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Kentucky pistol

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Joined
Jan 24, 2005
Messages
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Location
New England, New South Wales, Australia.
I’m starting the remodeling of my Pedersoli “Kentucky” into something, hopefully, more historically accurate.
First job, remove the finish.
IMG_2923.jpeg

This was easier said than done, my fiercest paint stripper did absolutely nothiall, so it was strip by scrapers and abrasive paper. It came off surprisingly easy, the untouched bits are
where I intend to remove some wood, in particular the bottom of the butt where I’ll fir a brass cap.
I’m leaving the ramrod pipes in place as I don’t fancy removing the tiny pins,
 
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WelL here’s a bit of progress, have turned roughly two thirds of the.barrel round and draw filed it a bit, only just touched the two side flats and the bottom flat so that there are no unseemly gaps.
Two wedding bands
IMG_2947.jpeg
IMG_2950.jpeg
Will now reassemble and do some wood removal.
Haven’t started on the butt cap yet as the only brass that I had on hand was part of a cast Indian vase, the brass machines beautifully and takes a high polish but whatever its composition is it is impossible to anneal so I’m waiting on some brass that will allow annealing and hammering, promised for next week.
 
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I reworked a pedersoli kit a few years ago but didn’t do anything with the barrel. I like what you are doing with your barrel how did you turn it down? Looking forward to your finished product!
 
Mike,
Just a bit of ordinary lathe work, I have an Australian “Sheraton” bench lathe for small jobs [a copy of the venerable American “South Bend” with a few minor improvements].

Here’s the barrel ready for rust browning.
IMG_2956.jpeg

I’ve cleaned it with alcohol [non-drinkable variety] and given it its first coat of solution.
 
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Mike,
Just a bit of ordinary lathe work, I have an Australian “Sheraton” bench lathe for small jobs [a copy of the venerable American “South Bend” with a few minor improvements].

Here’s the barrel ready for rust browning.View attachment 267465
I’ve cleaned it with alcohol [non-drinkable variety] and given it its first coat of solution.
Looks great wish I had a lathe! I did remove the bluing on mine and browned it. Keep us posted on progress.
 
Have stopped browning at the ‘aged’ look as I discovered that the drum reaches to the centre of the bore and even though there is a chamber of reduced diameter to the bore a couple of threads are exposed to the ignition, besides being an obstruction to proper cleaning.
l’m looking at taking the breech plug out and depending on its diameter either boring it to bore size or taper boring it.
IMG_2970.jpeg
The wall thickness is still the same as at the breech end, there is a dimple opposite the drum which I first thought to be poor machining but it may be deliberate to help with ignition as fouling builds up.
 
Have stopped browning at the ‘aged’ look as I discovered that the drum reaches to the centre of the bore and even though there is a chamber of reduced diameter to the bore a couple of threads are exposed to the ignition, besides being an obstruction to proper cleaning.
l’m looking at taking the breech plug out and depending on its diameter either boring it to bore size or taper boring it.View attachment 269745The wall thickness is still the same as at the breech end, there is a dimple opposite the drum which I first thought to be poor machining but it may be deliberate to help with ignition as fouling builds up.
Not many threads engaged on that drum. Be careful.
 
Did a bit more, put a tapered hardwood rod down the bore and got an impression of the front of the chamber which is only 0.215 inch diameter, which is inconveniently small for cleaning.
By some careful measurement I found that two full threads of the drum were protruding into the already limited space, these have been removed, there are 5 threads left.
The nipple protrudes as well and obstructs access through the cleaning hole in the drum, not good workmanship on the part of the makers.
IMG_2981.jpeg
The best I could do with the camera, bit shaky.
IMG_2978.jpeg
This clearly shows the nipple protruding and note that there is no area machined on the drum for the nipple to seat.

The photos were taken on the lid of a polystyrene box with a torch inside.

Edit,
Was going to take the offending bit off the nipple but got cautious and checked; had I done so I’d have made the hole much to large.
Will now check through the spare nipples.
 
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maybe it's too late, but can you make it a flinter?
I toyed with the idea but decided to stick with percussion.
Here’s the latest bit of work.
I found that the drum was overturning slightly but not enough to use a washer so I washed the threads in alcohol and reassembled using 24 hour epoxy, assembled the pistol and set the nipple right, left it for a bit over thirty hours and then drilled the chamber out from 0.217 in to around o.335 [that’s what the unmarked drill measures].
Removed the unwanted threads from the drum previously so the drum is now a neat cleanable fit in the larger chamber.
The heavy lines are the original chamber and protrusions [ no wonder the previous owner said it hadn’t been fired much].Please excuse lousy drawing.
IMG_3071.jpeg

Here’s the drill and wooden muzzle bush along with the barrel with the sights filed down [I’ll probably make them smaller yet when I zero it].
Also took the newness off the lockplate.
When drilling I set the depth using the chuck as the stop and centered the drill in reverse at very slow revs then keeping slight pressure on, I switched to forward and drilled the chamber, with a few stops to tip out the swarf.
IMG_3067.jpeg
IMG_3069.jpeg
 
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