Pietta 1860 Army

[Ajgall]

I picked up this 1860 army for a great price. However, it looks like someone tried to beat wedge out with a pipe wrench and the barrel has been scratched up with either sandpaper or steel wool. I’m trying to decide whether to refinish, just leave it alone and shoot it as is, or strip the finish and give it an “antique” look. Any thoughts?

 

[wb78963]

if it woks properly, is in time etc. and the barrel and chambers are not ruined I would shoot it.
Strip it, clean it and shoot it. Call the damage "character".
At one time many years ago I had an 1851 Colt Hartford Navy that the barrel had been clamped in a vise. Looked awful, shot great.
"A gun is only new once" Mark Novak
Respectfully,
Bunk

 

[hawkeye2]

Originals often exhibit signs of abuse specially around the wedge. I would call that one a candidate for antiquing.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I wouldn't do anything to it and also think just shoot it. The bluing may have been removed by someone trying to get rid of some very light surface rust with steel wool. Adds character. Now you just have to think up a good story about how it got that way.

 

[sourdough]

What is the datecode?

 

[jonathan butcher]

I too would take advantage of its poor cosmetic condition to antique it. As a project it’s a lot of fun, and you’ll almost certainly end with something better.
Then shoot it!

 

[Bad Karma]

I wouldn't do anything to it and also think just shoot it. The bluing may have been removed by someone trying to get rid of some very light surface rust with steel wool. Adds character. Now you just have to think up a good story about how it got that way.

A friend of mine once AD’d a .45 through the headboard of his sainted grandmother’s antique bed. He asked for advice on repairing the damage and I told him I’d age the bullet hole and make up a story about granny catching grandpa in bed with a Cajun queen... he didn’t appreciate my suggestion. Or at least not enough to act on it.

 

[Ajgall]

What is the datecode?

If I’m looking at the right mark it’s BH which the Internet says is a 1996 model, but I’m not familiar with dating these.

 

[longcruise]

The wedge on those Pietta 1860s are difficult.

 

[user 48679]

I'd put a new wedge in it and antique it.

BTW - My Pietta 1860 is as accurate as my Ruger Old Army, and a lot sleeker...….

 

[longcruise]

I'd put a new wedge in it and antique it.

BTW - My Pietta 1860 is as accurate as my Ruger Old Army, and a lot sleeker...….

My Pietta 1860 accurate too but shoots very high and left.

 

[toot]

I think you did good.

 

[Treestalker]

You could go 'Southern Funky' and crudely carve the initials J.J. (Jesse James) in the grips along with several 'kill' notches cut into the bottom edge. Use it for a tack hammer, then drop it in the chicken yard after coating it in molasses and scratch feed, and finally dribble some corn squeezins on it and let it sit in the holster outside for a day or two. Wipe it down with a big chunk of fatback; It'll fit right in. And get better with age and buttermilk and cornbread dribbles.

 

[BullRunBear]

If it shoots well, I would leave it alone. I figure 'pretty' shows at the target.

Jeff

 

[sourdough]

If I’m looking at the right mark it’s BH which the Internet says is a 1996 model, but I’m not familiar with dating these.

That is the correct date for BH.

 

[wb78963]

I am puzzled by the remark about Pietta wedges. I have an embarrassing number of Pietta revolvers and all the wedges come out with a light tap with a small brass hammer and go in thumb tight. They can be set up like that by a competent gunsmith familiar with C&B guns. The operative words are COMPETENT and FAMILIAR.
Most of my Piettas are original snub nose and must be loaded off the gun, so tight wedges are not acceptable.
At least that is my experience.
Respectfully
Bunk

 

[M. De Land]

My 1860 Pietta was made in 95 and has had a lot of mods added to it . It shot pretty well so I never checked the bore until last night with a plug gauge. It still looks like new inside but I'm not happy with how it gauged out. It's not consistent being looser in the muzzle than the breech end and has a tight spot mid bore. I'm going to hand lap the barrel this week end and open up the chamber mouths by reaming or rotary lapping to match the groove diameter.
Having hand lapped quite a few barrels over many years it is amazing what it can do for accuracy at times if executed correctly.

 

[M. De Land]

I am puzzled by the remark about Pietta wedges. I have an embarrassing number of Pietta revolvers and all the wedges come out with a light tap with a small brass hammer and go in thumb tight. They can be set up like that by a competent gunsmith familiar with C&B guns. The operative words are COMPETENT and FAMILIAR.
Most of my Piettas are original snub nose and must be loaded off the gun, so tight wedges are not acceptable.
At least that is my experience.
Respectfully
Bunk

My factory wedge was soft as the barrel inprinted into it over some years of use. I made a new one of A-2 tool steel and that has worked out very well. The trigger on the same gun was also soft and would not hold a good edge when I reduced the sear engagement for a lighter pull. Made a new tool steel trigger and that solved the problem. I tried re-case hardening the original trigger several times and it still would not hold an edge. I could not infuse enough carbon into it to make it hard enough to hold the edge I wanted for some reason I never figured out.

 

[M. De Land]

My 1860 Pietta was made in 95 and has had a lot of mods added to it . It shot pretty well so I never checked the bore until last night with a plug gauge. It still looks like new inside but I'm not happy with how it gauged out. It's not consistent being looser in the muzzle than the breech end and has a tight spot mid bore. I'm going to hand lap the barrel this week end and open up the chamber mouths by reaming or rotary lapping to match the groove diameter.
Having hand lapped quite a few barrels over many years it is amazing what it can do for accuracy at times if executed correctly.

I finished lapping the 60 Pietta barrel today and it came out well. The bore finished out with some taper toward the muzzle which I always prefer and is .436 on the lands and .4458 in the groove. Started with 220 grit and finished with 400 which is about as far as is necessary with lead bullet barrel I've found. It has seven lands and grooves and is even twist with no gain as the originals were said to have. I had to cast two lapps with a grit recharge after every 50 cycles. I took 1000 passes with the two grits , 500 with each. The .436 plug gauge will slide right on through and the ..437 gauge will slide down by it's own weight to about an inch shy of the muzzle and stops dead for a perfect taper.
I plug gauged each chamber and they had .003 variance top to bottom so will have to build a reamer and rotary lap to bring them up to .446+. Here are some shots of the project and Powelly gauge use on uneven land count.
The first is a shot of the lap after it is charged.
When finished I put a .437 plug gauge in the breech and then muzzle to show the taper.
I'll need to make another reply to get all the photos up.

 

[M. De Land]

I finished lapping the 60 Pietta barrel today and it came out well. The bore finished out with some taper toward the muzzle which I always prefer and is .436 on the lands and .4458 in the groove. Started with 220 grit and finished with 400 which is about as far as is necessary with lead bullet barrel I've found. It has seven lands and grooves and is even twist with no gain as the originals were said to have. I had to cast two lapps with a grit recharge after every 50 cycles. I took 1000 passes with the two grits , 500 with each. The .436 plug gauge will slide right on through and the ..437 gauge will slide down by it's own weight to about an inch shy of the muzzle and stops dead for a perfect taper.
I plug gauged each chamber and they had .003 variance top to bottom so will have to build a reamer and rotary lap to bring them up to .446+. Here are some shots of the project and Powelly gauge use on uneven land count.
The first is a shot of the lap after it is charged.
When finished I put a .437 plug gauge in the breech and them muzzle to show the taper.
I'll need to make another reply to get all the photos up.

Here is the Powelly gauge and formula for running the numbers to accurately calculate the groove diameter for even and most odd number rifling.
Plug gauging the chamber mouths.