How to make loading block?

[sandbergski]

how do i make a wood ball and patch holder ?
i am new to the game.

 

[jtmattison]

Like these?

I use 1/2 inch board. Usually oak but these are mahogany. There is a drill bit chart in the resource section for hole sizes per caliber. I also use a countersink to bevel the hole for ease of loading.

HD

 

[sandbergski]

can u put the patch on the ball in these

 

[hotsparks]

Yes, that's what they are all about, pour the BP in, put the holder over the barrel, and ram the patch and ball down...speedloader V.1...love mine

 

[longcruise]

can u put the patch on the ball in these

Just for another perspective, I use at least 3/4" boards so that my ball, when pushed completely into the board does not protrude from either side. It helps keep it cleaner. The other thing I do is make my holes a bit oversize from the standard size so that I can push the patched ball into the board with light finger pressure. That way, I can load the board with dry patch material and squirt a bit of wet lube on the patch before loading. Being an easy fit to the board, the lube easily penetrates the patch on the sides of the ball. Works as well with the grease lube that I sometimes use for hunting.

Mine are kinda plain. Not as nice as those pictured above. Some of the shooters on this board have made some very artistic bullet boards. Hopefully they will post a few pics.

 

[4deer]

Here is an example of what my loading block I made looks like partially loaded. This loading block I designed for range use hence the 10 shots.

I also went through the basics of how I made it in a post on my blog. http://www.huntingpa.info/2009/04/muzzleloader-building-round-ball.html

 

[mazo kid]

One suggestion I might offer is to use brad pointed wood bits, or Forstner bits in drilling your holes. This keeps the drill bit from "wandering" when starting the hole; essential if you want to keep a uniform spacing. Plus, it just looks better, IMO. Put a scrap block of wood under the loading block to keep the bit from splintering out the back side.

 

[FPDoc]

A definite yes for brad-point or Forstner bits. I don't think there is a wrong way to do them. I've seen all kinds of designs with decorative borders, carving etc. I have made a couple with one side counter-bored to a size that helps to center the ball over the bore without looking at it (pretty much a solution for a nonexistent problem). I have a 2-hole version for around-the-neck that has a leather cover to prevent those grease to clothing and dirt collection problems. On one for a caplock rifle I drilled a small hole with a leather plug stopper for a couple of spare percussion caps (at my age I'm more worried about a heart attack than some theoretical scifi detonation/decapitation but your mileage may vary). Don't forget that you can also just carve the darn things while you sit around the fire and talk.

 

[tg]

Here is one for a .62 that has an inlett piece of brass with the owners initials engraved on it, I did not make this one it came with a gun. I have a few but don't use them much anymore.

 

[tg]

What caliber are you shooting?

 

[wetpowder]

This could be handy too: :thumbsup:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/192279/

Have fun making them. :v

 

[Black Hand]

Try making your block thinner so the patched ball protrudes a little bit to both sides of the block. This help immensely with the alignment of the ball at the crown.

 

[4deer]

Try making your block thinner so the patched ball protrudes a little bit to both sides of the block. This help immensely with the alignment of the ball at the crown.

Actually I found that the stub on my ball starter when pushed in all the way against the loading block, that the balls are pushed out just enough that it works good for alignment. That picture was taken before I discovered that. However, were it not for my ball starter I would agree with you on making it thinner.

 

[Black Hand]

Get rid of your shortstarter (you don't need it) and load using your ramrod. It makes a several step procedure into a single, smooth loading sequence. Faster, easier and no shortstarter to carry or lose....