Getting too many misfires

[SDHNTR]

For the second time in a week my Lyman GPR popped the cap but failed to ignite the charge while lined up on a pig. What can I do to get more reliable ignition? Different nipple or cap? I typically leave the charged rifle out in the truck overnight so as not to induce condensation coming out of a warm camper in the morning. Recommendations welcome. Here is my set up:
PRB
90 gr Pyrodex
CCI #11 cap
Stock nipple

 

[waksupi]

Are you popping a few caps before loading? Getting all the oil from the bore and breech? If you could find real BP, that would probably help a lot.

 

[Sam squanch]

Dump the pyrodex. Or get enough real black to use as a priming charge before adding the pyrodex.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Before a hunt I remove the barrel and pour an ounce or so of acetone down the bore and push a dry patch down so the acetone squirts out of the nipple. Continue with more dry patches and give it time to dry. Then pop a couple of caps and notice the blast coming out of the muzzle by having it near something like dust. Then load, you should be good. Trying this long before the hunt to insure you are doing it right is advisable.

 

[Banjoman]

.

 

[SDHNTR]

Are you popping a few caps before loading? Getting all the oil from the bore and breech? If you could find real BP, that would probably help a lot.

Always. I swab a few dry patches, pop a few empty caps and then fire a fouling shot before hunting.

 

[Gtrubicon]

For the second time in a week my Lyman GPR popped the cap but failed to ignite the charge while lined up on a pig. What can I do to get more reliable ignition? Different nipple or cap? I typically leave the charged rifle out in the truck overnight so as not to induce condensation coming out of a warm camper in the morning. Recommendations welcome. Here is my set up:
PRB
90 gr Pyrodex
CCI #11 cap
Stock nipple

I shoot pyrodex out of my investarm bridger hawken. I was having ignition issues with it. I installed a Treso Ampco nipple and now only shoot pyro P in it. This combination works very well for me. Cleaning practices need to insure your fire channel is clear.

 

[Gtrubicon]

Always. I swab a few dry patches, pop a few empty caps and then fire a fouling shot before hunting.

Are you cleaning the bore between fouling shot and your main load? You could be pushing fouling down in the channel blocking flame from the cap.

 

[SDHNTR]

I’ve got Pyrodex from shooting my in line. No place near me has black powder so I’d like to use what I’ve got and am looking for ways to make it work better. Hotter caps?

 

[SDHNTR]

Are you cleaning the bore between fouling shot and your main load? You could be pushing fouling down in the channel blocking flame from the cap.

No I’m not. But I have noticed the bottom nipple hole gets plugged a lot. Maybe it’s undersized?

 

[Gtrubicon]

No I’m not. But I have noticed the bottom nipple hole gets plugged a lot. Maybe it’s undersized?

Could be, I order the Treso nipples off eBay, worth a shot. I think there are a couple different brand nipples that have a larger flash hole to aid ignition.

 

[RiverRat]

What Phil Coffins said. If you don’t have any acetone, you can use spray brake cleaner, just make sure everything is dry before loading.

 

[SDHNTR]

Could be, I order the Treso nipples off eBay, worth a shot. I think there are a couple different brand nipples that have a larger flash hole to aid ignition.

Any downside to just drilling mine out a hair?

 

[Grenadier1758]

For the second time in a week my Lyman GPR popped the cap but failed to ignite the charge while lined up on a pig. What can I do to get more reliable ignition? Different nipple or cap? I typically leave the charged rifle out in the truck overnight so as not to induce condensation coming out of a warm camper in the morning. Recommendations welcome. Here is my set up:
PRB
90 gr Pyrodex
CCI #11 cap
Stock nipple

The Pyrodex is the problem especially if you are using the R granulation. The combination of the chambered breech, all the twists from the nipple seat and the modest heat from the CCI#11 cap and stock nipple really puts a hamper on reliable ignition. You need lots of heat to ignite Pyrodex P. Pyrodex R is slightly easier to ignite. You will gain reliability with a nipple designed to send more heat from the nipple seat to the powder chamber. Red Hot, Spitfire or Hot Shot nipples will work better. CCI or Winchester Magnum caps or RWS Plus Caps send more heat along the flash channel. Quite obviously real black powder is the answer, but only if you can obtain some. Local suppliers may not be able to meet the storage requirements and are limited to the substitute powders. Apparently mail order is not something you care to do.

As others have said, make sure that the breech is cleaned of residual oils by using a dryer such as rubbing alcohol or acetone. Store the rifle muzzle down after cleaning to drain excess oil from the breech.

 

[longcruise]

Always. I swab a few dry patches, pop a few empty caps and then fire a fouling shot before hunting.

Shoot the fouling shot at the pig.

 

[SDHNTR]

Could be, I order the Treso nipples off eBay, worth a shot. I think there are a couple different brand nipples that have a larger flash hole to aid ignition.

Ok. Do you use musket caps with them too or just standard #11?

Anyone know the thread pitch for a Lyman GPR nipple?

I will also try the acetone.

 

[SDHNTR]

The Pyrodex is the problem especially if you are using the R granulation. The combination of the chambered breech, all the twists from the nipple seat and the modest heat from the CCI#11 cap and stock nipple really puts a hamper on reliable ignition. You need lots of heat to ignite Pyrodex P. Pyrodex R is slightly easier to ignite. You will gain reliability with a nipple designed to send more heat from the nipple seat to the powder chamber. Red Hot, Spitfire or Hot Shot nipples will work better. CCI or Winchester Magnum caps or RWS Plus Caps send more heat along the flash channel. Quite obviously real black powder is the answer, but only if you can obtain some. Local suppliers may not be able to meet the storage requirements and are limited to the substitute powders. Apparently mail order is not something you care to do.

As others have said, make sure that the breech is cleaned of residual oils by using a dryer such as rubbing alcohol or acetone. Store the rifle muzzle down after cleaning to drain excess oil from the breech.

Using Pyrodex RS. I wouldn’t mind ordering black powder, but I don’t shoot this gun too much so paying the hazmat for a pound is cost prohibitive. But it may come down to that. Thanks for the tips.

 

[waksupi]

Any downside to just drilling mine out a hair?

Results in higher pressure at the hammer, and usually poorer accuracy. The smaller hole directs a hotter shot in a smaller area. Think of a garden hose with a nozzle on it.

 

[SDHNTR]

Results in higher pressure at the hammer, and usually poorer accuracy. The smaller hole directs a hotter shot in a smaller area. Think of a garden hose with a nozzle on it.

Great explanation. Makes good sense. Thanks.

 

[Gtrubicon]

Ok. Do you use musket caps with them too or just standard #11?

Anyone know the thread pitch for a Lyman GPR nipple?

I will also try the acetone.

I don’t use musket caps. I have cci, Remington and RWS that all work fine. My favorite caps are the ones I make with the 22 reloader kit. I’m pretty confident that a new nipple and pyro p, not pyro rs will cure the prollum.