• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

How long can you leave it loaded?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

grndhntr

40 Cal.
Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
143
Reaction score
20
Hey guys. Another newbie question. I'm just starting to learn about muzzleloading and am interested in hunting with one, a cap-lock, esp. for elk. If you load your rifle and keep the powder dry (maybe by taping the end of your barrel with electrical tape and putting something over the nipple until you're ready to shoot) can you hunt for 9 days and expect it to go "boom". The reason is that I camp where the elk are and would like to not alert them to my intentions by unloading every night. I guess I could also pull the ball and dump the powder, but that seems more dangerous than just leaving it loaded (without a cap on, of course). Thanks.
 
Guns left loaded from the Civil War have been known to fire.

I would place a thin piece of 2 to 3oz leather over the nipple and not worry about taping the end of the barrel.

It is NOT a good idea to use spit for lube if you plan on leaving it loaded for any length of time as it will rust your bore.
 
You might also want to pick the vent or nipple before priming the next morning. lube your first load with a grease type lube.
 
I have left my guns loaded for over 3 months, I just run a lightly lubed patch doen to the ball and back at the end of the day, if in camp I put the gun in the tent or pickup and cover with a wool blanket after dumping the pan, cleaning the bore as above and pluging the vent with a feather, I have never had any ignition problems, avoid taking the gun into a heated area as condensation could become a problem though I have done this with no ill effects it is likley not worth the gamble.
 
First of all, I think we make far to much about a shot scaring game off. But I certainly wouldn't want to shoot and go through the cleaning process every single night. If you have a good cleaning and loading process you shouldn't have any problem with leaving the gun loaded. Just use common sense and make sure the gun is clean and dry to begin with before loading. I load my hunting rifle the morning of opening day and it remains loaded until I get a shot or I've hunted in rain or damp weather, in that case I will discharge the load and start fresh. I've never had a gun fail to fire.
 
That condensation thing is a biggie. When you're out camping for a few days, especially if it's cold weather, the best way to avoid condensation is to keep your rifle cold. So don't take it in your warm tent, RV, camper, etc, or it could start sweating. The muzzle end doesn't pose a problem, since it's sealed with the ball/bullet. The nipple end, however, can build up moisture inside the nipple and flash channel. I always leave the rifle loaded, then keep it in my vehicle over night, and also make sure everyone in camp is aware of the loaded gun. I've been covering the nipple with a cloth patch, but I like the leather idea better, so I'm going to switch to that.

Years ago, I did bring a cold rifle in a warm tent and actually saw beads of sweat forming on the barrel. It's a real concern, but one that can be avoided easily. Bill
 
My record for experimentation is 11 months. This is a 50 yard group fired with a charge left in the rifle plus four other patched balls that had been left in a loading block the same length of time (Moose Juice as a dry lube - no other added before shooting). High and 3X larger group but otherwise pretty good. Should be right on the peak of the diamond at that range.

11montholdlube.jpg
 
The most important thing to most remember is to have a clean bore before loading. Any petroleum presesnt will foul the powder. I would suggest swabing with alcohol first.
 
Around the barn here a shot once in awhile is no big deal. But I go every day and that many shots would be a bad idea. Also packing 5 miles into a spike camp for elk and shooting even once is not in my books. I am coyote hunting (watching a den hole) with a flinter that has been loaded for 16 months. I expect it to fire if needed. Will shoot when the time changes prob anyway. Been outside all the time. Larry
 
I went to the local hardware store and purchased a handful of what was called rubber suction tubing caps. They have several different sizes and I found one size that fit the nipples perfectly. They keep moisture out of the nipple plus protect it as well. I think they were 5 cents a piece.
 
grndhntr,
Keep in mind this is just my opinion,
and will say right up front there are more savy
folks here than myself :bow:
When I hunt deer,unless there is some really
bad moisture conditions I will keep my P/C lock
loaded until unloaded on a deer or the end of my hunt.No more than a week.Of course recapping every day with a different cap.JMHO
 
What in the Beejeebus is a "loading block" I have not seen that term in any pre 1830/40 period accounts of gun loading accesories but maybe I just missed them as I am kinda slow at times :idunno:
 
A loading block is a wooden block with holes drilled in it that will hold a patched ball. Makes it a little faster to reload. Not sure what that has to do with leaving a gun loaded over a period of time unless it has to do with the lube drying out on the patch.

John
 
Back
Top