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Dutch Schoultz Method?

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charliek

36 Cal.
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Has anyone used Dutch's method for choosing a patch thickness with round ball in a smoothbore?
 
I am currently using it in my .54 smoothy. My groups are improving, but I think I still have work to do. So far, I have gone from 12 inches at 50yds, to about 4-6inches at 50yds, depending on what kind of day I'm having. Some days I get lucky and do 2-3", but then it goes right back to the 4-6", so I must be doing something inconsistent that I need to figure out and fix it. I say try it and see if you get the same kind of improvement as I have, cause I'm far from being done with it just yet, and I'm sure it will only get better.

Besides me, I'm sure someone else has tried it. Come on Y'all, help us out here?
 
Thanks i have a copy of his system. It is originally intended for rifles and I wondered how it had worked out for smoothbores.
 
get it while you can ... rumor has it that he's not having a reprint and the stock is running low ...

this is the best money i ever spent in muzzle loading ...

that's the 'plug:' the real deal, and not only will you make good smoke, you'll make tighter groups!
 
charles keller said:
Has anyone used Dutch's method for choosing a patch thickness with round ball in a smoothbore?

Tight ball/patch fits will not work well with a SB.
The grooves in the rifle barrel make it easier to load. A 50 caliber with narrow lands and .010 deep grooves is effectively a .520" bore and will load as such with the exception that the lands must be pressed into the ball by the patch to a greater to lesser extent.
A 50 caliber rifle with a .018 patch will load easily with a .495 ball.
To use this patch in a SB 50 requires a .480 ball.
The 495 would be extremely difficult to load with this patch in a 50 cal SB. I built a rifle a few years ago with both a 50 cal GM rifle barrel and a 50 cal GM smooth barrel.
The SB shot best with a .018 patch and a .480 ball.
Dan
 
I have found in my limited shooting of RBs in my fowler, that Ball diameter, and patch thickness is critical to getting consistent group. For match shooting removing other variables will also
help. Weigh the balls in addition to measuring their diameter. Pour powder charges at home- even weigh them on a powder scale--- to remove those variable.

The larger the diameter of the caliber you shoot, the more those SOFT, pure-lead balls expand n the bore, on firing,sealing the smooth bore by crushing the patch fabric between the ball and bore. I am amazed at the accuracy I have already achieved with my 19 ga. fowling piece.
 
Charles Keller.
I have never applied my procedures on a smoothbore.
However a smoothbore group in southern Michigan wrote me that my patch selection method had done wonders for them as a group.
A New South Wales subscriber wrote that using these procedures allowed him to out shoot riflemen with his smoothbore. He claimed it made a bigger difference on smoothbores than it did on rifles. I thought his letter was on my web site. I'll have to look.

I personally have no idea how this could work but that would be my answer to your question.

Dutch
 
Charles Keller,
You said you had my literature but wondered about the system if used with smoothbores.
Apparently you haven't read the Smoothbore letter in theComments section of my web site.
It has been a few years since with crappy eyesight that I've read through my web site.
Charles, Half of my system is on my web site. If I had included all the extra stuff in the printed matter it would have cost too much to print so that I could sell it at reasonable price.

Those costs are going up. Read the stuff on the web site its all part of the procedure.

Dutch
 
Correction. Charles K.

The Smoothbore letter was from a gentleman on the South Island of New Zealand. Not New South Wales.

The Aussies and the Kiwi's are very sensitive about that distinction.

Dutch
 
Dutch,

Thanks for the information. I have a batch of patch strips drying downstairs. Heat and relatives will keep me from the range for a while, but I'm anxious to give it a try.
Charlie
 
ayup, pretty hot here... ninety three F degrees ... and they said that this was the great frozen north ... aw darn- i got sold a bill of goods!
 
I believe it was a minister of some variety who, when watching a cannon fire, was inspired to invent the first form of steam engine. Something round and solid was caused to move in a cylinder.
He just figured out how to get a machine that be able to repeat that movement repeatedly and to harness that energy to turn a shaft.
Instead of gun powder he used steam power to activate the movement.
The closer the round piston fit the cylindrical shaft the more of the steam power was used to create the movement and the less of the steam power was wasted by bypassing the piston.

Thus in a rifle, based on the same principles we want the round ball to to fit exactly right. To equalize the fit we use a fabric p[atch.

It should not be loose which allows the power to bypass, or too tight which would cause problems in loading.

It should be just right. Probably different foe each rifle.

Find out what your rifle likes and stick with it.

I do run on.

I think I'll give it a rest.

Dutch
 
Hi Dutch

Long time no speak, Robin Hewitt, England. When I saw the topic with your name on it I was worried it might be an obit. Very glad to hear you are still on life :thumbsup:

Cannon led to steam engines and someone must have had the idea, sure you are right.

As I understand it they switched from casting cannon with the bore in place to casting them solid and drilling them out. I have a pic somewhere, they lowered the cannon, mounted on a sledge, down from the roof using block and tackle. The drill bit was vertical and turned by horses in the basement.

The improved bores meant the engineers could go from condensation to high pressure steam and they never looked back.

The bit I liked most about your system were the pictures of targets relating various groupings to problems. Useful stuff.

best

Robin
 
Bless you Robin,
Nice picture of your dad on the forum.

The minister of which I wrote was a Scot who was watching the firing of a Sundown gun or in some other celebration.

I also remember reading that a big step forward in the casting of cannon was to revolve the "Mold" while pouring the molten iron or steel.

No Obit as yet. Was told I waited too long to get a cataract operation. So am awaiting encroaching darkness. This darkness would certainly improve the stuff on the Telly.

My sales have dipped off considerably. I have about 12 sets left but think I may have found a cheaper way to turn out 25 more if the interest revives.

Dutch
 
Squire Robin
An after thought.
I read often enough to make me believe that English cannons would get honeycombed after a number of years and frequently explode at the breech after some years of successful use.

My theory on that was that the water from nature as well as in the regular swabbing would get into the pores of the metal and proceed to rust over a period of time. I can think of no other reason.

Accordingly I was always hesitant to induce any water into the barrel and figured out how to season the barrel with petroleum product.

Dutch
 
Dutch: When I served as the "Rammer" and cleaner of my friend's 6-lb. Field piece, I had a cleaning rod that had both a wet and dry end to it, used one after the other, to put out burning embers, and then pull out any excess water in the cannon barrel. I kept dry rags to wipe the moisture off the drying swab( made of sheepskins with the fur left on) and I routinely wiped the wet wool fur end off after it came out of the bucket to limit the amount of water that went down the barrel.

I suspect that the rusting was as you describe, but since the gun was " government property" the cannon crew was not particularly concerned with upkeep and maintenance. I doubt those barrels ever saw the hint of grease to protect the barrel from rust between battles, and no one gave a tinker's darn about rain, sleet, snow, or hail getting into the barrel.

The 6-lb Field Piece my friend built had a 1/4" stainless steel liner in the cast steel barrel. He oiled the bore nonetheless, after it was cleaned for transportation and storage. And, we covered the gun and muzzle with tarps in transit.

For safety, we wrapped the powder charges in alum. foil, and used a brass spike to run down the touchhole to pierce the foil packet to fire off the charge with either fuse, or priming powder. Use of priming powder was far more exciting. :wink: :hatsoff:
 

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