• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Moose Milk ?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

410-er

50 Cal.
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,126
Reaction score
7
Going to give "Stumpkiller's Moose Milk" a try.My question is I have mixed the milk,poured a small amount in a bowl,soaked my patches and left them dry.When I go to use them do I use them like this or add a drop to the center of the patch and send the ball home?
 
I store mine wrapped in wax paper (or a Bagies) and they stay pretty moist until I add a roll to my hunting pouch. In the pouch I carry them in a waxed buckskin bag. Sometimes, when they've spent a week in a loading block, I add a drop or two of moose milk to refresh them.

It's important to dry them lying flat on wax paper or plastic so all the lube doesn't run to the bottom of the strip from gravity.
 
After they dry might keep them in a film canister.Over nite to dry sound good?Playing with also plain lard as a lube along with straight olive oil.
 
I make my patches from 7 parts water and 1 part water soluable oil. AKA Dutch Schultz dry patches. They store well for over a year in my possibles bag in a leather pouch. I only use real Moose milk (the stuff with cleaners) for cleaning. My patches appear very dry all the time but they load easy and shoot well.
 
Krag said:
I make my patches from 7 parts water and 1 part water soluable oil. AKA Dutch Schultz dry patches.

Usually, people use some sort of cloth to make their patches out of. :shocked2: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Sorry....I coudln't resist. :grin:
 
Left myself open for that one! Actually for the "cloth part" I've found a couple of brands of cleaning patches that measure about 2" square and when really compressed hard between the jaws of a vernier caliper measure .010. So I soak them in the 7:1 mix and lay them flat on a board to dry. Even tho they feel very dry to the touch, they load easy and I trim them at the muzzle with a patch knife.
 
Actually, much of the modern water soluble oil has been changed in recent years, so Dutch is now suggesting Ballistol as a substitute for his dry patch method.

I write to him at times and he is well. I intend to give the Ballistol method a try, but I am also gathering mink oil from various sources to test as well.

CS
 
A friend of mine gave me some Ballistol and it looks like a very good product to me. Instead of the final swabbing with WD-40 that Dutch recommended, I used the Ballistol this year. Cleaned my gun with Moose Milk and gave it a final swabbing with Ballistol in December. Checked it the other day and the patches came out clean. I think I'll continue to use the Ballistol instead of the WD because WD seems to leave a little bit of a funny residue that takes several patches to clean out. With the Ballistol it was just a couple of patches.
 
I find that alcohol will cut the Ballistol quickly.

I once got some rust with Ballistol and did not know why. It only happened once, but it spooked me. I went back to Rig oil.

CS
 
When i used the dry patch method at a 7 to 1 it was accurate.I used the napa cutting oil and found that patches stored over a month or so were no good.When shot they would tear up and burn.Could not hit nuthin.If they were kept fresh they worked good.The cutting oil would break the patch material down over time it seemed.
Ive got some strips soaked in Stumpys stuff drying now,about ready for the second soak.
My question is will they hold up better over time?Im hopeing the castor oil isnt near as hard on a patch as the cutting oil was.
Stumpy have you had any blown patches that were several months old?
Will be using wally world pillow tick,figuare on working up a hunten load somewares from 70gr to 100gr of 3f.
Might be a spell for i try this,would feel better knowing the patch material in the bag isnt slowly rotting away :haha:
 
buckknife said:
... used the napa cutting oil and found that patches stored over a month or so were no good.
Wow, I have some that I just last weekend (in the primitive biathlon shoots) that I had stored in ziplock bags from last March and they worked fine. In fact, from that same strip, I was able to shoot and recover the same patch 5 times until I tired of that exercise ...
 
Stumpy have you had any blown patches that were several months old?

Yes, but that was with a 0.010" patch after 13 or 14 unswabbed shots. RiverRat saw it fall in a woods walk and brought it back. That was from one of the balls that had been in the small block I hook on my horn strap. Probably tore it while ramming it down the fouled bore.

I've never had a 0.018" patch fail and I have some of those that are over a year old now. They are stored in Baggies. The castor does not seem to attack cotton at all.
 
I think this is why Dutch dosnt recomend it any more.Perhaps the Balistol is better.I think it was the bevel brothers who had a artical on this same thing.
 
Back
Top