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pietta revolver =shooters revolver

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Almost pulled the trigger on buying a Pietta 51 steel frame from Sportmens Warehouse last week for 229.00 and five percent off for a veterans discount. Got to look it over good and it was well fit up and timed. Thought, I already have four cap-n-ball revolvers and I sure don't need another.
Was quite proud of myself for walking away but after a week of thinking on it I just had to go back and take another look. It was gone! :rotf: Mike D.
 
You don't know the 1/2 of it. My wife has bought me the Continental( a South Bend Cannon Works scale cannon). She doesn't mind an of the guns I have bought. The gun that never was (.44 1841 brass confederate with the 5" barrel) is her favorite to fire. She bulled it from 25' first time she shot it. With the smaller grips, and shorter barrel it's just right for her smaller hands. She has spotted me cash on more than one occasion when I was short when I was buying a "cash" gun.
 
Man, you married "Wonder Woman"! I kid folks about waiting for an attractive gal that uses a bit of Hopp's 9 on her wrists and behind each ear.
Surely she'll be the gun lovers catch of the century! :rotf:
 
My wife is a true gem. She spots good guns before I do. While we were at the muzzle shoot she spotted an original fowling piece and called me over to see it. Then a little later she spotted the Pedersoli Pennsylvania Frontier. Both guns went home with us. Think I'll keep her.
 
Other then the silver trigger guard how else can you tell if its a shooter model?

I have one that has a brass frame and it shoots pretty darn good.

I have a shooter and ive looked at the rifeling and i cant tell the difference in the progressive twist and the regular twist.

If i was to slug them and mark the rod as i pushed it threw how would i tell that way?
 
Not sure if that'd help you tell. "Progressive Rifling" actually increases rate of twist from breech to muzzle. They don't say what it is, so I can only go with their description. Since the guns have taken at least two World Championships, it must work!
 
Look at the land width in the end of the forcing cone (breech end) and than again in the muzzle. With progressive rifling(gain twist) the lands get wider toward the muzzle.
Drive a ball or bullet in both ends of the barrel, pull and measure the lands which will be the grooves in the bullet and see if they are different width. That will tell you if you have a gain twist or not. Mike D.
 
Well some one told me i could mark the rod and as it twisted the rod would turn more revolutions per inch of travel or something like that.
 
That will be true but I think it may be hard to detect in that short of run and will have to be done from the muzzle so will be slowing down.
Get a tight fitting patch on a cleaning jag and mark a sharpy line about 2 inch in a straight line on the cleaning rod back about the barrel length and watch it as you feed the rod in from the muzzle. It will slow down if it is gain twist if you can keep the push in speed constant.
The most accurate way is with two bullets just started into both ends , pulled and measure the land width with calipers if they are different than the barrel has a gain twist.
As rotation pitch increases the lands grow wider as the grooves narrow toward the muzzle. This is true because the cutting hook is moving on an increasing helix angle thus decreasing its cross section of cut, although hard to envision it is indeed a fact.
This often is referred to as choke because it increases the bullets resistance as ever more lead is displaced as it moves up bore and yet has nothing to do with bore diameter. Mike D.
 
How do you insert a ball from the breech end on a remington.

Ive done it once but it wasnt easy.

I dont want to remove the barrel to do this either.
 
Remove the cylinder and put the barrel in a good vice with padded jaws muzzle down. I pad my vice jaws with thick wool inserts from Sorel boot paks and glue them to polycarbonate backing plates . Crank it down good and snug,drop a ball or bullet into the barrel forcing cone. Then find a short piece of hard wood board, place into the cylinder window on top the ball and strike along side the frame with a dead blow hammer on the board opposite the side your hand is on. A bullet will be better because a ball may not be big enough around to get into the barrel for a good land engravement.
Put a wood dowel in the muzzle and drive the bullet back out.
Now mount the revolver horizontally in the padded jaws and drive one into the muzzle. Carefully center a sheet rock screw in the middle , turn in a good ways and pull the ball out by clamping the screw head in the bare vice jaws and pulling the revolver away from it. These pull screws left in the ball/bullet are good handles when measuring. Mike D.
 
Yesterday at a gun show in Kalamazoo Mi I passed up a Pietta target model Remington. It just didn't speak to me at all. The guy wanted a huge princely sum of 135 bucks, including some accessories. flask, and a capper. It looked unused.
 
I sure like mine , it has been my most used revolver, even more than a ROA I picked up some years back.
That would have been a great deal in the condition you described. Mike D.
 
Yeah i would of jumped on that for that price he must not know what he had.

When i compare my shooter version to the others i have a few things i notice.

The hammer is made of a slightly harder steel, the trigger pull is slightly lighter with less creep a shoter break.

The cylinder uses slightly larger balls and it doesnt shave the lead off the chambers are beveled.

My shooter model didnt have a front dovetail sight but ide get the gun just for that reason if i were you.

I think pietta did all the little things to the shooter version we do to the cheaper ones after we get them. Opening the chambers mainly and fixing the trigger pull the progressive twist and front sight are just a bonus.
 
It's just that competitive shooting is the proving ground for accuracy potential and is the standard used to measure what is possible. Mike D.
 
Looking at mine again my cylinder is marked with a crown on it between one of the cylinders.

I think this is a way to tell if its a shooter
version.

The stamp isnt on the side of the cylinder its on the front between the chambers.
 
This is the only pietta i have that has marks on this part of hte cylinder.

ShooterIDmarks_zps0e3339fc.jpg
 
Hey you guys are making me want to go back and try to make a deal on the one I found,too many Holidays going around.
 
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