• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

protecting bare steel

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 15, 2011
Messages
199
Reaction score
11
Location
N.E. Wisconsin
I usually brown all my parts on my builds but would like to build one or two (or more) leaving the lock and barrel left alone. What do you use to protect your flintlocks with on locks and barrels left in the white/bare steel?
I know some like the metal parts to patina. I like keeping things looking new. Just oil and or wax?
I've heard some use boiled linseed oil or penetrol.
Any suggestions?
 
Oil the wee out of it and keep it in the gun safe.

If you wanna shoot it, Lauer Duracoat satin clear.

Where you really need to worry is below the stock line. RIG doesn't work. JPW doesn't work. Rubbed-back Oxpho Blue seems to work well, oddly.

If anyone else has better ideas for a magic rustproofing product, I'm all ears, too. Maybe CorrosionX?
 
Not many people leave high carbon steel firearms in the white because it rusts so easily. ”Rust” is another word for oxidize. Oxidize is is exactly what happens when something burns (just really fast oxidizing). The air and water vapor will rust metal unless you live in a desert, or have a dehumidifier in your safe, and even there it will still rust (just very slowly). Preventing oxygen from contacting the steel is the only way to stop rust. A layer of oil will do it.
That said, in all actuality browning or bluing is a very poor way to protect metal. Water on these finishes will still rust steel, so they require maintenance. Cerakote or a hot powder coating is a much better rust preventative on steel.

Problem is that for many of us a blued or browned firearm (centuries old technology) is beautiful, and cerakote looks like hot manure. Leaving your rifle in the white will mean you have to maintain and care for it a lot more than if it had a protective coating to prevent it from oxidizing. Most people don’t want that hassle, and the ones who really don’t want any maintenance use modern coatings. A white rifle won’t age well unless it is meticulously maintained. I have rifles in the back of safes I haven’t seen in years, but they’re blue, not in white, and oiled well before they’re put away.
You can certainly leave a rifle in the white, but you’ll have to pay a lot of attention to it, and if you don’t you shouldnt be surprised if the steel ends up rusty and pitted, even if you just store it.
 
I would clean it then wipe it with BLO - then wipe all the BLO off. Then I would let it dry a couple of days and then I would oil it and keep it oiled.
Eventually it will probably get a patina unless you regularly polish it but I think this is the best youll do.

If you try to leave a noticeable coat of BLO on it will look bad in time after it dries, like a bad coat of varnish. You just want the BLO on there to fill the microscopic pores in the metal.
 
Rub a very thin coat of RIG on it and let it set for a couple of days and then you can just oil it once in awhile.

The RIG will dry out a little and leave a very thin coat and lasts for a long time, you can refresh it once in awhile as needed.

The lock on the Jaeger below was built and left in the white back in the 80's and RIG and Ballistol is all that have ever been used on it.

Jaeger.JPG
 
Actually, I don’t know why I didn’t think of it, but all the guns in The Smithsonian and The Colt Museum are coated with microcrystalline wax. In fact, almost anything that can oxidize and/or deteriorate is coated in the stuff. It’s absolutely neutral. They use it to preserve photographs it’s so neutral, and it forms an invisible vapor barrier. It would keep your white gun looking white.
Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml) https://a.co/d/h7aP298
 
Might keep in mind that British Rev. War soldiers kept their weapons "armoury brite," by polishing with a compound to include brick dust. So they were using an abrasive to remove the oxidized surface.
 
My guns in the military were POSs too. I didn’t know any better at the time. If it only has to last you the war they get the hell beat out of them.
 
Wow tenngun, that is mighty pretty looking. I think a lot prettier than ”armory bright”. Though, it would give me heart palpitations to be caught out in the rain hunting with that beauty. I also think those “French Blue” guns with the bluing rubbed back almost to white can be gorgeous.
 
The level of polish also makes a HUGE difference. Take a couple parts, polish one really well with 320-400 maybe even 600 and another (better yet the other end of the same piece) and polish it to 1200-2000 and put it out in the weather with nothing on them. You will see a massive difference in how fast they corrode and an even bigger difference in how fast they clean up and look good again.

High polish and Ren wax works very well.
 
...

Where you really need to worry is below the stock line.
Amen. It's what goes on where you can't see it that you should watch out for. You're in for total disassembly once a year, or two depending on how and where used and where kept.

The level of polish also makes a HUGE difference.
Double amen. The higher the level of polish, the longer bare steel will go before rusting. You've noticed how rust always start in scratches? No scratches, no rust. Well, not for a long time, anyway.
 
The level of polish also makes a HUGE difference. Take a couple parts, polish one really well with 320-400 maybe even 600 and another (better yet the other end of the same piece) and polish it to 1200-2000 and put it out in the weather with nothing on them. You will see a massive difference in how fast they corrode and an even bigger difference in how fast they clean up and look good again.

High polish and Ren wax works very well.
Agree completely.
 
Any suggestions?
Yeah, study the drill guides of the 18th century British soldier.
They kept those Bess bright.
Learn how to polish in your spare time.
So, before rust browning/bluing does anyone hit their barrel and hardware with a polishing ball on their drill with some Mothers?
nope. it ain't rocket science.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top