Good set of Chisels and Gouges-for beginner

[ryoung14]

I'm ready to buy a few tools in hopes of assembling a Tennesee Mountain Rifle or Leman from a TOTW or PR kit. Have been reading a few of the recommended books and just acquired that Midway Patternmaker's vise that was on clearance.

I'm wondering what size and type chisels and gouges builders here favor for inletting and carving tasks and what would constitute a good basic set. Have been visiting the WoodCraft site and am overwhelmed by what's available. They offer several wood carving sets, but I don't know if the tool choices are useful for gunstock work.

Normally I like to buy good tools and expect that a quality set wouldn't be cheap. But, I'm willing to pay more for tools I'm sure to use than for tools bought on speculation. It would be helpful to know your favorite brands as well.

I guess I also need to know specific tasks each tool is used for. Not everything will be undertaken on a first attempt and certain tools could be bought later. For example, no relief carving of the stock is planned, but a hunter star may need to be inlet. Maybe a 90% pre-inlet stock is the way to go.

Thanks. I'm asking alot, I know.
Bob

 

[melsdad]

I have done a lot of research on this subject lately myself. As far as the brand, most top builders seem to prefer the swiss made pfeil chisels and gouges. Everyone seems to have a different opinion on what sweeps, and sizes of gouges are a must have.

I will also be interested in the responses to your question.

 

[TinStar]

I just got a set of Flexcut chisels. Some folks like them. I liked the price. I can have three different size handles to fit all the different chisels. They may not be the absolute best but on my budget I can buy two chisels for less than the price of the Swiss made.

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!

 

[rootsy]

I have various flat chisels of all sizes down to 1/8". For smaller carving chisels I have some Japanese power grips, a set of mini flexcuts and a few Pfiels of various shapes and sizes...Smallest being 11/0.5 and 11/1.0 veiners.

 

[Rogue River]

Here's a good site to browse. www.littleshavers.com They have a beginners set that I purchased to practice with that pretty good quality.

 

[tecum-tha]

I am just building that Pedersoli Hatfield-Lancaster conversion which I document here on the forum and here is what I use most:
1/8",1/4",3/8" chisels
I like and have similar ones than these:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&dept_id=12769

Another real nice gem is a second 1/8" chisel you can grind down wet in width to about 3/32". I use that little sucker a lot!
If you build from a kit, there is no need to get planers or anything, but I recommend a set of Microplane wood rasps in rough and fine, one straight and one round in 8"
Straight here: http://us.microplane.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=13
Round here: http://us.microplane.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=11
After using the fine Micoplane you can start to sand with 150-180 grit immediately.
The first link has the Microplanes,too,so there is only one shipping charge.
All I think you need for about $120 in very good quality. :thumbsup:


Since you don`t plan to do any relief carving, ther is no need for carving tools or carving gauges.

 

[ricklandes]

IF you can...go to a woodcraft store and check to see what they have. I personally have bought "sets" and find these offer some good choices, but not everyone is a good one for what I do. I think a good flat chisel 1/4 or so is a must at a minimum. Buy the best you can get. I use Pfiel, but haved used Stanleys from the ACE hardware. A good edge makes the difference. Get a good strop, try the flexcut from Woodcraft...you will be pleased. I also like a gouge about a 3/8 to 1/2 with moderate curve. Next a v gouge is nice.

It is not always a question of what tools to get but rather a question of how are you going to use them and how dedicated are you in terms of time and effort to master them (or at minimum learn the basics well). I have seen much done with little and little done with much. Many tools do not substitute for practice and patience. Start slow and buy as needed rather than buy because a group price seems better "value" than a few single tools.
I have never regretted buying a good tool, but have wished I would have bought better...

 

[ryoung14]

Thanks much for the responses so far. Very informative. The link to littleshavers.com contained much about sharpening and maintaining an edge that I knew nothing about. I spent a fair amount of time reading over there.

Never heard of Flexcuts; will have to look into them.

Tecum-tha, I've been following your rebuild of the Pedersoli thread. Very interesting. At one point you referenced Micro-planing a surface and I wondered what that was. Thanks for the links and the pointers. Looking forward to your next installment on the build. I enjoy seeing the progress you're making.

"I have never regretted buying a good tool, but have wished I would have bought better..."
Know exactly what you mean, Rick. Also know what you mean about doing little with much. Hoping to keep this effort between the white lines, so to speak.
Bob

 

[tecum-tha]

You see that I start from a wood blank. For the initial things I use powertools to a certain point. A router is a must have for a lot of reasons(at least if you do a lot of traditional archery).I remove the bulk of my wood using a japanese saw(pull stroke saw) and a wide chisel.Mark your lines, saw almost to them every inch or so,then remove wood with hammer and chisel from the side. Micropane rasp it to the line. Quick and easy with common tools and only limited dust. The microplan rasps produce more fine shavings.

 

[Allan Gray]

You can't go wrong with the PFEIL "swiss made" brand. They are my favorite, and I've tried many over the years. They take a nice edge and better yet keep it, provided you keep them in shape.

I use a razor strop rubbed with jeweler's rouge to tune mine up during and after every use. I rarely need to put them to a sharpening stone. Another good tip is to avoid carving on wood that has been sanded. There will be residual grit left from the sand paper that will dull your tools. If you must, take a cheap cabinet scraper to your stock, (lightly), between sanding and carving to remove some of the grit.

"Two Cherries" brand from Germany is another good choice, but I find them bulky for gun stocks.
I've never used the Flexi-cut system but I've heard very good things about them.

The key is good steel to start and proper care.

 

[ricklandes]

Here's the Flexcut link. The block comes with a stick of the rouge and I recommend ordering an extra as it is cheap and to have to go and reorder later will cost more in shipping than the stick of rouge. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4364

 

[bioprof]

This is a good deal on Pfeil chisels:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=148598&FamilyID=21040&hp8=true

 

[ryoung14]

I saw that set, Professor. Any idea if that's a decent selection of types & sizes for stock work? If so, I'll order 'em. They seem a little large compared to what's mentioned in my books.

Can't argue with the clearance price, though. Thanks.
bob

 

[ryoung14]

Suitable or not, Professor, they're on order. We'll soon find out. :hmm:
Bob

 

[bioprof]

They're a little bigger than what I'm used to using, but then again it takes me three or four times as long to inlet a part than professional builders. Maybe if I used larger gouges I could get the job done faster.

If you find that some of them are too large to use, I'm sure that you could get more than your money out of them by selling them on eBay. There's one seller that has them for sale for $25-30 a piece.