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Getting closer to test firing - safety question

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fpatton

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My TotW Kentucky flintlock pistol is coming along pretty well, and last night I did my first "all-up" test fit, getting a nice shower of sparks out of the lock. As I think about getting closer to a test firing, I'm starting to wonder about how to conduct this safely.

I installed the breech plug myself and am confident it's seated well, and that the threads are solid BUT I also don't want to do any permanent damage.

I've never fired a flintlock before, so I'm not sure what might happen if something was wrong with my installation, but I imagine it's not nice.

It would be cool to have a big wooded area out back where I could do a proofing of sorts, but the best I have is a crowded local range. (Only one of the local ranges allows BP, as it turns out.)

Any advice on the best way to proceed? Thanks!

Fred
 
If the barrel and breech plug are the commercial ones typically sold by TOTW and PRLR and if you installed the breech plug correctly there is no need to proof test your barrel.

In fact, I do not recommend proofing these barrels.

Understand that proof testing subjects the parts to stresses far beyond anything they will ever see in daily use.

These extra high stresses can cause damage to a otherwise safe and sound barrel.

If you are adamant about testing it, here's a bit of information you will need.

As a designer of jet engines, I required proof testing on many of the parts that go into them.

This was to assure that the parts would safely take stresses far beyond the stresses normally encountered.

The important catch here is that every part that was proof tested was then totally inspected.
The inspection was not only a dimensional inspection but it involved expensive tests to prove the test itself had not damaged the metal itself.

These tests ranged from Fluorescent Penetrant inspection to, Magnetic Particle inspection, to Ultra-sonic and X-ray inspection.

Fluorescent Penetrant inspection involves coating the surface of the part with a fluid that fluoresces under ultra-violet light. The fluid will enter any surface cracks that might have appeared.
Because this only tests surface conditions it is the bare minimum we used.

Magnetic Particle inspection is used for iron or steel parts. It tests not only the surface but the internal structure of the metal.

You can get this test done at any good automotive engine rebuilding company. Your local garage guy won't have the equipment.

Of course, Ultra-Sonic and X-Ray is totally out of the question for a small time builder.

The point I'm making is, all of the commercially made muzzleloading barrels are safe if you don't go totally wild and overload them with powder.

The only failures I've heard of were operator error, caused by someone loading smokeless powder into their gun.

Just trust your parts and your workmanship. You and your gun will be find. :)
 
Flash a few pans of powder off at home (garage - back yard - in house if not married) if that works then take it to the range and shoot it - I would let the range officer know that it is the first time that you are firing the pistol but I would not tell them that you built it since the range you are shooting it at is a public range - they might think you made a "pipe bomb" and are a terrorist.
 
Hah! Seriously, though, I would feel a bit better to have someone more experienced looking over my shoulder. I wouldn't want anyone else to take the first shot though.

Fred
 
I was thinking about aiming a camera down the barrel and letting off a flash in the pan to ensure that I have good alignment of the touch hole.

("In the house." Good one. :grin: )

Fred
 
I remember reading that originals exist where the breechplug could be removed with the fingers (no wrench). It is improbable that a modern breechplug seated with a wrench will come apart...
 
Sure, Fred, why not smoke a perfectly good camera lens to find out what you could see with a flashlight and a piece of wire? :stir:
 
If I feel the need to test...I put the butt inside
a tire and tie the forestock to the opposite rim and fire with a long string. I don't over load it either
just a bit above the normal load.
Wulf
 
OOOOOPs....I forgot...you were talking about a
pistol.................use your left hand.
 
Black Hand said:
I remember reading that originals exist where the breechplug could be removed with the fingers (no wrench). It is improbable that a modern breechplug seated with a wrench will come apart...
Yep many originals can just be hand tightened and be safe - there is a difference. The originals I've de-breeched had much coarser and deeper threads than the current fine threads used on modern barrels and breech plugs
 
As this is my first flintlock, I'm less concerned that the hole goes through and more that it's in a position that the ignition will make it through. And I was planning on using an old digital camera I have lying around, not a new Canon or anything. :)

Fred
 
Just drop ten grains of powder down the bore, charge the pan and step out the back/front/garage door and let er drop!
 
marmotslayer said:
Just drop ten grains of powder down the bore, charge the pan and step out the back/front/garage door and let er drop!
That sounds like a better idea than trying to take a picture.

Unless the camera is set up right it will take the picture before or after the pan flashed, making it look like the vent isn't working right.

As for the vent hole location, when someone says they want to build one of the "box of parts" type kits I always suggest that they build a flintlock.

Why?

Because aligning the hammer and nipple and providing the needed support for the drum on a percussion system takes more than a bit of fine tuning.

A flintlock with a vent hole that's entering the bore just slightly ahead of the face of the breech plug will almost always fire when the pan flashes.

Even with the vent a little high or low or forward or aft from the center of the pan, it will work.

I did find, a long time ago, if a vent liner was used in the flintlock's build, make real sure it is trimmed to a length that is short enough to assure that it doesn't stick out inside the bore.

I forgot to recheck that once and I had forgotten to trim it flush with the bore. :redface:

That resulted in several flashes in the pan.

After I found and corrected the problem that gun would fire every time.
 
I personally don't think a modern barrel/components needs to be proofed...that's something they did when they made barrels from flat iron over a forge.
I also agree that 10 grs fffg over a loose patch in the back yard will go poof, and let you know if it will go bang at the range. Crank up your car stereo if your worried about the neighbors being upset.

Eterry
 
More good info! I have a vent liner from track that I was planning to use. I did see in Alexander's book that usually the liner wasn't added until later (should I just be drilling a hole for now?), and that you should make sure it doesn't stick into the barrel when in place.

Based on the breech plug position, the hole is going to be just forward of the center of the pan, so it sounds like I'm in pretty good shape.

I sure am learning a lot on this project!

Fred
 
Though we have a pretty quiet neighborhood, there are some kids around who like to set off, well let's just say BIG firecrackers, so I don't suppose anyone will notice.

I had misunderstood the earlier post. I thought it was suggesting just powder in the pan, not adding powder and a patch to the barrel. That was what the camera was for - to video the process.

Fred
 

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