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Grits as a filler ?

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rudy parnell

40 Cal.
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How does that work?

Does it mix with the powder?

Can grits be used as a buffer or wad in Rifles also?
 
I tried corn meal as a filler above the powder and below the patched ball, as Paul VdH has suggested and it didn't show any difference in my smoothie. But then, she likes bareballs (uhhhh, unpatched) too.
 
That's it....corn meal.

I tried the search button and learned that Rebel had used Cream of Wheat in a pistol.

I wonder if I could improve my shot group of #6 with 30grains of corn meal on top of the 60 grain of BP. then a shot card or a piece of felt...75 grain of shot and then a shot card.

Anybody got the recipe for shooting Corn Meal ?
 
I use corn meal muffin mix as a buffer in my shot column, and yes in my case it did improve my shot patterns.
 
AJ/OH

What is the proceedure....and the measures that gave you success.

I'am looking to try this on Squirrels this year.

Thank you.
 
I prefer to put an OS card over the powder, before poring in the filler. The OS Card serves as a Fire Wall, and a pressure seal. [I don't want the filler burning out in front of the muzzle. In dry conditions that is a fair way to start brush fires.]

How much filler depends on gauge or caliber. In my .50 cal. rifle, I have used 20 grains by VOLUME of Corn meal and Cream of Wheat as a filler, and both worked well. In a smaller caliber gun, I would reduce the amount of filler, just because it won't be needed. In my 12 gauge shotgun, I use 50 grains of corn meal by VOLUME.

Using a lot of filler won't hurt anything, however. It does add to recoil, so keep that in mind.

It also moves the PRB forward, and since consistency is needed for the best accuracy, I like to use the same amount of filler for a string of shots.

Again, I measure the filler by VOLUME, not by weight. I have never even bothered to put the filler on my scale.

There is No reason I can think of that Grits won't work, unless its too coarse. Then it can be a problem providing a good seal.
 
:grin: I gone cook some corn.

It's a bit cold outside.

Squirrel soup is in order.

Many thanks...
 
corn meal (grits) was used over powder in the old days to seal out moisture on guns that would be left loaded for an unknown period of time. It does act as a filler as well for shot charges.
 
If you are going to use a filler behind a load of shot, use some kind of wad- OP Wad, OS Card, Cushion Wad( altho enough filler will do the same thing that a cushion wad does) under the load of Shot. As long as the powder charge is down at the breech( a bump of the back of the barrel with the butt of your palm will shake loose any powder that is sticking to the sides of the barrel and settle the powder at the breech), you can just go ahead and pour the measured load of grits, or other filler, down the barrel.

I now am using an OS card under the shot( over the filler), and then another one- or two in my DBL shotgun- to seal the shot loads in the barrels. I put an off-center hole in the cards, using an awl, to let air escape to aid in loading the cards.

In a DBL shotgun, I use two OS cards, because the recoil of firing the first barrel can loosen the OS card in the second. Using two OS Cards has the same effect as using a lock washer on a screw to hold the nut in place.

The Second OS card is not necessary in a single barrel gun, unless the Cards are not a tight fit. If you have that problem, I recommend ordering the next size gauge wads( cards) and use them in your gun, instead.

Using Os cards, instead of heavier wads, reduces the weight of each such " wad"(card), so that your pattern is disrupted less. In cylinder bore guns, you need every bit of help you can get to fill those patterns. You don't need a heavy wad following the shot out the muzzle to bump the back of the shot column in the air, with the same effect as a cue ball hitting pool balls.

While that load of shot pellets is all together during the first 9 feet in front of the muzzle, it creates a vacuum into which the following wad(s) are sucked, or " Drafted" if you prefer the use of NASCAR terminology. The lighter the "Wad(card)", the less likely it is to be sucked into the back of the shot column, and the more likely it will quickly fall to the ground. The off-center hole in the card helps it fall away from following the load of shot, by making the card unstable, aerodynamically.

In actual firing, its not unusual for a 1/2" cushion wad to travel more than 20 yards from the muzzle. Most Os cards are found on the ground within 15 feet(5 yds.) of the muzzle, by comparison. :hmm:
 
Slippyfoote,
What I did was to obtain a clear plastic tubes we have at work. I poured the shot charge I was going to use into the tube. I would start with about 20 grains of muffin mix and then tap the tube to settle the mix. I would continue to add about 20 grs at a time until I could see a good distribution of shot and muffin mix.

I would then repeat the process using the same amount of buffer. Once I figured out what I wanted, I tried it in my smoothbore.

I would load by powder charge... followed by 3 over-shot cards, then slide 1 over-shot down about 2"- 3". Add the shot charge, followed by the ½ the muffin mix. I will tap the sides of the barrel until the shot starts to rise to the top, add the rest off the buffer and continue to tap the mix into the the shot.

Next I will insert 1 over-shot card and seat the whole thing. This may seem like a long drawn out process, but if I'm turkey hunting I would only get one shot and I want it done right (by my standards).

I have even made shot packets like this using parchment paper. Load the packet, remove the top and seat the packet.

I'm happy with my results.
 
One shot 1 kill.....that's the standard I most appreciate !

Just for the sake of conversation.....addressing the subject of a package of shot.

I see that you have used parchment paper with success.

I am wondering if you could use thin aluminum foil folded around a shot charge.

I've only got a smooth rifle to try it in and I've been reluctant to give it a go.

Has anyone ever ?
 
The grits, Cream of Wheat, Muffin Mix, or what have you can be used in a rifle as a seal to prevent blow by of the hot gasses around a patched ball. Some folks settle the powder charge in the bore and then pour a measured amount of the filler of choice directly on top of the powder. This works just fine but can cause a muzzle flash as the fines in the filler are ignited by the burning powder. This can be a problem in dry country where it could start a fire. I prefer to use a card wad on top of the powder before I add any filler. Then I seat the patched round ball on top of the filler.

Of late, I have changed to using a lubed leather over powder wad on top of my powder charge and no filler in my rifles. The improvement in shot to shot consistancy was remarkable. I simply use a 1/2 inch hollow punch (Harbor Freight) to punch wads out of scrap 5 oz tooling leather. These are a good size for both my .45 and my .50 cal. rifles. I soak the wads in Ballistol for a couple of days and then press out as much of the Ballsitol as I can before using them. At the range, I just load them directly on top of the powder since the gun is not going to sit loaded for very long. If I were going to use them hunting, I'd want to put a card wad on top of the powder before seating the leather wad. This would prevent any of the Ballistol from migrating from the wad into the powder and possibly affecting how it shoots. When I have used card wads to see how they would affect the shot, I have made them from posterboard that I buy at Wal-Mart. BTW, the posterboard wads had no effect on the shots.

At our club's last woodswalk, I used patches that were lubed with straight Ballistol along with the Ballistol soaked leather wads. Our woodswalk has just a few short of 30 targets and I never once had to wipe my bore to remove any fouling and never had a bit of trouble seating a ball. When I was through, the bore was practically free of any fouling. A couple of patches with Rusty Duck on them and the bore was shiny new. I was amazed. Even when I got home and did a more thorough cleaning with hot water and soap, the patches came out clean and the water was hardly dirty. Amazing!! :thumbsup:
 
I just wonder if the aluminum foil would possibly hold the shot together and turn it into a slug. It may not open up in time to allow the shot pattern to open up properly, I don't know. Parchment paper is readily available in grocery store alongside the aluminum foil and waxed paper. It is not so expensive that you couldn't experiment with it. Besides if you didn't like it, your wife could use it in the kitchen. I am not sure how others do it, but if I were going to make packets of shot for my smoothbore, I'd start by getting a dowel rod that is only slightly smaller than the bore of your rifle so the parchment cylinder that you make will just slide into the bore. If need be, get a dowel slightly larger and sand/scrape it to size. Wrap a piece of parchment around the dowel and glue the edges down using a glue stick. Fold the bottom over the end of the dowel and glue it down. After you have made up batch of these parchment cylinders, fill each with your shot/filler charge and fold the top shut and glue it down with the glue stick. When you shoot, you want the paper to remain intact inside the bore but open up upon leaving the muzzle and allowing the pattern to open up properly. You may have to experiment with this idea until you get it to work for you just the way you want.

To get an idea of the best way to cut the parchment is to look at a book that tells you how paper for musket "cartridges" was cut. It was cut so that the glued edge spiraled around the cylinder. This gives a bit more glue surface and strengthens the "cartridge". You can use this design even if you find that you do not want to put the whole cartridge down the bore. Just tear it open and pour the shot charge down the bore and put the paper in your pocket. For Heaven's sake don't just throw it on the ground. Put it in your pocket, take it home and throw it in the trash. Don't litter. :hatsoff:
 
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