Finally Found That Antique Anvil I Been Huntin'

[TDM]

They look like a big, square Allen wrench. Personally, I just pick it up and try not to drop it on my feet.

I'd have to use a chain and the frontend loader on my tractor now!

 

[alcessapiens]

I'd have to use a chain and the frontend loader on my tractor now!

I said it’s doable,not that it’s smart. Tractor is the smartest option. I’m late 50s and the 126lb is easy enough, but that damned 226lb. Seems to be gaining weight each year.

 

[The Appalachian]

The unsolicited advice, you can get here on this site is just over the top.....

Anyway, the markings I can make out on it are infact Peter Wright, though all the first name or letter "P" is indistinguishable. It is marked "solid wrought", meaning the base is made with high quality wrought iron. It is marked "PATENT ", so made after 1852. It is marked "ENGLAND", meaning it was made after the Tariff Act of 1890 when the crown demanded all export goods be marked with "ENGLAND". I do not find the words "made in" near the word "ENGLAND", nor is there logical spacing for them, so it was most likely made prior to the 1930 Smoot-Hawley Tarrif Act when goods were required to be marked "Made In ENGLAND". So sometime in the 40 year span of 1890 and 1930.

It is marked "1 0 0", meaning this is a 112 pound anvil.

 

[TDM]

It’s a true prize!

 

[knifemaker]

I guess you missed my "figure the weight" link in the text. ;-)

You know, I did miss it. Thanks. It was a mystery for a long while until one of the fellows in the Illinois Valley Blacksmiths explained it.

 

[The Appalachian]

This is after some wire brushing and a few minutes with a sander disc.

S,o now that we know what we have, would all you experts here use it as is, or would you let somebody gently take some of this rust pitting off with a surface grinder?

The forge weld line near as I can tell indicates the top is about 3/4" thick......

 

[TDM]

This is after some wire brushing and a few minutes with a sander disc.

S,o now that we know what we have, would all you experts here use it as is, or would you let somebody gently take some of this rust pitting off with a surface grinder?

The forge weld line near as I can tell indicates the top is about 3/4" thick......

View attachment 173402

No expert, but try using it as is first before anymore alterations. My 2 cents.

 

[alcessapiens]

You’ll imprint the pits on your work a bit but it’s worth trying to preserve the steel face. The more you grind, the less you’ll have. Nice find. They’re great anvils.

 

[The Appalachian]

You’ll imprint the pits on your work a bit but it’s worth trying to preserve the steel face. The more you grind, the less you’ll have. Nice find. They’re great anvils.

I think all that goes without saying.....

I would guess no more than .050" off the top at the absolute most would clean up most of it. Would you spare .050" off the top to get a cleaner work surface?

 

[nit wit]

I was fortunate to trade a set of moose antlers for one four years ago. They are quite expensive now.
Nit Wit

 

[alcessapiens]

I think all that goes without saying.....

I would guess no more than .050" off the top at the absolute most would clean up most of it. Would you spare .050" off the top to get a cleaner work surface?

Me, yes. But I’m picky about that sort of thing. Every so often I do a “tool day” where I clean up the shop and fix/ sharpen/improve tools. I polish hammer faces to mirror finish because I don’t like any marks on the work I didn’t intend. However, I also have made texturing hammers and bottom plates to deliberately get some surface texture. If the pitting is shallow enough then the tiny bumps that show up can be draw filed, or sanded/ polished our. Might not be much of a problem. pW anvils have a good hard face and if carefully ground might last you and your grand kids staying smooth. It’s a pity so many old anvils were left to rust behind the barn.

 

[The Appalachian]

Me, yes. But I’m picky about that sort of thing. Every so often I do a “tool day” where I clean up the shop and fix/ sharpen/improve tools. I polish hammer faces to mirror finish because I don’t like any marks on the work I didn’t intend. However, I also have made texturing hammers and bottom plates to deliberately get some surface texture. If the pitting is shallow enough then the tiny bumps that show up can be draw filed, or sanded/ polished our. Might not be much of a problem. pW anvils have a good hard face and if carefully ground might last you and your grand kids staying smooth. It’s a pity so many old anvils were left to rust behind the barn.

Yeah this one appears to have been that or somebody's yard ornament. I'm not all that scared to take a little off the top. Any dimpling or other texture on my work I'd rather put it there myself on purpose and not by way of anvil face.

The hard plate is at least 3/4" thick if not thicker judging by the forge weld line down the sides. I can't see the difference between .750 and 700 making that much difference.

When they stamped it "solid wrought", and research shows they used top quality wrought iron for the base, they weren't joking around. That's some of the stoutest wrought iron I've ever seen. So, all in all I think I'll be further in the game by letting my machinist friend do a little surface grinding on it.

I can always run down to the scrap yard and grab up some stuff to make a heavy duty strike plate for welding and doing any other strike intensive work. I can just keep this anvil for lighter duty stuff,

I am on the lookout for something in the 200 pound range anyway. I just wanted a good quality antique anvil in my shop.

 

[JackP]

If my memory is correct, If it's made after 1910 it will say made in England. If it says Solid Wrought in a circle instead of straight lines That also tell something about when it was made but can't remember the date of that. I've got it's bigger brother, mine weighs 140 lbs. Great find. They will never be made like these anymore.

Jack

 

[TDM]

If you do go ahead and resurface, you might consider dressing one section of the edge to have a nice, sharp 90 degree to strike on.

 

[springfield art]

I have an un-marked anvil that weighs 274 lbs. It was on the front stoop of a house near me for about 50 years; when the fellow became widowed and was moving into assisted living, I bought it from him and it is now on my front yard as "decoration", but a local fellow stopped and said he and his son did hobby blacksmith stuff and offered to buy it. I declined at the time but it's nice to know there's a market for such items. Any anvil I've seen go at auctions usually bring decent money.

 

[springfield art]

Yeah this one appears to have been that or somebody's yard ornament. I'm not all that scared to take a little off the top. Any dimpling or other texture on my work I'd rather put it there myself on purpose and not by way of anvil face.

The hard plate is at least 3/4" thick if not thicker judging by the forge weld line down the sides. I can't see the difference between .750 and 700 making that much difference.

When they stamped it "solid wrought", and research shows they used top quality wrought iron for the base, they weren't joking around. That's some of the stoutest wrought iron I've ever seen. So, all in all I think I'll be further in the game by letting my machinist friend do a little surface grinding on it.

I can always run down to the scrap yard and grab up some stuff to make a heavy duty strike plate for welding and doing any other strike intensive work. I can just keep this anvil for lighter duty stuff,

I am on the lookout for something in the 200 pound range anyway. I just wanted a good quality antique anvil in my shop.

I don't do hobby smithing, but have a section of light rail (trolley) rail that was sitting around during some improvements near me. (Look up SEPTA Media Line). It weighs about 39 lbs. and is about 15" or so long, perfect for a small-time hobbiest but I keep it just as a decorative memento. Good quality steel, no doubt.

 

[Eutycus]

We used to have a scrap yard in a neighboring town but it's since gone under. They sold iron there by the pound no matter what shape,anvils, chains, sledge hammer heads, etc. Iron was iron. I should have gone there when I was looking for a piece of rail iron.

 

[TDM]

We used to have a scrap yard in a neighboring town but it's since gone under. They sold iron there by the pound no matter what shape,anvils, chains, sledge hammer heads, etc. Iron was iron. I should have gone there when I was looking for a piece of rail iron.

Yep, 50 years ago anvils were looked at mainly as an eye sore. I guess some of that came from them reminding older folks of tough times. I wouldn't be surprised if a few anvils just got buried in the ground to get them out of the way.

 

[The Appalachian]

Yep, 50 years ago anvils were looked at mainly as an eye sore. I guess some of that came from them reminding older folks of tough times. I wouldn't be surprised if a few anvils just got buried in the ground to get them out of the way.

Just a little anvil trivia from the War of Northern Agression. During the war the union troops who were in confederate territory smashed all the blacksmithing shops and equipment they came across. Many a good anvil in the South met its fate that way. Hard to find one that's been in the family through those times.

 

[TDM]

Just a little anvil trivia from the War of Northern Agression. During the war the union troops who were in confederate territory smashed all the blacksmithing shops and equipment they came across. Many a good anvil in the South met its fate that way. Hard to find one that's been in the family through those times.

No wonder I can't find any around here!!!!