Melting lead

[pooch156]

I don't recall the exact temp but it's something like 700 degrees give or take a little. Also alloyed lead actually melts at a slightly lower temp.

I use a PID with my LEE 20lb. pot. I keep the temp at 630° F.

 

[Griz44Mag]

I use a PID with my LEE 20lb. pot. I keep the temp at 630° F.

Is your PID a relay output or a thysistor variable voltage type?
Brand and source?

 

[pooch156]

Both actually. It has it's own relay which in turn triggers a SSR relay to send power to the pot. The SSR can be triggered with 5 to 32 volts. The PID can operate on up to 220v. I have since forgotten what the low end minimum power is. I've built about a dozen of these for friends over on Cast Bullet Assoc. Forum. Attached are pictures of one in progress of being built.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Both actually. It has it's own relay which in turn triggers a SSR relay to send power to the pot. The SSR can be triggered with 5 to 32 volts. The PID can operate on up to 220v. I have since forgotten what the low end minimum power is. I've built about a dozen of these for friends over on Cast Bullet Assoc. Forum. Attached are pictures of one in progress of being built.

10-4. Just curious.
I built one around an Allen Bradley controller - the output is a variable thyristor instead of an SSR and is proportionally responsive to the input probe resistance. The closer to the set temp it gets the lower the output voltage to the load. Output voltage varies (non stepped) from 0 to 120 (line source) It keeps a very even temp (+/-) .3 degrees on my Lubrisizer. Probably overkill but the controller was a salvage from a dye chem mixing cabinet we replaced. For my lead pot I use a Johnson A419 temp controller. it's a (O-I) output so it keeps the temp +/- about 5 degrees, which is just fine for lead. I like the digital probe temp readouts that you get with digital controllers. You always know where you are.

 

[Frontier's]

welp, the lead pile is now sitting on the floor in 1lb and 2lb ingots! 600lbs of lead processed and that aluminum pot was washed and put back in the neighbors camper without a scratch on it

 

[JCKelly]

"Hard" lead for modern bullets is alloyed with antimony, a better (Harder) alloy has some tin in it.
See decent modern soft-cover books on casting bullets, maybe just reloading.

If you watch an ingot of your scrap lead freeze slowly, you may see some crystals form in the last stuff to freeze (center of the puddle).

Zink doesn't dissolve much in lead, it is not used as a means of making lead castings harder.

Jim Kelly, P.I.T.A. metallurgist.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Also started with a coleman stove and a $2 pot for goodwill. Gas was too costly. Bought a Lee 20lb top pour, and never looked back.

 

[Griz44Mag]

"Hard" lead for modern bullets is alloyed with antimony, a better (Harder) alloy has some tin in it.
See decent modern soft-cover books on casting bullets, maybe just reloading.

If you watch an ingot of your scrap lead freeze slowly, you may see some crystals form in the last stuff to freeze (center of the puddle).

Zink doesn't dissolve much in lead, it is not used as a means of making lead castings harder.

Jim Kelly, P.I.T.A. metallurgist.

To get really hard lead for a K31 I used 1.5% silver. It worked great and helped keep the bullet from fracturing.
The only drawback was having to use an oxygen boosted blast furnace to get the initial melt to accept the silver.
Every time I have run up against Zinc - it has caused any castings to be irregular and grainy looking.
Zinc has a higher melting point than lead and I think it cools and starts to solidify before the lead in the alloy causing pure havoc in the cooling process. It also seems to cause mold sticking issues. For all casters, make sure you don't get any zinc in your alloy...
I have used zinc-lead alloys for casting fishing weights where finish and consistent weight did not matter.

 

[Runewolf1973]

I plan on getting a Lee production pot. I don't really want to use a cast iron pot because if you get the lead too hot, it can start to fume....or at least that's what I've read.

 

[clarksvillejoe]

Lee production is what I use, don't care for the bottom pour. I ladle into moulds. Cast hundreds of both RB and unmentionables.

 

[Griz44Mag]

I smelt in a large cast iron dutch oven.
I cast from a Lee bottom pour and have for many many years.

I plan on getting a Lee production pot. I don't really want to use a cast iron pot because if you get the lead too hot, it can start to fume....or at least that's what I've read.

Don't spend too much time worrying about lead fumes. The lead would have to reach blast furnace temps to ever get to the fuming point.
Before lead could ever get hot enough to fume - it will be glowing red and would actually boil. And that's far beyond what you could reach with most methods of heating lead.
The Lee pots - regardless of which one you choose - will provide you with a lifetime of service if you take proper care of it.
Take your time and enjoy casting. I have never seen casting as work of any kind, but just another facet of a very rewarding hobby.

 

[pooch156]

Also started with a coleman stove and a $2 pot for goodwill. Gas was too costly. Bought a Lee 20lb top pour, and never looked back.

I have both 10 lb. & 20 lb. LEE bottom pour pots. The 10 lb. I've had for 20 years & replaced the heating element about five years ago. I've had the 20 lb. pot for about ten years. Both are money well spent! I cast for my Flintlocks, Modern Firearms and yes, sinkers for fishing!