• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Help fixing a dumb mistake.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Update: Gunsmith got it out. Now he's focusing on getting the nipple situation figured out.
I must be on Buffalo Arms fecal roster. every time i have stopped by they have been locked up like fort knox.
I recommend giving them a call about 30-45min (or around Athol at the latest if coming from the south) before you show up. That's what I do and I have never had issues getting in.
Personally, I would concentrate on getting the nipples out first if you have plans to shoot the gun in the future. Only a matter of time before the next dryball….. If the nipples have solid flats and you have as decent nipple wrench that fits, they should be removable. Then there is the option of drilling the nipples out (consider using a left hand drill) and an easy-out, though you will obviously destroy the original nipples, but they are a replaceable wear item.
Probably gonna have them drill it anyways if it's not a common thread pitch. That way in the future I can get nipples for it when they inevitably wear out.
 
This is going to sound really odd but I've found that vibration helps penetrating oil seep into the crevasses. That's basically how an ultrasonic cleaner works. I've secured containers of solvent and parts to my vibratory bullet tumbler in a pinch. Barrels I've placed in larger containers and secured them into the bed of my truck for a couple days. The rough roads where I live seem to proved plenty of vibration.
 
Did you check first begire doing anything to see if there was a load in the barrel?
If you did not then do not try to drill or use a torch. You don’t know if it is loaded.
Keep using the Kroil. Let it set over night of course with the krill on it. Then try the next day tapping the muzzle on the floor or a hard piece of wood to see if that would dislodge the ball. Sometimes that amount of enertia can be enough.
 
Then there is the option of drilling the nipples out (consider using a left hand drill) and an easy-out, though you will obviously destroy the original nipples, but they are a replaceable wear item.

Probably gonna have them drill it anyways if it's not a common thread pitch. That way in the future I can get nipples for it when they inevitably wear out.
My suggestion was to drill them out if necessary with a hole large enough to use an easy-out to remove the nipple without damaging the threads in the bolsters. Nipples of the correct original thread size are likely available. Drilling the nipple holes in the bolsters out to a larger size on an original coach gun, now that is a dumb mistake you can’t undo.
 
Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, I don’t have any idea what it might be called on this side of the pond. Oh well, I was just curious anyway. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, I don’t have any idea what it might be called on this side of the pond. Oh well, I was just curious anyway. Thanks again.
Some early tractors were petrol or gas engined, not diesel.
Once started on petrol and warmed up they switched over to tvo, a fuel close to kerosene base/weight of fuel.
They could smoke until worked and hot.

That's all I know.
 
@Acorn Mush, use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (Automotive Transmission Fluid). That's one of the best penetrating fluids I am aware of.
I tried that a few years back but could not keep the two fluids from rapidly separating. Maybe I used the wrong type of ATF?

Some early tractors were petrol or gas engined, not diesel.
Once started on petrol and warmed up they switched over to tvo, a fuel close to kerosene base/weight of fuel.
They could smoke until worked and hot.

That's all I know.
Thanks for the additional info. I think it was just called “distillate” over here but it’s use was WAY before my time. 🤣

I shall now cease and desist following this particular diversion from the subject to prevent going any farther afield. Thanks again for the info posted.
 
There is another way to get this slug out....boiling water.
Get the barrel/s that hot you have to hold them with a towel. Tap the gun muzzles on a lump of timber.
 
@Acorn Mush, use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (Automotive Transmission Fluid). That's one of the best penetrating fluids I am aware of.
I watch a YouTube channel, Project Farm. The man does some really interesting tests and comparisons and he buys everything himself, he does not accept any sponsors. Anyway he did a penetrating fluid test. here is a link to that episode

In case you don't care to watch it, He used 6 different products. Liquid Wrench came in first with the ATF/acetone coming in second. So, yeah, a good choice.
 
Back
Top