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Hammer Stalls

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roundball

Cannon
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Curious if anyone uses a hammer stall, and if so under what circumstances?

The thick leather ones seem to be too thick to use with the hammer at half cock, so does that mean they're mainly intended for use as a "safety" at full cock?

I've heard that thin metal ones would fit and work at half cock, but I need help understanding why any hammer stall would be used at half cock?

::
 
Don't have a photo I can post...they're in various supply catalogs...I understand they're for safety...just a little snug fitting leather sheath about the size of the finger tip of a leather glove, that slips down over the frizzen to prevent a spark if the hammer/flint falls unexpectedly
 
My Queen Ann and colonial locks will accept them at half clock, other locks need a thin brass or copper ones, I think at halfclock they are most valuble as a safety,incase something gives, I pull them of then cock for fireing
 
I made a leather one from - you guessed it - the finger tip from a leather glove. I use it when hunting. It has a long waxed cotton cord that I tie to the trigger guard. It does tip the pan on my T/C Hawken at half cock, so I use it as a saftey at full cock. I hunt from the ground, and I'm not loaded when I walk to my stand. When standing/sitting at my stand, I keep my gun at full cock with the hammer stall on. I figure the only person at risk is myself, since the only thing that will cause me to slip it off and raise my gun is the sight of a deer. When "still hunting", or in my case attempting to move slowly and stealthily thru the woods while actually making more noise than a bunch of foraging squirrels, I also keep the lock at full cock with the hammer stall on. When I come across another hunter or one of my buddies, I tip the frizzen and drop the hammer down. So, in my situation, I don't see the need for it at half cock. Hunting from a tree stand or on a organized drive may be a different story...

That being said, it is a goood idea about using a thin piece of non-sparking metal so there is more safety at half-cock. I guess you could pound thin some lead and make one pretty easily. (I assume lead doesn't spark, but I'd try it first) There can never be overkill when it comes to gun safety so I would like to try to find a way to use one at half-cock.
 
I also make hammer stalls, I call them frizzen covers, out of old leather gloves. The best gloves are the ones I find on the street. My own gloves are worn thin and full of holes before I discard them. The gloves I find have been tenderized by many pickup trucks so the leather is easy to work with. Usually only the thumb will fit over the frizzen of my large Siler lock. I use the smaller fingers for my Cochran lock.

Joel Lehman
Austin, TX
 
I make the metal ones out of copper or brass sheet stock and fold the top and two sides enough to "catch" the front of the frizzen and provide a solid surface on the hammer side,I don't know of anyone who markets them, you can make a "pattern" out of construction paper, you can fiddle around and come up with many ways of doing it, lead may work but when so thin as to clear on some locks the flint may cut through.
 
Keeping in tune with my mountain man immage, (yea, right) I like a hammer stall that has fringe and bead work on heavy leather, sewn with sinew thread, that's the way to go for me...
 
only owned a flint for 6 months, but after investigation last summer and fall i developed a method that worked very well for me. i load powder and ball and if i am not going to directly fire i put a small down covered quill in the touch hole, close the frizzen on the quill and empty pan, put the cock at half, and put a stall made of garment leather over the frizzen face. that way i can instantly see the rifle's status. if there is powder and ball in the rifle, there is a ffeather sticking out like a flag. you must make things obvious to us old timers). i even used red leather. i don't use a stall when i am hunting, but i do use it at all rest breaks when the rifle is set aside for a minute. but in camp or at home i use both the feather and the stall.

take care, daniel
 
Have always used a "frizzen cover" ("hammer stall" is a pretty nifty, upscale name, though) as a safety device. I suppose it would also keep the frizzen dry. I make mine out of whatever scrap leather is handy...if I think about it, I'll use a piece of fairly thick, stiff stuff for the back of it, and buckskin for the face...use a piece of lacing thong to hang it from the trigger guard...hang the touch hole pick there, too.
Hank
 
That's funny...I figured if I didn't call it by it's old 'traditional' name, I'd get beat up on !! :: ::
 
Most historic sites require hammer stalls(frizzen covers)be in place on all "firelocks" when not engaging in battle re-enactment. They also require lock fenders (flash guards) to cover the pan. That's why most of the suppliers keep them. These are both considered safty devices. If you drop the weapon (God forbid!!!) the frizzen cover prevents accidental discharge. If you make one from metal it should be of nonferrus type to prevent sparks from the cover. If the cover sparks you've defeated the purpose of the cover. Leather is cheap and easy to work.
 
roundball, that's the problem us hillbillies have...we don't know enough to know the proper names of things, so we make them up...I'm obliged to you and ghost...I didn't know the term "lock fenders" either... best, Hank
 
I just fold a piece of leather over the top of frizzen and sew it up each side, with sinew of course, punch a hole in the top for a thong and tie to trigger guard.
 
The oldtimer who told me about "Frizzen covers" said its main purpose was to keep the frizzen dry and free of oils from your hands.
I quickly found it also had a use as a safety of sorts.
If let down easy I have not found one to partially open my frizzen.
When easing through the woods I keep the hammer on half cock with the cover off. Sometimes when it is real still and I am on stand I will cock the piece and keep the frizzen cover on.
When climbing, riding or when at home, a toothpick is in the touchhole with the frizzen down over the end of the pick and the cover is on with the hammer down and biting into the leather.
I wouldn't be without one.
 

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