Dry lubed patches per Dutch Schoultz

[ihuntsnook]

Went shooting on Wednesday with dry lubed patches per Dutch Schoultz system. Recovered patches all looked like this after a year being stored in a zip locked bag, which is pretty darn good in my estimation. I was shooting 50 grains of ffg Swiss behind a .568 rb cast from scrounged range lead in a Jeff Tanner custom mould. Patches were lubed with a 6-1 mix of Ballistol and water, dried overnight on a sheet pan in a gas oven by the heat of the pilot light.

 

[necchi]

Dutch Shoultz Rules! :thumbsup:

 

[MosinRob]

Best money I ever spent on a book. Glad it worked for you too. I don't know what I like more, the accuracy of my rifles with it, or the looks I get from people seeing me cutting the patch material lol

 

[ihuntsnook]

Just did up another batch of patches and popped 'em in the oven. I only wish I'd had Dutch's system earlier in my career. Like everything I have adapted it somewhat, but bottom line it got me shooting better groups.

 

[George T.]

I had wondered how long they would hold up. I store my treated strips in the old 35 MM film containers. They seal pretty good and so far they have not dried. Like you I sure waited long enough to get his material.

For me the best info was the first sweet spot being 1 1/2 the bore size in powder. I had been trying to get 55 and 60 grains to shoot accurately in a 50 GPR. As soon as I went to 75 grains my groups and scores went up. I messed up and told a fellow GPR shooter and he has waxed me ever since!

Geo. T.

 

[necchi]

When I first got the System, the only thing I had available was the NAPA cutting oil.
Shelf life of the lube in the patch seemed to be only a few months, the fabric didn't degrade but found fired patch's where ripped to shreds and showing signs of burning.
Switched to Ballistol as the lube agent and that stopped, patches stored for over a year are still good.

 

[dikman]

Dutch has mentioned that the Napa cutting oil, which he originally recommended, appears to be a different formulation these days and doesn't seem to work as well.

 

[Dr5x]

You say the new style NAPA Cutting and Grinding "Oil" doesn't work as well.
Actually its a disaster. It dries out completely, has no real Oil in it, Probably Glycol is my guess.
And, being dry will tend to burn down range somewhere.

A gentleman in the the Carolinas tried substituting Ballistol
used in the exact same manner with very good results. I have passed on his recommendation and have had hundreds of responses that It works as well as the old Water soluble oil.

I understand that you can get the old style product from Mobil oil but you have to buy a 5 gallon can which would last you and ten friends a lifetime and a half.

I note that you people seem to misspell my name in a variety of innovative ways which makes it hard for me to receive messages. It was mispelled on my Hgh School Diploma.

Dutch SCHOULTZ

 

[dikman]

I looked up the MSDS for Napa Cutting Oil, and it still lists it as basically mineral oil and solvent. I guess they could have changed the oil that they're using to a different type, which could account for it not being as effective.

Or using less oil and more solvent, maybe?

 

[Dr5x]

I have no idea why the current NAPA Cutting and Grinding oil doesn't work.
A Wisconsin subscriber wrote that the the patches caught fire and the accuracy was not there.
I wrote back asking what the alleged Water Soluble Oil was like and he said it was pink and smelled like fish oil.
I realized right then that there had been an attack by Progress. And was at a loss for an end run around that problem.
A gentleman named Lawrence of the Carolinas wrote that he had switched to using Ballistol with very great success.
Subsequently a few hundred other folks claim to have had the same experience so I have been recommending it ever since.

Dutch

 

[longcruise]

I'm going to go by NAPA in the next few days with my old bottle of "the right stuff" and compare it with what they offer under the same part number just to see for myself.

They still list the same bottle and part number on their web site. Seems like if they changed it they would change the part number too. But.. maybe not!

 

[dbutch]

Patches were lubed with a 6-1 mix of Ballistol and water, dried overnight on a sheet pan in a gas oven by the heat of the pilot light.
________________________________________________________

Got the feeling your kitchen didn't smell like fresh baked cookies in the morning... :grin:

 

[necchi]

Seems like if they changed it they would change the part number too. But.. maybe not!

Nah, it's still "Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil".

There was a huge discussion years back, and it came out as NAPA is Nation wide, but their suppliers aren't. They get the best prices for items they sell in bulk from the best price available regionally. At least that was one theory.

Bottom line is the NAPA stuff will work just fine if you make up just enough patch to use in the next few weeks. Just don't count on the longevity of the NAPA oil mix along with any shelf life of the fabric treated with it.

 

[Dr5x]

Let me know what you find out at NAPA.
The old stuff looked and smelled exactly like motor oil.

The first clue is in the color, the second is in the smell.

I have had folks tell me their stuff was blue, green or pink
and it didn't smell like motor oil.

I got marvelous results from the old style stuff. I bought a gallon or so which lasted me a long time and still had about half a gallon left when I lost track of it..

Would appreciate a report.

Dutch