Pedersoli Kentucy Pistol Problem

[GregC]

Last week I posted about my pedersoli kentucky flint pistol and its terrible trigger. Well, I figured out my problem last night.

The trigger is actually hitting the back of the brass triggerguard which is causing the heavy pull.

Once it hits the trigger guard I have to really pull to trip the hammer. What can I do to fix this? Anybody ever heard of this?

 

[CaptainKirk]

I'm stumped. But I sure as hell hope you figure it out, as that was the next pistol I'd planned on buying... :idunno:

 

[ken.clements]

without picts its hard to say...could it be that the back of the trigger guard is bent, out of round?

 

[Rogue River]

Could the rear of the trigger plate be inletted too deep? If not that could the trigger itself be bent forward a little? :idunno:
Another thought maybe trigger plate is not inletted deep enough!

 

[Congress Own Regiment]

Pic would help us help you. with the information you have pasted along.
The trouble could be bent trigger guard. Or possibly the trigger plate is not secured to the pistol stock. or even the trigger pivoting pin is not pined right. There are a few other possibility. Has the trigger pull always been hard? Or has it developed over time?

 

[msuspartan]

My trigger has a 'curl' to it on the bottom of the actual trigger. Mine does not hit the guard at all. Something is bent.
If it is the trigger, if you or someone who is experienced in heating up metal could put a small curl on the bottom and curve the trigger a tad.

my 2p worth. :idunno:

Love my pistol though. Very good shooter.

Good call other responders!! :thumbsup:

Cheers, DonK

 

[Zonie]

The problem is that the trigger plate is not deep enough into the stock.
Because it is not deep enough, the trigger has to move rearward further to raise the trigger blade up to hit the sear arm.

To fix this you will need to remove the trigger guard and the trigger plate.

Ideally you would use a 1/4" wide chisel to scrape any stock finish off of the wood where the trigger plate rests. That may be enough to fix the problem.

If it doesn't, carefully remove about 1/64" of wood from both the front and rear surface that the trigger plate (not the trigger guard) rests.
That 1/64 is only .015 so think about a .015 thick patch when trying to estimate how much wood to remove.

After the wood is removed, reassemble the gun and give it a try. If the trigger still hits the trigger guard before the sear releases you will have to remove a little bit more wood like you did before.

If you don't like the idea of carving on your stocks wood, another more temporary fix would be to get a small piece of 1/64" thick brass or steel sheet metal and some epoxy glue.

Remove the lock from the stock and you will see the sear arm sticking out from the inner lock face like a sore thumb.

Cut a piece of the sheet metal so that it is about the length of that arm.
Bend it into a U that just fits over the arm and cut off any excess material leaving just the curved bottom part of the U.
Some of the sides of the U may be left but not much of them. You don't want them hitting the wood when the sear arm is raised by the trigger blade.

Clean the inside of the U and the outside of the sear arm with acetone, MEK, gasoline or denatured alcohol. You want to remove all traces of oil from it.

Mix up a very small amount of the epoxy and holding the lock upright, like it will be in the gun, coat the bottom of the sear arm with it.
Position the sheet metal U so the bottom of the U is at the bottom of the sear arm. (This is where the trigger blade hits to release the lock).

After the epoxy has hardened, oil the lock and reassemble the gun.

Either one of these fixes should solve your problem.