Question on staining stocks

[threepdr]

I ususally stain maple stocks with a chemical type stain such at chromium trioxide (sic). Howerver a freind recently suggest Laural Mountain stains, so I though I would give it a try. Bad move.

The color is nice, but the stain emphasizes all the inperfections in the wood, and my sanding. I'm now going to have to go back and resand some areas because of this. There are two small areas that I'm goning to have to sand hard to get the inmprefections out. It will be down to bare wood again in those areas.

My question is: Will I be able to restain the stock all over and cover the bare areas without them having a drastically different shade? Or can I restain with my old reliable chormium trioxide, which is water based, over the Laural Mountain stain?

Thanks!

 

[Roy]

Use the same stain as before and blend it in to match the surounding area. I like to stain a piece to show areas that need to be sanded, its better than seeing them after the finish is on.

 

[Vaino]

Some builders lightly stain the stock to show the imperfections and then re-stain w/ the same color or a different one. Re-stain the complete stock w/ the LMF stain and even out w/ alcohol. Don't revert back to the Cr03....I don't think it will cover uniformly. Have been using LMF stains for a long while and think they're the best on the market........Fred

 

[dlemaster]

The way I understand it Cr03 will turn green it's just a matter of time. I found out about it after I bought some from Dixie Gun Works, I've never even opened it up.

Regards, Dave

 

[threepdr]

Thanks guys. I restain with the Laural Mountain as you suggest.

In regards to the Cr03 turning green, I've never had that problem. I've done about 10 stocks with it and never saw a hint of green.

Thanks again

 

[bob1961]

did ya try to make yer own stain out of vinager with differnert metals....thats what i did to the scrapes of stock.................bob

 

[anvil1231]

How do you make the vinagar stains, anvil

 

[boar]

Anvil You take the biger plastic flogers coffee can put 2 cups vingar give or take add old barb wire, make sure wire is covered, punch holes in lid and let it work. Mine been going 6 mos. had to add vingar once. You can use differnt metals. There are posts in here about it, do a search. Dilly

 

Anvil, first off welcome to the Forum. To make vinegar stain is as simple as dropping some iron into venegar and letting it sit for a spell, straining off the slurry, applying to the wood, letting dry, then applying heat to get yer color. Best iron to use is old rusty nails, or barbed wire, or steel wool that has been washed to remove the oil. If you do a search on the forum for "vinegar stain" you should find a number of listings about it. Bill

 

[anvil1231]

Thanks for the Welcome Bill and thank you the information I want to try some stain like that on hawk hafts. anvil

 

[George F.]

I guess you found out that the better the stock prepreation PRIOR to staining is directly proportional to the finished product. I would recommend sanding the stock down to at least a 600 grit paper, in various grits like 150,240,320,500.600. And get every nook and cranny, it takes time,sore fingers, and alot of patience, to go back over it again is twice as comsuming. I believe it's a good idea to stain your stock with a diluted stain to show up some of the problem areas. I don't recommend chromium trioxide as a stain, because over time it has turned some stocks greenish. Alot of makers use Nitrate of iron ( Nitric acid with disolved iron in it). Also Laurel Mountain Stains are very popular. Robert Ditchburn ( a riflesmith who has been marketing his stain for a while now). I have had great results with his stain.The acid stains HAVE to be PROPERLY nuetralized, if not they WILL rust barrels, locks,triggers,screws,and corrode brass parts as well.
PLEASE do not be tempted to rush the finishing process. We all have a tendency to rush some through it...fight the urge, allow your finishing oils to dry before recoating, not a slight tack to the touch..DRY!! THEN A LIGHT SANDING WITH A FINISHING PAPER LIKE 500 grit.Repeat until you have a good build,like 8-10 coats of oil ( if that's what your using. Hope this helped someone. ....George F.

 

[Zonie]

I would suggest that you stay with the Laurel Mountain stain however you should use one of the features of these alcohol based stains to your advantage. The advantage is they can be thinned with alcohol.

This thinning allows you to thin the stain and to restain only the area that you have resanded.
This can be done many times, each coat getting darker than the previous coat. Of course you have to allow each coat to dry and then wet the area to see what the final color will look like.

As the color approaches the surrounding color, rub the new wet stain into the old stained area to blend it in.

 

[flashpanner]

I hae heard that these stains, LMF, fade over time is that your experience?

 

[Flintandsteel]

flash,
I've been using LMF stains for over 12 years. Never seen one fade. Unlike some other stains, like AF, it doesn't get darker either.

 

[flashpanner]

Good to know, thanks!