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Good wood for gun stock?

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Mr. Apol

32 Cal.
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I'm building my first arquebus, and I'm wondering about suitable woods for the stock. With some trouble I can get walnut or maple, etc., but I can more easily get poplar or fir in the size blanks I want at any home warehouse-type store. My question is, is poplar a suitable choice? I'm not overly concerned about exact historical accuracy here, although I'm going to replicate the configuration of a 15th century arquebus. Will poplar stand up to firing? I can stain it any color, but I am hoping someone out there can give me the benefit of their experience.

Paul Thompson
 
Mr. Apol, Welcome to the Pre-flintlock section. There are some really helpful fellows who hang out here and I think you'll take a likeing to them as I have. In the 30+ years that I have been building, I have seen stocks made from several woods. Cedar and fir are not desireable for such a project as they will continue to shrink and so disfigure the firearm after a period of time. They do not take sidewards pressure well and so are subject to deep dings or dents. The wood also splits quite easily. All that being said, I do know personally of two rifles of about 50 years of age made from red cedar that are still working guns. In my opinion, you will waste your time and $. I do not have any experience or knowledge of a stock being made from poplar. Cheers, Bookie
 
Way back when, I had access to a lot of 2" thick poplar, and cut several of these planks into stock blanks. I actually built a flintlock rifle, .50 caliber, on one of them. I still have the stock but have long-since cannibalized the parts for other projects.

IMHO, poplar is too soft a wood for a suitable gunstock. For a smaller-caliber gun, and assuming a fairly stout stock profile, it would work, and, as you say, could be stained to resemble a number of other woods. However, most arquebuses are not of small caliber (though their stocks are rather bulky, at least the ones I've seen). Even if the wood holds up under the recoil of repeated firing, it will ding, dent, and possibly break, in weak areas like the toe or around the inletting.

That said, the early period of firearms was one in which all manner of woods were tried, including pine, oak, and other species now generally considered to be inferior or completely unsuitable gunstock material. In that context, I question whether the use of any wood available at the time could really be considered historically inaccurate. Beyond question, though, is the fact that original stockmakers quickly learned to avoid soft woods (poplar included) for a number of good reasons. It seems to me you can learn from their experience, or repeat it. Were it me, I'd contact your local high school's woodshop, for starters, and see if they can provide a plank or point you toward a source of good walnut.
 
What are you going by to build this? Where are you getting the barrel from or are you making it. Just curious I never thought about building one....until now.
 
In handling and looking at original 16th and early 17th century guns in Germany, I found that most of them had stocks of apple or pear wood. A few had stocks of burlwood from possibley cyprus. I also saw some that had walnut and some that had oak stocks. A lot of the early guns had painted stocks. I think any kind of hardwood would suffice. Oak would have to be periodically oiled with linseed to keep it from drying out and becoming brittle. :grin:
 
Think Rabbitears is on the right track. Many old guns, and some of the modern makers, used fuitwoods for their stocks. Apple and pear being the most common due to the larger trunk sizes. English and possibly other European makers used yew and ash though I have no direct contact with guns with either wood so can't comment on thier suitability. Have played with cedar and plain maple using DGW's old stain formula of ammonia and a plug of chewing tobacco. Also used this on old pieces of furniture that required replacement of minor parts. It darkens with each coat and finishes well. It smells like the dickens at first but that goes away as it dries. Found out you need to get a finish on it pretty quickly. Roaches like to lick or eat it off!!! How weird is that? Does work though. Good luck.
 
Rabbitears said:
In handling and looking at original 16th and early 17th century guns in Germany, I found that most of them had stocks of apple or pear wood. A few had stocks of burlwood from possibley cyprus. I also saw some that had walnut and some that had oak stocks. A lot of the early guns had painted stocks. I think any kind of hardwood would suffice. Oak would have to be periodically oiled with linseed to keep it from drying out and becoming brittle. :grin:
Wes/Tex said:
Think Rabbitears is on the right track. Many old guns, and some of the modern makers, used fuitwoods for their stocks. Apple and pear being the most common due to the larger trunk sizes. English and possibly other European makers used yew and ash though I have no direct contact with guns with either wood so can't comment on thier suitability. Have played with cedar and plain maple using DGW's old stain formula of ammonia and a plug of chewing tobacco. Also used this on old pieces of furniture that required replacement of minor parts. It darkens with each coat and finishes well. It smells like the dickens at first but that goes away as it dries. Found out you need to get a finish on it pretty quickly. Roaches like to lick or eat it off!!! How weird is that? Does work though. Good luck.
Very Correct :winking:! I will further add that Oak is hard on woodworking inletting tools and the wood is acidic to metal!
Here is a Link to Forum Post "Why Not Oak?
 
HI,

Hey build it out what you got! Anything 2" and thicker is key. If the wood is a little iffy, then build it a little thicker about the wrist. The only worry I have is the stock spliting while shooting, usally the arquebus is heavier in cal, so it's a concern. I like the point about wood shrinkage, but again not a lot of fancy stuff with an arquebus in building, so again build it with what you got. It will be just fine.

Any questions ask, will walk you through any step of the process.

Pat
 
Thanks for the words of experience. I have decided not to use poplar. I'll probably get a walnut blank from[url] www.wrightsguns.com[/url]. I can get the sort of blank I want for under $50.

As far as a design, I'm going by eye. I've built kit guns, and repaired guns of various types, from modern auto pistols to a 19th century Italian Vetterli. My inspiration is a drawing found in Robert Held's "Age of Firearms." Almost identical drawings of an early serpentine arquebus can be found in Edwin Tunis's "Weapons," and Sean Morrison's "Armor." These were all books I devoured as a boy, and I've always wanted a matchlock arquebus.

I bought a brand new inline rifle from Southern Ohio Gun ($80). Made in Italy by Palmetto, it's .54 caliber and rifled of course. I haven't made up my mind whether to use the barrel as is or have it bored out to, say, .58 smoothbore. Anyway, I have a machinist who will cut the barrel off at 18 inches and fabricate a breech plug with tang. He'll also drill a touchhole through the top (offset to the right) and countersink it to make a little flashpan. He'll also make an S-shaped serpentine for me, and one or two brass barrel bands. I will make the stock, and there's my arquebus. Depending on the exact cost of the machine work, it ought to come in under $200, plus I'll have the stock and parts of the Italian muzzleloader left over. The original barrel is 24 inches, so I'm toying with the idea of using the barrel stub and inline receiver to make a .54 caliber muzzleloading pistol . . . adapting the rifle stock and hardware to do it. But that's incidental. The arquebus is the thing.

If I could upload images I'd share Held's illustration that is my inspiration.

Regards,

Paul
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Today UPS delivered the blank for my arquebus stock. I got it from Wright's Gunstock Blanks ([email protected]). It's black walnut, 3 x 4 x 36. It's not fancy grade, just plain, straight wood. Should be excellent for the application.

Cost $20 plus shipping.

Now I'm trying to decide whether to have a touch hole on top of the barrel (though offset from the centerline) or go with some form of side-mounted flashpan . . .

Paul Thompson
 
I like the side, plus easier to install a safety cover. Never tackled the top mount, but figured that I didn't want all that plume blowing over my head when I shot. Here is a photo of my favorite gun, simple and sweet and not many moving parts to go wrong. Even my hand gonnes I tend to hold the vent to the side.

I guess it comes down to if you going for a paticular gun. But I would tend for a side vent and cover.

Any questions, please feel free to ask. I will do anything to get mover guns on the shooting line!

Pat

gunmatchlock1.jpg
 
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