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Oiling Barrel after cleaning

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guess i'm the only rem oil user on here. been using it a long time without any issues.
 
:metoo: so yer not THE ONLY ONE. I alternate between rem oil, WD-40 and Barricade (which I just bought a few month back per the high praises of so many here). However I have no issue with rust here in AZ, humidity too low.
 
blackpowder62 said:
guess i'm the only rem oil user on here. been using it a long time without any issues.

I used rem oil as well for yrs, and it's okay, but in my experience after I would thoroughly clean my rifles I would always recheck a couple days or so later and I'd always, most of the time anyway, find a trace of rust on a clean white patch. But I would reapply and not find it to be a problem the next time I'd check after that. I tried Barricade for the first time about a month or so ago because I'd read here on the forum many different times about how good it is. Well, it is. Since I've been using it I have yet to find a trace of rust on a patch during a cleaning followup. Like I said, Rem oil is okay, but Barricade is much better. Hope this explanation helps.
 
I bought my first can of remoil when I bought my first bike from a paper route as a kid. I still own a can, it has silicone in it, and I only use it on special occasions because I do not know if the stuff they make today is as good as the stuff I bought decades ago.
 
I can't prove it but don't think it's as good. I use it at times but not in the bore.

Larry
 
It appears many of us find a bit of rust a few days after supposedly cleaning, drying and oiling our barrels. Question is why? Are we NOT drying them well enough? I would think that if the barrel was dry when the first coat of oil went in there could be no chance for rust to develop? So whats the answer?
 
I've had the exact same question since I started muzzleloading. A couple days after cleaning I'd pull out a slightly soiled patch and ask myself what I did wrong.

My best guess is that there's still a minuscule amount of moisture in the rifling. It is an enclosed place, after all. Next time I shoot and clean I'm trying a hair dryer. Bugs me to no end to see the least amount of crud
 
I blow both ways with an air compressor after I THINK it's dry. May not help but it's always pumped up and sitting there. I have heard of moisture in air tanks but haven't seen any yet. :)

Larry
 
Larry, have you tried using WD-40 to get out the last of the moisture after cleaning your gun? The darned stuff really works to get out the last traces of moisture. But, in my opinion, it isn't worth a manure as a rust preventer. After spraying your bore, you need to wipe it all out and then run a patch with something like Barricade on it. I have absolutely no rust problems with my guns. I have been using this technique for years on my guns and I can tell you that it works.
 
I've been using boiling water to clean with. It heats up the barrel to the point that I need to wrap a towel or pot holder around it to hold it in my hand. Supposedly the boiling water heats the inside of barrel to the point it drys itself.

I can tell you that 2 range sessions ago when I got home I was too lazy to boil water for cleaning. I used hot tap water. I washed and dried as I normally do. The barrel did not heat up anywhere near as much as with boiling water. I had no problem holding it in my bare hand. Ran a few clean patches down her to dry her out, oiled her and put her away. A couple days later I ran a clean patch down her again and there was a far amount of rust on the patch. Shocked me really.
I must have run another 8 patches with cleaner to get it all out.

After my last range sessions I was back to cleaning and rinsing with boiling water. After the cleaning and rinsing a few dry patches and a final oiling. I've checked her 2 times since and she is perfectly clean. Not the slightest trace of any rust.

So I'm sticking to the boiling water method.
 
Bill I have nothing against wd40 and use it sometimes. You are right about getting it wiped out after use. :)

Larry
 
Never had any rust in or on any of my muzzleloader rifle barrels, except once, and that was when I used hot water to clean one of my rifled muskets barrels.

About 5 minutes into the cleaning with hot water I noticed dark spots appearing around the muzzle area of the polished white steel barrel. It was oxidation and it took me hours with chrome polish to get rid of them. Who knew steel could oxidize this fast! :confused:

Since that my cleaning procedure consist of wiping the bore immediately after having finished firing when the fouling is still soft, spraying down WD40 and using the brass brush a couple of times.
At home I finish cleaning it with a tough denim patch and some oil. Thats it. The bore is mirror-clean and protected by oil.
I've been cleaning my rifles that way for many years and it works so well I see no reason to use any water at all.
 
:surrender: The name of WD 40 is "water displacement and it was 40 times before the product was usable. Also if water displacement then when freezing temps and water is displaced would water not freeze :doh:
 
Oil for rust prevention ? No. I use wd-40 to displace the last of the water and then I use RIG rust inhibiting grease. Wipe out with alcohol wet patch before loading the next day, week, month or year.

Denatured is best but any scotch, bourbon, vodka, rubbing or Rum will work fine. :v
 
I have seen a test where steel plates were put outside exposed to the elements for two weeks. One was covered with a layer of engine oil (I think it was 5W40), one with a layer of WD40, another one with grease and the last one was a control plate left outside without any protection at all.

Guess which plate showed the least oxidation?

The WD40 plate. :idunno:

The control plate was completely evenly oxidized to a bright orange color, the engine oil plate showed mild oxidation on several spots, the grease plate showed nearly as much oxidation as the control plate, the WD40 plates was nearly in perfect condition.

WD40 is what I use in pretty much all my guns and I've never had any rust issues. Many people say that stuff is way too ''volatile'' to be used as protective oil, but the truth is that stuff never vanishes completely, its just kind of dries.
 
larry wv said:
I blow both ways with an air compressor after I THINK it's dry. May not help but it's always pumped up and sitting there. I have heard of moisture in air tanks but haven't seen any yet. :)

Larry

In my experience Larry, compressed air always has a certain amount of water content even if it is minuscule and in vapor form. Compressed nitrogen is 100% H2O free and is what we use in the HVAC/refrigeration industry to purge refrigeration lines of all moisture content before charging the system with refrigerant prior to initial start up of new equipment because if there is enough water in the line to fit on the head of a straight pen it will turn the refrigerant acidic and burn up the equipment.
 
Loyalist Dave said:
I've always checked my rifle bores the day after and two days after cleaning. Sometimes I find some small rust on the first day, but so far on day two no worries.

LD
What do you use for a rust preventative Dave?
 
azmntman said:
It appears many of us find a bit of rust a few days after supposedly cleaning, drying and oiling our barrels. Question is why? Are we NOT drying them well enough? I would think that if the barrel was dry when the first coat of oil went in there could be no chance for rust to develop? So whats the answer?

So far I have used Barricade after cleaning on three different occasions, and have pulled back a snow white patch each time I follow up a day or so afterwards. I'm a real happy camper :grin:
 
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