• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Lowest powder charge?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Norinco

50 Cal.
Joined
Aug 23, 2009
Messages
1,169
Reaction score
4
Hey guys. In a few days, I'll be introducing some people to shooting. For the cap and ball revolvers at our disposal, we plan on loading light target loads for them.

So what's the lowest amount of FFFG real blackpowder or Pyrodex P I can put into a Colt Navy, Colt Army, and a Remington New Model Army? We won't be using wads, so obviously it needs to be enough powder for the ball to contact it.

Thanks guys.
 
Norinco said:
Hey guys. In a few days, I'll be introducing some people to shooting. For the cap and ball revolvers at our disposal, we plan on loading light target loads for them.

So what's the lowest amount of FFFG real blackpowder or Pyrodex P I can put into a Colt Navy, Colt Army, and a Remington New Model Army? We won't be using wads, so obviously it needs to be enough powder for the ball to contact it.

Thanks guys.
I can answer you for the two that I own & shoot with my Eagle Scout: The 1860 Army will function with 20 grains (maybe a little less) and no wad with the ball. The '58 NMA may need a couple grains more depending upon the amount of rammer that goes down into each chamber. My '58's get hung-up on the metal loading lever itself so I use a wad with 28 grains of powder. If yours are like mine, and you want to compress the powder ever-so-slightly to make sure that the balls are in contact with the powder, I'd stick to 22 grains with the '58's. That cylinder will hold 35 grains plus the wonder-wad & ball no problem.

Dave

P.S.: You could try some cereal just under the balls to lighten the powder charge down to 15 grains in each of the .44's.
 
Thanks. Since there is no fire hazard, I may use TP or cotton as a wad then.
 
Is that the threshold where the ram can get the ball to compress the powder?

Thanks
 
I'm not sure, because I use max loads, and I don't load in the gun. I remove the cylinder and use a cylinder loader. It's faster.

I believe 15 gr for the Navy is what's recommended by the makers.

I tried 20gr in an 60 Colt to see what it would feel like. It must have worked ok, because I didn't have my cylinder loader at the time. I hadn't bought it yet. You can always use a wad if the load is too light, but I think it will be alright.
 
The Cabelas manual says 22. I normally use a full 24 grains. That's why I got confused about where the ram would bottom out with a ball and a low charge.
 
You should be safe with 15gr if Pietta says you can load lower loads.

I just know that 15gr in a .36 Navy is an easy shooting load.
 
I've shot 15 in my Pietta remmy .44 it loads fine and the ball will compress down to the powder. Its like shooting a pea-shooter. that would be good for beginners who may be afraid of the bang. You can always use a filler like cornmeal to get good compression with a small load like that.
 
Back
Top