New GPR

[F.G. Ford]

I am not a Lyman rep.but I must say that the Lyman GPR is the best bang for your buck out there.
They look good, shoot great, last forever, no problems.
What more can you ask?
I have two! :redface:
Best regards!
Fred

 

[SgtMaj65]

:thumbsup: Only had mine for 10 days and I agree. Got 5 coats of Tru-Oil on the stock now and I like the way it looks. Now, gonna shoot the heck out of it.

 

[SgtMaj65]

:hatsoff: thanks

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

I put Tru-Oil on my GPR stock, too. Turned out well!

 

[SgtMaj65]

:thumbsup: I'll probably put one more coat on it, maybe two. A little goes a long way with that stuff. Much easier to use than plain old boiled linseed oil and the drying time is way faster with the Tru-Oil.

 

[BigErn]

Does the Tru-oil make it darker?
Ernie

 

[Zonie]

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is a light golden color but the color adds almost nothing to change the color of the wood.
The "wetness" of a oil will darken wood all by itself.

That said, any oil will darken a freshly sanded or "raw" piece of wood.
This also applies to a piece of wood that has been freshly stained with a water or alcohol based stain (or Aqua Fortis).

A similar darkness on a piece of fresh or stained wood can be seen if the surface of the wood is dampened with water.

That's why I recommend that before staining a piece of unfinished or stained wood the builder should dampen the wood with water and then take a look at its color and darkness. If it looks good, then proceed with the oiling.
If it is too light or it isn't the color the person wants, only then should they consider staining it.

 

[SgtMaj65]

My GPR was pretty dark right out of the box, and after 6 coats of Tru-Oil, does seem a tiny bit darker, but I think it's just in my mind because the stock has a nice satin finish ”” not too shiny but still a subtle sheen. The Tru-Oil really brings out the beauty of the oil-finished European walnut. I'm impressed with how it's turned out. I'm glad I went with the Tru-Oil and not the boiled linseed oil, simply because it dries much faster and you can put on really thin coats. And, the Tru-Oil has linseed oil in it, which I have always liked as a wood finish.

 

[SgtMaj65]

Zonie, thanks for the advice on the Tru-Oil. My GPR really is a beautiful firearm now. :hatsoff:
And, you were right ... it takes quite a bit of rubbing, but it was sure worth the effort.

 

[Oregononeshot]

Great shooting! I got my GPR in January, and yep it was recalled! To bad to because it was shooting golf ball size groups at 50 yards, I hope the new one is just as accurate. Great guns!

 

[SgtMaj65]

thanks :hatsoff: :thumbsup:

 

[SgtMaj65]

Compare this photo after 6 coats of Tru-Oil, opposed to the first photo in the original post, which was right out of the box. Even though the lighting is different, the walnut grain really stands out in second photo. The lighting in both photos gave a reddish tint, but it's really a fairly dark brown.

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[budcatoe]

There was mention of locks on flintlocks having stamped engraving. I bought my left hand percussion .54 cal. GPR in 1998 and it has the stamped engraving but the lock does have some case coloring also. I have to admit that I also like the plain case colored lock a little better.

 

[SgtMaj65]

Does the Tru-oil make it darker?
Ernie

Here's a better idea of the Tru-Oil, with flat outside lighting.

 

[SgtMaj65]

One thing I've learned about shooting the GPR is you'd best learn right away to hold that curved butt just right. I was used to 40-plus years of shooting the flat butt of an 1853 .58 Enfield and a T/C .50 Renegade. Don't have to take much thinking to hold it just right on the shoulder. But the GPR, I've been nipped a couple of times not taking pains to shoulder it correctly. Still getting used to it, but it is an outstanding shooter, particularly now that I'm using Olde Eynsford ff. I don't have a single thing to say bad about this rifle.