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Kentuckian or Great Plains Rifle

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"BULL PUCKEE!"

An enlightening revelation on the topic, this should leave no doubts in the mind of a potential buyer, I am a bit unclear on whether this is "puckee" from now or "back then" but I am certain you will let me know that I am unclear on many things, have a good journey :v
 
Being originally from South Dakota I have lots of experience with Cattle Puckee in general. Could someone please elaborate the difference between "Bull" and "Cow" Puckee?
 
Ghettogun said:
Being originally from South Dakota I have lots of experience with Cattle Puckee in general. Could someone please elaborate the difference between "Bull" and "Cow" Puckee?

bull is just a larger and smellier version of cow
 
But I spell it BULL POCKEE.

Is this just a failure of my educational system which did not teach me to spell it BULL PUCKEE or is it just my rebellious nature that makes POCKEE seem more correct? :cursing:

Getting back to the original topic, my first flintlock was a Kentuckian .44.

I thought it was a nice rifle and it was quite accurate after I found out that it needed a .433 diameter roundball.
I never had a problem with its flintlock either.

I sold it to a guy at a gun show and ran into him about a year later. I asked him if he had shot it and he told me, "No. My wife likes it so much hanging on the wall that she won't let me shoot it.". :(
 
Jumpshot said:
Bill of the 45th Parallel said:
You will spend lots of time making them work, the way they should, but if you have the patience, it will be a great learning experience, and the cost will surpass the TC's price, by the time they work right.


Just curious here... What work is required to a GPR to make it work right that makes the total cost higher than the price of a T/C?


No reply?
 
Jumpshot said:
Jumpshot said:
Bill of the 45th Parallel said:
You will spend lots of time making them work, the way they should, but if you have the patience, it will be a great learning experience, and the cost will surpass the TC's price, by the time they work right.


Just curious here... What work is required to a GPR to make it work right that makes the total cost higher than the price of a T/C?


No reply?
you really expected one?
 
karwelis said:
Jumpshot said:
Jumpshot said:
Bill of the 45th Parallel said:
You will spend lots of time making them work, the way they should, but if you have the patience, it will be a great learning experience, and the cost will surpass the TC's price, by the time they work right.


Just curious here... What work is required to a GPR to make it work right that makes the total cost higher than the price of a T/C?


No reply?
you really expected one?

Just to give a brief answer.... there are those that feel you must purchase an L&R lock and Davis trigger to make a GPR shootable....

Me, I own a .54 GPR that will pile them into one hole at 50 yards from the bench. I coned and drilled the original flash hole liner, and I use Rich Pierce flints either bevel down or more recently with a 1/8" chunk of leather under the flint with bevel up. It's worked with 3f and 4f in the pan.
 
OK, Karwalis, here's your answer. It's two fold. First if you bother to go back five or six years on this site about fifteen percent of the questions on the flintlock forum are about getting the Lymans to work, either ignition problems, no spark, or a set trigger that doesn't work. In the last forty years, I've helped get these, some early T C's, and even the CVA family flintlocks to function properly. Most of the spark problems were poorly hardened frizzens, both too soft or too hard, or weak springs, and architecture. The rest of the locks that were manufactured properly worked fine. Only a few needed a lock replacement due to availability of parts. Ignition problems were either too small of a tough hole, or poor cleaning of the patent breech, or the use of sub powder. The triggers were easy to fix by tuning, and polishing. My answer was relating to the cost of replacing the lock and trigger, by those that don't have the skill to take care of problems that shouldn't be on a new gun. I've owned a half dozen of these for short periods of time by way of trades, and passed them on. I will admit they are an accurate gun, when properly tuned. I've also owned a couple of TC's, before they came out with the fix, the fix at the time, was either the Lyman cock, or modifying the TC cock by bending in the forge. That said, I hate to see newbie's struggling with a new flintlock out of the box. Though the Lyman's fair better than some of the others out there. I will admit that I haven't owned one of these for more than a few days at a time in the last ten years, I generally tune them, then donate them to the Scout shooting programs, or Hunter Safety.

Bill
 
My GPR worked well right out of the box. Didn't do a dang thing to it & never had a problem with ignition. Don't recall for sure but I think I even used the supplied flint (agate) that it came with. Never had a non-spark or flash in the pan.
 
On my GPR I had to replace the lock with a L&R and the triggers with a davis set. The factory frizzin was soft and the flint hit to low. The factory triggers were terrible too. I love the Lyman after over $200 worth of upgrades. I guess I just got a bad one.
 
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