Linseed oil

[osunut]

I recently bought a lyman great plains rifle and the stock was stained at the factory but there doesn't appear to be any kind of sealer over the stain. A friend suggested to rub linseed oil on it and that would seal it. What do you guys think?

 

[necchi]

There is a finish on it, it's just not a high shine.
Different folks like different levels of shean to their gun, it's up too you.
Down in the Craftsmen forum you can find several finishes and sealers (many with pic's) that are used. Linseed oil takes along time to dry between coats.

 

[token tory]

There may be some kind of finish on the wood already so you'd need to test whatever you used on an inconspicuous spot to check for compatibility whatever you used.
If you go with linseed oil try the boiled linseed oil as that type dries much faster.
Another possible "natural" finish is "Tung oil".
You could side step a little with something that looks correct even though I doubt it is. There is a product called "Old English Scratch cover" that is available from home improvement stores. It comes in a light & a dark & they can be mixed for in between colors. It dries fast, seals well & is not an artificial shiny finish when done.

 

[David W.]

I agree with linseed oil taking too long to dry. I have always used Watco Danish oil finish on wood with excellent results. I have also used, and like tung oil.

 

[osunut]

thanks for the responses. I guess I need to investigate further.

 

[kelleyjk]

Well yes, there is a finish on the GPR but its one of those stain and wipe all in one type products

I'd remove it with denatured alcohol and sand paper, replace with a good quality stain that penetrates and dries well then your oil finish of choice. If you dont want shine use a product like BC Stock Sheen to knock the gloss down

+1 on the "Tung Oil Finish" (not plain tung oil)
this stuff is great!

Next choice is Tru oil, (again its not pure linseed oil) its easy to use

not sure what the traditionalists want you to use I know for a fact Dan'l Boone didnt use Minwax but the Minwax Tung Oil Finish which I learned about here is better than anything else Ive used, not as easy to apply or buff as BC Tru Oil.

 

[jbtusa]

Be sure to use boiled linseed oil, not raw. BLO finishes are gorgeous because they luster, not shine like true oil. If you are willing to spend the time to hand rub BLO into a finish, you will be rewarded. BLO will dry hard but it takes time.

I have built 3 rifles using BLO and I wouldn't dream of using any other finish. Over the decades, after more applications, the finish on these rifles has become just truly gorgeous.

The GPR's are thirsty critters and the same about using BLO applies to them. My GPR looks beautiful now too after many BLO applications.

 

[rawhide]

I like to use true oil. works great and looks good.

 

[hunts4deer]

I have a Lyman GPR and have wiped it with Lindseed. It worked fine. Gives a good waterproofing seal to the stock, but it does dull with time. I just wipe with additional light coats if I want to bring back the luster.

 

[David W.]

I have a Lyman GPR and have wiped it with Lindseed. It worked fine. Gives a good waterproofing seal to the stock, but it does dull with time. I just wipe with additional light coats if I want to bring back the luster.

That's one of the reasons I like Watco Danish oil finish. It does not just rest on the surface, it soaks into the wood.

 

[Vaino]

My first LR build {1978} was "sealed" w/ BLO and after many, many days of drying in the sun, I really liked the warm, low lustre effect. Took it deer hunting and sat in the rain for a couple of hrs and the stock became a "gunky" mess which I continually wiped off until I was down to bare wood. The BLO hadn't penetrated the wood at all {very hard sugar maple} and after doing some research decided that most finishes on the market are better than BLO asre "weatherproofing" the stock and dry a lot faster. If there's already a finish on the stock, applying BLO doesn't accomplish anything because it'll just lay on top and never dry....Fred

 

[ebiggs1]

As along time woodworker, I would advise using almost anything besides linseed or boiled linseed oil.
Almost any finish you decide to use will require you remove what is on the rifle now. Not just linseed oil , but any finish is not going to look good or work well over another finish.
I like tung oil.

 

[osunut]

thanks

 

[token tory]

I'm not sure why you folks are having penetration issues with BLO, maybe the type of wood is part of the problem? Or is it too much oil & not enough grease (elbow grease that is) :rotf:

I've used both BLO & Tung oil & it depends on how shiny a finish I want which I'll use on a stock, & how many coats I'll apply.

I've never had a problem with BLO penetrating into Beech, birch, or walnut which is most of the wood I've treated. For a fast deep start to treating an untreated (or stripped) stock I dilute the first coat with 1:1 BLO & Alcohol (denatured) I find the thinning of the alcohol will help drive the BLO into the grain & It'll evaporate fairly fast leaving a deep base coat of BLO.

You absolutely have to get the wood & oil hot though, which is why it's called a "hand rubbed" finish as you'll do a lot of rubbing to get the heat & burnish you want. My favorite burnishing cloth is either burlap or hessian.

Apologies for the pic of a modern rifle hopefully it's OK to use this to show a good sheen on a hand-rubbed BLO stock. This is after about 35 coats BTW! :youcrazy:

 

[Tom Compton]

Another who likes Tung Oil.
TC

 

[jerrywh]

I now use permalyn and true oil for a filler coat. In the past I guess I have tried almost eveything. Tung oil makes a real pretty finish. I has a nice soft look. Some guys will put it down but I think it makes a pretty nice finish and it's easy to get. Everybody will give you a different answer on finishes. It is a very controversial subject. The only thing I use linseed oil for is sanding. I thin it and sand with it then wipe it off. It dries way too slow. I used it way back in the 60's and it used to take me 4 to 6 weeks to finish a gun with it. then it stays soft for years like gummy.

 

[kelleyjk]

I'm not sure why you folks are having penetration issues with BLO, maybe the type of wood is part of the problem? Or is it too much oil & not enough grease (elbow grease that is) :rotf:

Id bet they tried to use bol over an exsiting finish, some of which are petroleum based.

The wood on the recent GPRs is relatively porous and takes some patience to get their (Lymans) oil based stain finish off completely

 

[token tory]

I hadn't thought of that. You probably have it nailed. :surrender: :hatsoff:

 

[texcl]

BLO takes a lot longer to fully dry than products like tru-oil, if you don't remove the original finish it makes set up time even worse and I mean by alot. If you don't want to spend weeks on it, I would recomend tru-oil or it equiv.

 

[Twice boom]

In A. Donald Newell book on “gunstock finishing and care” he gives us several old time formulas for finishing gunstocks with linseed. I have used this one with very good success.
Alkanet root
Linseed oil.
Twelve drops of cobalt dryer from an eye dropper for the amount you will be using for one coat .
Hand rub finish then in the drying box over night. Good for the next coat by next morning.
I also did couple stocks with the sand in method.(my favorite) with the same formula .

Hi Jerry. Didn’t I meet you at the Louisville show several years back. I was with Jack Haugh .You are from Baker Oregon,no?

Twice.