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Pyrodex RS vs Black Powder FFg

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Mean Gene said:
Some day HLS ban black powder and substitutes will be all there is.

I guess you could try making your own!
No thanks!....That would be a felony. The quickest way to loose your gun rights is to become a felon.
 
Maybe one of these locations are closer to you.
http://cityfinder.net/Bass Pro Shop_Dubuque_Iowa.htm

I'd call first and speak to the manager of the store or the head of the gun department. See if they carry it. Because some are located in Chicago I would want to check on that before driving all that distance.

Real BP is a pleasure to shoot. I shoot percussion and mostly a flintlock. I've had issues with Pyrodex. I will stick with real BP. Besides, the fake stuff won't work in my flintlock. :td:
 
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Have to resurrect this old thread. I read every word and it was very interesting.

My history: I bought my first muzzie, a naughty modern inline T/C, three years ago. Shot Pyro pellets at first - 100gr. Little fouling, but cleaning was just unreal. I mean I have never scrubbed anything so hard in my life and still there would be more fouling in the bore, after only 30 shots or so.

I switched to Blackhorn 209 in that gun. WAY better - no fouling, easy cleaning! But of course this is a weapon using magnum 209 primers.

I subsequently bought a '58 Navy revolver and a gorgeous Pedersoli side-by-side. Both cap guns obviously will not shoot 209. So I bought a very large load of Pyro P and Pyro RS.

After reading this I kind of wish I'd bought Goex FFg and FFFg, for the easier cleaning.

I may do so and compare.
 
If you do get real black powder you'll find that it does foul the barrel more than the synthetic powders but in a cap & ball revolver it will not really be noticed while your shooting and reloading.
If your side-by-side is a smoothbore being loaded with shot, you won't notice much difference there either.
With a patched roundball, you might find that you need to run a jag with a damp patch down the bore to wipe the fouling off. (Don't pump the damp patch up and down the bore. Just push it to the bottom of the bore, let it rest for 5-10 seconds and then pull it back out. That will give the moisture the patch left behind as it was being pushed down the bore, a chance to soak into the fouling. When you pull the patched jag back out of the bore, the soft fouling will come along with it.)

On a definite positive side, you'll also find that where the synthetic powders are often slow to fire, the real black powder will fire almost instantly. Enough so that it is often fairly easy to notice.
 
I shot Pyrodex P 105 in my cap gun .54 for 20yrs ( clover leafs at 25yrds good groups at 100) then I moved to a state that real black powder wasn't illegal, I now shoot swiss 3f I mostly shoot flinters now. fast and cleaner
 
I read here in this forum that 1858 shooters got 20 cylinders out of Pyro before cleaning but only a few with "real" BP.

That was one reason I bought Pyro.

But after a bit of searching I have found Goex both FFF and FF online and ordered 10 lb of both. So I can compare them in the wheelgun and scattergun.

My rifle is an inline and will continue to shoot 209.

(But, I tell you, I long for a long-barreled percussion rifle!)
 
In my limited experience real black powder leaves a lot of fouling but the fouling is very easy to clean with water. Getting a rifle clean after shooting real BP and a patched ball is much easier than getting a modern rifle clean of copper fouling. Obviously cleaning the BP muzzloader is much more important but cleaning the actual BP residue is very easy.
 
The amount of fouling also has to do with how you load. Sometimes more powder burns better and some times a little less. I've never shot the pellets so I don't know about them.
 

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