• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Newbie question about a tight bore

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Maverick261

32 Cal
Joined
Feb 21, 2022
Messages
18
Reaction score
25
So I have an original 61 Springfield I haven't shot yet, I've checked the bore with an endoscope and it's in great shape. But when I use a jag with a small cotton patch on it, halfway down it gets noticabley tighter, it goes through but takes more force. It does this same thing when it gets a few inches from the breach as well. I believe I can still get a minie ball seated on powder, but will these tighter spots effect it or will it probably shoot past regardless of being a little tighter in spots? Thanks!
 
Does your endoscope show any “schmutz” in the tight spots?
 
Does your endoscope show any “schmutz” in the tight spots?
In the one halfway down the barrel it looks smooth just like the rest, so that ones strange. But the one near the breach has some pitting that I can only assume is from years of powder being ignited right in that spot. I've used a brass wire brush on a drill to get it smooth but it isn't perfect
 
I wouldn’t worry about the pitting at the breech, ‘cause the bullet doesn’t travel THROUGH that area. (Just keep it clean and oiled when stored.)

The spot “half way down” may be from a tiny dent on the OUTSIDE of the barrel . . . .UNDER the stock.

How ‘bout removing the barrel from the stock and looking for some defect on the barrel in that area?

Could be the barrel was dropped on something (or something dropped on it) while disassembled???
 
Last edited:
So I have an original 61 Springfield I haven't shot yet, I've checked the bore with an endoscope and it's in great shape. But when I use a jag with a small cotton patch on it, halfway down it gets noticabley tighter, it goes through but takes more force. It does this same thing when it gets a few inches from the breach as well. I believe I can still get a minie ball seated on powder, but will these tighter spots effect it or will it probably shoot past regardless of being a little tighter in spots? Thanks!

There is a wear pattern associated with these because the ramrods were steel and would wear on the rifling although it'd be odd to see this half way down.
 
There is a wear pattern associated with these because the ramrods were steel and would wear on the rifling although it'd be odd to see this half way down.
That makes sense. I'm not sure what this is about, it's just below the middle band. I just don't want a minie ball to get lodged in that spot as its firing and cause a bulge or something
 
That makes sense. I'm not sure what this is about, it's just below the middle band. I just don't want a minie ball to get lodged in that spot as its firing and cause a bulge or something
It won't. We shoot minies in competition in the North South Skirmish Association and many are from original rifles. To shoot minies, use pure lead, size to .001 under the bore, use real black powder, use a natural based lube.
 
That makes sense. I'm not sure what this is about, it's just below the middle band. I just don't want a minie ball to get lodged in that spot as its firing and cause a bulge or something
One thing that minie won’t do is get stuck in a tight spot when firing it. It might be hard fo get past the tight spot when loading though. I’d pull the barrel and go over it really well.
 
It won't. We shoot minies in competition in the North South Skirmish Association and many are from original rifles. To shoot minies, use pure lead, size to .001 under the bore, use real black powder, use a natural based lube.
I think you're right, it probably won't get stuck but here are 2 pictures I took. One is the smooth and the other is the tight spot, you can see there is some kind of pitting or buildup that's giving me the issue. I'm just gonna ram a ball down and cross my fingers I think
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20220227-172638.png
    Screenshot_20220227-172638.png
    548.3 KB · Views: 43
  • Screenshot_20220227-172628.png
    Screenshot_20220227-172628.png
    547.7 KB · Views: 41
OK, Mav . . . .

After viewing your picture of the “tight” spot, I’m seeing RUST and corrosion!

Were that barrel mine, I’d apply a brush wrapped in steel wool to the area . . . .and scrub!

Using a well worn shotgun brush (12 ga.) wrapped in 0000 steel wool . . .DRY at first . . . .then with oil.

Apply ONLY at the offending spot while dry . . . .then the entire bore WITH oil.

Although those Springfield musket barrels are relatively soft, have no fear of excessive abrasion with the wool, ‘cause today’s China-made #OOOO wool is manure! (it’s more ”powder-like“, rather than long strands.)

I’m thinking your barrel will clean up rather good!
 
OK, Mav . . . .

After viewing your picture of the “tight” spot, I’m seeing RUST and corrosion!

Were that barrel mine, I’d apply a brush wrapped in steel wool to the area . . . .and scrub!

Using a well worn shotgun brush (12 ga.) wrapped in 0000 steel wool . . .DRY at first . . . .then with oil.

Apply ONLY at the offending spot while dry . . . .then the entire bore WITH oil.

Although those Springfield musket barrels are relatively soft, have no fear of excessive abrasion with the wool, ‘cause today’s China-made #OOOO wool is manure! (it’s more ”powder-like“, rather than long strands.)

I’m thinking your barrel will clean up rather good!
Thank you very much Jim! This was exactly the type of advice I was looking for. I have the steel wool and a tight brush I'll use. I'll send an update after, thanks again
 
I used that method of cleaning up a bore years ago on my sons rifle.. It was purchased cheap and cleaned up.. Shot well after steel wool treatment.
 
. . . . . I have the steel wool and a tight brush I'll use. I'll send an update after, thanks again

NOT a tight brush!!

It may “stick” in the bore!!

Use a well worn brush that will allow the bristles to reverse in the bore!

The brush is actually only to make for a “binding” of the wool to allow vigorous “lapping” in the trouble area.
 
OK, Mav . . . .

After viewing your picture of the “tight” spot, I’m seeing RUST and corrosion!

Were that barrel mine, I’d apply a brush wrapped in steel wool to the area . . . .and scrub!

Using a well worn shotgun brush (12 ga.) wrapped in 0000 steel wool . . .DRY at first . . . .then with oil.

Apply ONLY at the offending spot while dry . . . .then the entire bore WITH oil.

Although those Springfield musket barrels are relatively soft, have no fear of excessive abrasion with the wool, ‘cause today’s China-made #OOOO wool is manure! (it’s more ”powder-like“, rather than long strands.)

I’m thinking your barrel will clean up rather good!
As a compliment to the above I would suggest a good soaking with evapo-rust before the OOOO steel wool to remove a significant amount of the surface rust, then the steel wool and another good shot with the evapo-rust to clean out the bottom of the pitting. The steel wool will polish the surface and edges of the pitting however it won’t actually remove the rust in the pitting. The evapo-rust will and it won’t hurt the bore.
Smoke
 
OK, Mav . . . .

After viewing your picture of the “tight” spot, I’m seeing RUST and corrosion!

Were that barrel mine, I’d apply a brush wrapped in steel wool to the area . . . .and scrub!

Using a well worn shotgun brush (12 ga.) wrapped in 0000 steel wool . . .DRY at first . . . .then with oil.

Apply ONLY at the offending spot while dry . . . .then the entire bore WITH oil.

Although those Springfield musket barrels are relatively soft, have no fear of excessive abrasion with the wool, ‘cause today’s China-made #OOOO wool is manure! (it’s more ”powder-like“, rather than long strands.)

I’m thinking your barrel will clean up rather good!

The problem is though..., does rust and corrosion cause the barrel to "tighten"?

OR does he have a ring or deposit of lead, left by the skirt of a minnie ball, that has been mashed down very thin over time BUT, is what is causing the constriction, and is also making it tough to get moisture and carbon out, thus also causing some rust? "Skirting" of minnies inside barrels was a known problem with the first designs.

I agree, that a brush wrapped in steel wool... I'd look at 3-0 or even 4-0 size wool (sometimes marked 000 and 0000), ... and scrubbing is the answer. I'd also get a jar of JB Bore Restore paste. I'd slather the steel wool with the JB Bore Restore paste, and have at that "tightening area" to dislodge what I bet is a thin lead deposit along with rust.

LD
 

Latest posts

Back
Top