"finishing" aquafortis

[hhughh]

Need suggestions for period correct, authentic, to apply to AF stock. Was leaning toward Tung Oil, but now I'm reading where it is more of a modern invention, turns the stock too dark to look like an original finish at the time of the finish, etc. So please, any suggestions on what I'm looking for, who sales it, etc.

Thanks,
Hugh

 

[Many Klatch]

You can't get any more original than Linseed oil. Modern linseed doesn't dry as fast as the old sun baked stuff. Mix it 1 part turpentine, 1 part vinegar and 3 parts linseed oil. Rub it in often and well. The stock should warm under your hands when you rub it in.

Be careful with it. This stuff will spontaneously combust. I keep the rag that I use in a small tightly capped mason jar, to eliminate air getting to the linseed.

After a couple of weeks of rubbing the linseed oil mix in, you will have a deep penetrating water resistant finish on your gun.

Many Klatch

 

[Stophel]

After neutralizing the stain with a lye wash, fill the grain with shellac (seedlac, buttonlac, rubylac....I've been using buttonlac which I like very much). When the grain is filled, use an alcohol soaked rag to wipe off all the shellac from the surface of the wood. You don't want any of it on the outside. Then, proceed to apply your period-accurate linseed oil varnish, rubbing it on by hand in exceptionally thin coats.

That's what I do, anyway.

I make my own varnish. I just got some good quality varnish making supplies and need to get around to making up some new stuff. Purified cold pressed linseed oil, gum mastic, rosin, a little lead carbonate, boil away...

Probably the best readily available thing to a period type varnish is Tried and True "Varnish Oil", available from[url] www.Woodcraft.com[/url] . It is made of linseed oil and rosin, and that's it. It has been "pre polymerized" a bit. I suppose that it is "stand oil" which they put in glass covered trays in the sun for a period of time. There are no driers added, and it is not boiled (though I wonder how they get the rosin dissolved in it....). It DOES work. I have not put it on a gun, only test pieces, but would not feel bad about using it on a gun at all. Other traditionally-minded people that have used it say they love it. It will take time to dry, and it has to be put on exceedingly thin. I don't know if I can impress upon you just how important it is to put it on THIN. With each coat, it must be put into the sun to dry. It will never dry inside (unless you have blacklights shining on it!!! :haha: ). My own concoction with driers in it will pretty well dry within a several hours of good sunlight. However, it is not fully cured. I don't feel satisfied until it has been in the sun ALL day for two or three days, turning it routinely so that the sun gets all the way around the stock. :winking:

Not only is this a period method (to the best of my ability to ascertain), it will also give you really clear, beautiful grain. It will not darken up all the endgrain, and dull the curl as when you fill the grain with an oil finish. Is it waterproof? No. (frankly, I don't think it should be...). Is it water repellent? Yes. If water is allowed to stand on it, it will soak in though, and it may make a white spot. Oh no! Not to worry, it will dry back out again, leaving no trace, and while water may pass through the oil varnish, it seems to have no affect upon it at all. Linseed oil varnish is TOUGH. It will weld itself to the wood and you won't be able to scratch it off without gouging the wood.