• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

patch lubing procedure

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Great discussion gentlemen, :hatsoff: thank you, I'll continue playing with some things and see what works. I was looking for some good ideas I appreciate the openness!
 
I use Stumpy's Moose Snot that I carry in a small rectangular tin box. It's about the consistency of shoe polish. I carry a strip of patching material and I will take it out and rub one side of the end of it in the Moose Snot until it wets it on the side I'm rubbing and starts to come through the side I'm pushing on. Then I drape the "dressed" side over the muzzle; start the ball to just below the muzzle and cut off the patch with my knife. There's never a question on whether or not I have good "patch coverage" with this method.

Using this method, I don't normally have to swab in between shots. If one shot is a bit tough to get down, I'll just use a little more Moose Snot on the next patch and it clears it right up. It works really well for me and I highly recommend it. I've used it in below °0 temps with no problems at all.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan
 
I usually use spit on the range too but when I use a lube, I put the patch on the lube and smear it around to coat the patch. As I pull the patch out of the lube container, I hold it against the edge so as I pull it out, I rake off the excess against the side of the container.
 
I've always just put the whole tin container of TOTW Mink Oil on a burner on low. When its rendered to liquid form I grab a bundle of 2-3 patches at a time with a tweezers and dunk then in the liquid. Let excess drip off, place on paper towel, and repeat. Do 30-50 at a time depending on what I expect to shoot volumiwise. When done just turn off heat, let lube resolidify, seal and its ready for next time. Its a heavily lubed patch but isn't hard tohandly or very messy. I store them in a film canister
 
I think Dutch Schultz has a very good answer for your question. Take a look at www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com
Dutch charges only $20 for his system and it is worth many times that amount. It is one heck of a bargain. It addresses far more accuracy questions than just lube. I have a copy and it is one of my black powder bibles.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
mnbearbaiter said:
I've always just put the whole tin container of TOTW Mink Oil on a burner on low. When its rendered to liquid form I grab a bundle of 2-3 patches at a time with a tweezers and dunk then in the liquid. Let excess drip off, place on paper towel, and repeat. Do 30-50 at a time depending on what I expect to shoot volumiwise. When done just turn off heat, let lube resolidify, seal and its ready for next time. Its a heavily lubed patch but isn't hard tohandly or very messy. I store them in a film canister

If it works great, seems VERY heavily lubed to me :idunno: If I shot that in most of my rifles I believe I would be skipping the rifling. As per above I use the dutch system and when I soak em in the solution I get two books, a base and a weight and simply drag the strip through (same angle etc) and thus they are about as evenly lubed as I have yet to figure out. My 2cents....carry on
 
I remember the old wringer washing machines as being the perfect way to wring out excess lubrication solution..
I haven't seen one one in maybe 35 years.
The whole concept was a method to lube each patching strip exactly the same as every other strip and to be in control of the degree of slickness..
Stripping the soaking material between thumb and forefinger with the intention of doing the same all the way seemed adequate for my purposes.

We are not performing brain surgery here.
The big surprise in all this, was to learn that "slicker is quicker" just doesn't work well here.A little resistance to hold the patched ball in place just a wee nanosecond seemed make an appreciable difference on target or possibly even Bambi.

Excuse typos, have trouble seeing the screen

Dutch
 
Back
Top