......Thanks, Jim
 
This process takes a while but,

loan it to your brother-in-law for a year.

When you get it back you'll swear the rifle will look like it is 150 years old.

The other option is to check out our Builders Bench and age it yourself.
You'll get a lot of advice on what to do.
 
Do it yourself. It takes no more skill than rolling up your sleeves and following directions. I've used both Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown, and also the Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown.

I like the Birchwood Casey better, for ease of application. The LMF takes more time between applications, and looks like manure until you get numerous applications done. It is great for bluing small parts (put in boiling water to convert from brown to deep blue).
 
Buddy brings his adult nephew to ML camp without a gun. Borrow my spare. A week after season closes, I ask for rifle back. They had discharged it once, didn't clean it & then put it behind the seat of a pu ruck. Truck warmed up every day from below freezing and then cooled off at night.

Rifle looked like a 18th Century derelict. Guy said it had been shot only once so there was no need to clean it.

Fake it up yourself -- do not loan it someone for antiquing.
 
LOL!.......Thanks Zoni, as you know I'm new here and it didn't even occur to me to go to the "builders" section. Since I made this post I have been researching doing it myself. I know I can handle it. I will definitely do that....Thanks again!
 
Thanks AzbpBurner......I have researched both and I think I'll go with the BC as well.
 
I went with LMF. Ive found in my one tome that as long as you can o a continuous line, youre fine. However the nipple is giving me issues and therefore there is splotchiness
 
I checked it out, read through the entire process. Maybe it was just the guy giving the instructions, but he made it sound fairly difficult and drawn out. Another thing. Ive also read some who say it doesn't matter much when it comes to polishing the metal, and then some who tend to highly polish. So I don't really know what to believe on that part.
 
IMO, polishing does have a definite effect if we are talking about browning steel or metal resisting rust.

If you plan on doing any rust browning using one of the solutions like Laurel Mountain, it works best if the barrel finish is not smoother than a 320 grit sandpaper would leave.

If the metal is finished with a 400 or finer grit or polished before applying the solution it will only "bite" into the metal in some areas and not at all in others resulting in a very mottled finish.
These true rust browns usually roughen the surface so even if one can apply enough coats to get a full coverage, much of the polishing will be destroyed.

Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown on the other hand doesn't care how polished the metal is so long as it is free of all oils (including your fingerprints). Plum Brown only lightly coats the surface so a polished steel surface will become a polished brown surface.

Before you jump towards the Plum Brown, it has its problems too.

While it works fine on smaller parts like a lock plate or a steel trigger guard or butt plate it is difficult to get an even, uniform color without applying at least 4 coats.
It is a hot process where the metal must be heated up to 250-300 degrees F before it can be applied.

If the temperature is less than 250 degrees F. it will form copper plating that must be sanded off before any browning will happen.
If the temperature is greater than 300 degrees F. it will splatter, bubble and dry leaving brown spots and crusts that must be washed off before continuing.

It also gives off some really bad smelling fumes while it boils off which from the smell of them can't be good for a persons body.

As for the polished brown surface Plum Brown can leave, to most gun enthusiasts it looks rather phony. Its smooth brown appearance isn't something one would see on a original gun in very good condition and it definitely isn't something that would naturally happen on a old Antiqued gun.

On the other hand, if the metal surface was left rather rough, Plum Brown can look quite good (if enough coats are applied).

Getting back to "polished" steel, if a barrel is sanded to lets say, a 220 grit condition and left alone it will begin to develop light corrosion that will eventually turn into hard brown rust. This might take 100 years but it will happen.

If the metal surface is highly polished it will pretty much remain a bright shiny surface for years if no one handles it. (In addition to oils, bare skin will leave a mild acid that will attack bare steel, leaving dark fingerprints. Waxing can keep this from happening.).
 
Thanks again Zoni.....Also, what about the color case hardening on the lock plate? I can't see blue remover taking that off. Will it affect the browning process and cause it to make the lock plate look different from the rest of the metal once it's finished?
 
I believe that the color on those locks is easily removed with any type of blue remover. If I am not mistaken the plate is hardened and then colored to look like color case hardening.
 
If i seriously didnt have that nipple. Or whatever itis called muxxlr loading breech? It would be far better. I have pictures in another thread
I also did use a thick rag and not small cotton pads. When i do my long barrel here in a bit, in going to use cotton pads. Just working for 12 days straight for 12 hours each so i cant get around to it yet.

But im going to use proper cotton pads and create a slightly different setup. I do waste alot of water, but just do it on a day you want to take alot of showers, not baths, i found baths dont create as much steam.

I am interested in LMF Browning on the flintlock/percussion parts along with removing the bluing. My browned barrel doesnt look so nice to factory bluing. Im also worried i wont be able to wipe in between small parts along the flintlock plate .
 

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