Lyman GPR Sear & Hammer

[Gonetocamp]

Has anyone cut a secondary angle on the GPR sear nose as is done on a 1911 pistol sear to eliminate creep?

Is there a trick to removing the hammer screw, or am I just not using enough muscle?

 

[Zonie]

Just my opinion but, the best plan of action when it comes to sear noses in a lock is, leave them alone.

Any small gain that may be made by removing material will weaken a already highly stressed area.

 

[Gonetocamp]

Thanks Zonie.

 

[BrownBear]

I've diddlyfinked around with Lyman triggers and adjustment a lot over the years. Best fix I've found is to say to heck with the original Lyman and install a Davis Deerslayer Trigger. Best $50 you'll ever spend. In my experience with my own GPR's and those of friends, 9 times out of 10 it's a straight drop-in. The one time it wasn't I had to shave about 3 molecules of wood off one side of the inlet for the trigger plate.

Just an unbelievably good trigger setup. If I ever buy another GPR, I'll install a Deerslayer before I even shoot it the first time.

 

[MSW]

never used one in a Lyman, but I put a Deerslayer in my Thomson Center and I agree that this is money sell spent!

 

[BrownBear]

I was more than a little pleased when I peeled one off a TC and tried it on the GPR. Davis at the time didn't say anything about GPR's, but they should have.

I especially like it for the un-set trigger pull. I hate to have to set a trigger for a decent pull when hunting conditions call for fast shots. And the un-set factory triggers on both GPRs TC Hawkens are rotten, at least all I've tried.

The unset Deerslayer is as crisp as you could hope for while breaking consistently at right around 3 pounds.

Even better, the set trigger itself is pushed well back and sharply curved while the front trigger is straight. None of the nonsense I've experienced pulling the wrong trigger at the wrong moment.

 

[Scota4570]

I have worked on a couple of Lyman GPRs. They are cast, rough and sloppy. Pretty sad as far as overall quality. The unset pulls were unusable. There is only so much that can be improved. IF it works properly and the set pull is good I'd leave it alone.

If really had the urge to mess around I might go there. I do not modify any angles. I polish the engaging surfaces with diamond stones. I only take sufficient material to just clean up the roughness, no more. To prevent breakage, I break the razor edge on the sear and tumbler with a 2000 grit lap, a single 6" stroke. Leave the springs alone until the very end. And then only very carefully with great consideration modify anything.

The set trigger mechanism is also a mess. I remove the roughness while retaining all original angles. The travel stops and spring tensions can be adjusted to work better.

If any of this is new to you or you have to improvise tools leave it alone. DO NOT use a Dremil tool on any trigger parts on any gun.