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Lee REAL bullets

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Jeremy Bays

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OK, what is a Lee REAL bullet? Is it any better or worse in a simple CVA Flintlock?
I say a mold for a regular 250 grain bullet (.50 cal) and a mold for a 320 grain REAL bullet. Which one would you recommend?
Thanks
Jeremy
 
The Lee R.E.A.L. bullet is an acronym that stands for "rifling engraved at loading".
They are a conical bullet.

They are somewhat similar to the Thompson center Maxi-ball but are shorter and have more driving bands.

Some folks like them, I have not tried them.

What model CVA flintlock do you Have ?
 
Choice of mold is probably best decided by your twist rate.

The REAL can be very accurate in the right twist rifle.
 
OK, what is a Lee REAL bullet? Is it any better or worse in a simple CVA Flintlock?
I say a mold for a regular 250 grain bullet (.50 cal) and a mold for a 320 grain REAL bullet. Which one would you recommend?
Thanks
Jeremy

I have used them since they first came out. I have them in 45, 50 and 58 calibers. I'm going to buy a 54 soon since I picked a rifle in that caliber. I read an article in Guns & Ammo I think in the late 70's written by their BP editor Phil Spangenbaum(?). He said in testing them that for slow twist rifles go with the lighter weight offered. I have always gone with the lower weight even for 1in 48 twist rifles. I've never shot them in a fast twist rifle.I bought a 45 caliber 200 grain mold and have used it in my 45 CVA Kentucky rifle I built in 1980. And my CVA 45 Colonial pistol. It shoots great in both rifle and pistol and is very accurate. I shoot them a lot because you don't have to fool with a patch.To me the only downside is you have to make them. I'm not a fan of molding so I do at least 50 at a time. It helps if you have a very small scale like used on illegal pharmaceuticals. Any that not +/- a few grains go back in the pot. Good luck
 
Thank you for the information. I have a CVA Kentucky flintlock in 50 caliber (twist is 1:60), and a CVA Hawken in percussion (twist is 1:48).
Sounds like I would be better served with the 250 grain mold....yes/no? I think that is what is being said.
Thanks again
Jeremy
 
Yes, I would try the 250 grain bullet. Assuming you are casting, make sure you get really good mold fill out on the ones you keep and shoot. The problems I read about with REALs are often due to the biggest band being undersized. My rifles also really prefer an over powder wad when shooting conicals.
 
JB, the lower of the two weights is what was recommended for slow twist rifles.
brewer12345, brings up a two good points I forgot. 1, using an overpowder wad, I use a WonderWad. 2, the largest band must be larger than your bore. It is easy to check by holding the bullet upside down over your rifle muzzle. Good luck and have fun. Let us know your results.
 
Make sure to get felt wads too. Mine keyholed at 50 yds and shot about a foot left and several inches low. With a wad the next two were nearly touching and just under the bull. That’s when I decided to just buy a mold.

Mine (320 grn version) drops at 0.517” and Lyman states the grooves are roughly 0.520” so the wads will ensure the bore is sealed. I bought a used mold for the 250 grn version but haven’t casted any and gave away the ones that came with it to a member’s father hoping to use them on elk in his slow twist. He couldn’t find a good load in the short time he had.
 
Jeremy,
The REAL has an advantage...you know the bullet is engaging the rifling since when you load you force the last of the rings to grab the rifling at the muzzle, and it follows the rifling all the way down to the powder. Lee makes the REAL in a 250 grain https://leeprecision.com/mold-d-c-50cal-250.html.
So If your other bullet does not behave, then you should consider the REAL.

LD
 
The CVA Hawken will love them. You may have to use a lubed wad under the bullet for best results. 70 and 80gr 2fg or 3fg is normally the sweet spot with these bullets.
 
I actually found and bought a 2x cavity 250 grain REAL mold for my rifle. What do you folk use for lubrication? Is a felt wad really necessary? What's the "best" combo for using these bullets?

wm
 
I use them in my .58 NA Buffalo hunter. They shoot great and hit like high speed brick. 2" at 50 yds and that is pretty good with my old eyes. Accuracy went way up using 15mm wool felt wads I punched myself. Home brew beeswax/neatsfoot oil mix for bullet lube and a bit of moose milk on the wad. Keeps the barrel fouling to dang near nothing and loading is super easy and consistent.
 
I have used them since they first came out. I have them in 45, 50 and 58 calibers. I'm going to buy a 54 soon since I picked a rifle in that caliber. I read an article in Guns & Ammo I think in the late 70's written by their BP editor Phil Spangenbaum(?). He said in testing them that for slow twist rifles go with the lighter weight offered. I have always gone with the lower weight even for 1in 48 twist rifles. I've never shot them in a fast twist rifle.I bought a 45 caliber 200 grain mold and have used it in my 45 CVA Kentucky rifle I built in 1980. And my CVA 45 Colonial pistol. It shoots great in both rifle and pistol and is very accurate. I shoot them a lot because you don't have to fool with a patch.To me the only downside is you have to make them. I'm not a fan of molding so I do at least 50 at a time. It helps if you have a very small scale like used on illegal pharmaceuticals. Any that not +/- a few grains go back in the pot. Good luck

The correct term is "unlicensed pharmaceutical dispensing." :)
 
The joke on scales reminded me of something......some time ago I taught a college chemistry class at a new school whose lab had no equipment. So I drove over to a sister school and picked up whatever glassware, equipment, and scales they could spare.

So I'm headed back with a car load full of lab equipment and thought to myself "if I get pulled over the cop will probably think I'm setting up a meth lab!'

:p

I wasn't pulled over though.
 
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