Edward Marshall/Christians Springs rifle question

[Frod733]

Hello. I am rebuilding a EM/CS rifle that was poorly done. I notice that the forearm ahead of lock is somewhat squarish in cross section. Is this normal for this model? I believe it was built from a Jim Chambers kit, but not sure about that. The stock has beautiful figures so I
would like to retain it. Thanks

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Square is not good.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Here is what it should look like.

dave

 

[rich pierce]

Nothing was ever square.

 

[Frod733]

Thanks for the replies. Would it be possible to get some dimensions vertically and horizontally of the stock, mid-point between the front of the lock and the ramrod entry pipe? Would be greatly appreciated. The original builder may have removed too much wood on the vertical sides and made it look sort of square. I want to see if I can do some manipulation of the stock to get it closer to what it should be. Also, has anyone built a Chambers Edward Marshall kit and ran into these same problems?? I might consider getting a replacement, but don't want to end up with the same problems. Thanks!!!

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
First, you cannot build a correct Edward Marshall rifle using the Chambers kit because the lock is badly wrong. Look at my lock above, which is very close to the original. Note the bottom does not curve very much unlike the Chambers lock. That curve changes everyting causing the entire wrist architecture to deviate from the original. The original profile is so much better looking. As far as dimensions, find a set of Houston Harrison's plans for the Marshall rifle. The dimensions you seek are both 1 5/16". The forestock is very slim but the wrist and butt are very big. If you don't have good plans or have never seen the original rifle, good luck. This thread provides a lot of information.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/building-an-edward-marshall-rifle.128586/
dave

 

[oldwood]

If you are skilled enough to work from book photographs , I recommend Shumways books. They show good details. The Marshal rifle is a difficult rifle to copy , to get it right. Study some photo's , that would help.

 

[Brokennock]

Thanks for the replies. Would it be possible to get some dimensions vertically and horizontally of the stock, mid-point between the front of the lock and the ramrod entry pipe? Would be greatly appreciated. The original builder may have removed too much wood on the vertical sides and made it look sort of square. I want to see if I can do some manipulation of the stock to get it closer to what it should be. Also, has anyone built a Chambers Edward Marshall kit and ran into these same problems?? I might consider getting a replacement, but don't want to end up with the same problems. Thanks!!!

Some pics, maybe with a ruler or square involved, of your problem area might help our experts to better advise how to fix it.

 

[rich pierce]

It starts out square if starting from a blank. With a precarve or kit, who knows. Many beginning builders mostly round the corners and end up with an oblong shape. What is desired is an ovoid or egg shape, which can vary among styles. It’s probably still achievable.

 

[Frod733]

It starts out square if starting from a blank. With a precarve or kit, who knows. Many beginning builders mostly round the corners and end up with an oblong shape. What is desired is an ovoid or egg shape, which can vary among styles. It’s probably still achievable.View attachment 253576

Thanks. The forearm was kind of oblong, per your pic. I am trying to achieve the ovoid shape by some judicious shaping and adding of some relief carving which, thankfully, there was not much.

 

[rich pierce]

Thanks. The forearm was kind of oblong, per your pic. I am trying to achieve the ovoid shape by some judicious shaping and adding of some relief carving which, thankfully, there was not much.

Like many, I add pencil lines lengthwise on the stock, setting out the “high point” or widest point of the stock, and a couple more guidelines. One halfway between that line and the top edge of the stock, and a couple more to the centerline on the bottom of the fore-end. Then most folks rasp “flats” between the lines then finish rounding it. You’ll need to really study transitions from lock panels to the fore arm and wrist. See Dave’s pictures above.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Here is another view.

dave

 

[64Springer]

Like many, I add pencil lines lengthwise on the stock, setting out the “high point” or widest point of the stock, and a couple more guidelines. One halfway between that line and the top edge of the stock, and a couple more to the centerline on the bottom of the fore-end. Then most folks rasp “flats” between the lines then finish rounding it. You’ll need to really study transitions from lock panels to the fore arm and wrist. See Dave’s pictures above.

I would add a good steel straight edge is our friend.

Set the thin edge lengthwise on the stock and check for both valleys and rises.

Carefully work the stock until there's no rocking or gaps.