Freshning a bore

[Spot1540553049]

Hello the camp,
I need to freshen the rough bore on a swivel gun (1752 Brittish). Its a reproduction of ordinance steel. This is something thast I have never done or had before. Any ideas or suggestions would help.
as usual,
Spot

 

[TheDoubleD]

We could use a bit more imformation.

How rough the bore,from what.

Diameter and length barrel. Diameter and depth of bore.

What is the barrel made from?

 

[Spot1540553049]

DD,
As I said this is a reproduction 1752 British swvel gun at full size. It is made of ordinance steel. As were the origionals it has a 1" bore 22 inches in length with turned trunnions. It came with a rough bore to begin with and with use it is becoming rougher. It has set while I was incapacitated for a couple of years and it did rust some which now is neutralized. Any ideas?
I have extended a brake cylinder hone to the right length but fear the abraasive is too fine to begin the fob with.
as usual,
Spot

 

[Blizzard of '93]

Never did it on that big a bore but try a piece of 7/8" dowel about 3' long split on one end back about 8", wrap a piece of 36 grit around it after sticking the end in the slot. run it back and forth while twisting arouind, this will rough the worsst out of it. blow out with compressed air evry now and then. Then use coarse grit stone on the hone.

 

[TheDoubleD]

I'm not sure what you mean by ordnance steel. But It realy doesn't matter.

If the roughness is tool marks from machining I would find someone with a lathe and have them ream the barrel for you. After reaming then polish with a brake hone or sanding stick with 2 or 3inch 240 or 360 grit sanding belt

If you just run a brake hone or a sand paper over tool marks or even rust pits you will then just end up with smooth tool marks and rust pits in the bore.

If the roughness is just from light surface rust then the hone or polishing stick will work, but don't use coarser than 180 grit to start to polish the bore. Coarser cuts to deep, even hand driven and takes a bunch of work to get out. You gotta keep your hone or stick moving in and out if under power. With the stick start with 180, move up to 240 then 360 grit. You want that bore smooth.

Do not use those flapper sanding drums they will make wallows and grooves real fast. You want a solid back to sanding paper.

 

[TheDoubleD]

I'm not sure what you mean by ordnance steel. But It realy doesn't matter.

If the roughness is tool marks from machining I would find someone with a lathe and have them ream the barrel for you. After reaming then polish with a brake hone or sanding stick with 2 or 3inch 240 or 360 grit sanding belt

If you just run a brake hone or a sand paper over tool marks or even rust pits you will then just end up with smooth tool marks and rust pits in the bore.

If the roughness is just from light surface rust then the hone or polishing stick will work, but don't use coarser than 180 grit to start to polish the bore. Coarser cuts to deep, even hand driven and takes a bunch of work to get out. You gotta keep your hone or stick moving in and out if under power. With the stick start with 180, move up to 240 then 360 grit. You want that bore smooth.

Do not use those flapper sanding drums they will make wallows and grooves real fast. You want a solid back to sanding paper.

 

[Spot1540553049]

DD,
Thanks for the help. You too Blizzard. By ordinance steel I mean that this peice was not cast with a bore but machined out to bore diameter. It is also cast of steel and not of iron. Steel is I know stronger than iron but problamatic with the rust. This gun has been rough to begin with and I will get it reamed and polished properly this time and hope that I don't get laid up inable to maintain the thing again.
It was left with the tampion off and vent open while I was out and it did get a surface rust on the bottom of the bore. I was blind for a good long while and didn't see what was going on.
as usual,
Spot