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Flint type Lock with no Half Cock Poistion?

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An example of how far folks will go to build a competition pistol. This looks like one built on a 1911 or similar pistol frame, with a right hand flintlock mounted in a reversed position on the left side- sort of "bass-ackwards". Supposedly this arrangement resulted in less sight displacement when fired.

White Fox
 
Firearms that require the triggers to be set before the lock can be cocked are dangerous.

I have a Tennessee rifle made by Steve Bookout of Toad Hall Rifleshop that requires the triggers to be set before the lock can be cocked. Can you explain how that lock is dangerous? There is no way I can get that rifle to go off when half-cocked.

To fix it, I can probably bend the sear arm up to increase clearance so the gun may be cocked without setting the trigger, but I don't want to do it unless it's absolutely necessary.
 
A few years ago I finished building my third flintlock rifle. The rifle has a modern Chambers Siler lock with a Davis double set trigger. As it turned out the rear trigger bar applied enough pressure to the sear the half cock did not engage unless the trigger was set before cocking the lock. I want all my rifles to work the same way to avoid a mental error. So I filed a smidgen off the top of the trigger bar and all worked fine. Let's hope it works out as well for you.
 
It's just my opinion but I think that rather than saying, "are dangerous" a more descriptive wording would be "can be dangerous".

As for "quality guns do not requiring this.", there are a number of superb quality target rifles that use a double set single lever trigger.

There are also very well made locks that don't have a "fly" installed in their tumbler and if the owner of one of these wishes to have a Double Set trigger, the Single Lever style is the only one that will work for them.

For those who don't know, the Double Set Single Lever trigger is so named because it has two "triggers", hence the "Double Set".

It has a single lever projecting upward from the rear 'trigger' and is spring loaded to hold this lever extended upward where it will push upward on the sear arm when it is in the 'fired' position.

Because the rear 'trigger' is always pushing up on the sear arm when it is in the released position, it keeps the nose of the sear well away from the half cock notch while the hammer/cock is falling from the full cock position.

The front trigger cannot fire the gun by itself. only the rear 'trigger' has a blade for releasing the locks sear.

The much more common Double Set Double Lever triggers have two blades for releasing the sear, one on the front trigger and one on the rear trigger.
This allows the front trigger to work in two ways.

It can use its lever to release the locks sear without the rear trigger being set, or it can act like a single lever trigger and hold the rear 'trigger' in a cocked position.

I have seen cases where a Double Lever Double Set trigger has been installed incorrectly.
If installed to deeply or if the trigger assemblies rear 'trigger' blade is too high it can act like a Single Lever trigger and hold the sear arm away from the tumbler.

If this is happening, reducing the height of the rear triggers blade so that it clears the sear arm at all times will fix it.
 
Just for the info of all who posted to help. The rifle does in fact have a half cock position. Taking the lock off, a little cleaning and oil, looks like it had been dry and unused for quite a few years, and everything is working just spanky. I posted by first shooting outcomes under a new thread. Thanks again for all who replied, I learned a lot and even learned what to look for when I took the lock off.
 
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