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Patch Lube and Seasoning

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I tend to agree that comparing the seasoning of a frying pan, cast iron, or steel is not comparable to the process that occurs with the a modern muzzleloader barrel. I think that the greatest effect that may take place in a muzzleloader barrel is the build-up of carbon, the most difficult to remove chemical component left by the ignition of black powder. The type of lube may result in more or less carbon build-up, but if this build up is not controlled or eliminated, the dimension or lubricity of the bore will not be constant and the build-up will continue. In days of old, or with perhaps those that still use the method, cleaning the barrel would with water, whether hot or cold would not rid the barrel of the corrosive components of the residue but leave an amount of carbon that may initially give the impression of “slickening” the bore, but in time would build up unless physically or chemically removed. IMO, this is the “seasoning” that is referred to. Whether it gets polymerized or not, is hard to tell, but it’s still going to build up and posses similar characteristics to basic carbon. Various detergents and chemicals, as well as physical abrasion(ie.bronze brush) can effect the the carbon removal, as can chemical reactors such as MAP(Murphy’s, Alchohol, Peroxide). With carbon removed using one if these approaches, shooting is then effected by the type of load, patch lube, swabbing practice, and general condition of the barrel bores surface. In my experience the most consistent accuracy, barrel life, and simplicity of shooting has been achieved by bringing the barrel to fully cleaned(with carbon removed), state after a shooting session that requires cleaning the rifle of all residue. Were if 200 years ago, I’d likely be cleaning my rifle down by the river, and a proponent of the seasoned bore.
Agree, then I found Borebutter makes fouling worse and become
 
Barrels are steel not wrought iron, no seasoning is possible.

Actually, it is possible and if you have any modern cast "iron" cookware it is steel. Real pure iron or wrought-iron is uncommon and available but expensive. I once told Paul V this and he told me I should sue Lodge for misrepresentation! :) History of Wrought Iron

You can also season aluminum and stainless steel the same way as your "iron" cookware.

So, you can probably season the inside of your barrel by wiping it with cooking oil and holding it at 400* for a few hours. Wonder what the benefit would be or how long it would last.

Hey, how about this, seasoning the outside of your barrel for a finish?
 
Yes, this is a frequent and much debated topic. To season or not to reason...give a reason....

Here is what happened to me. Back in the early 1980's I built a Sharon .50 cal Hawken from a kit. I continue to use it to this day. Some years ago I noticed one of my ramrod ferrules was now unsoldered. I cleaned it up and proceeded to solder it back. It would not solder. What the...? I tired again and still no luck. Then. what I thought was flux flowing turned out to be seasoning oozing from the barrel and rib. I heated it further until it ceased oozing grease. NOW the solder would take.

When Lube 101 came out, I started using it and per its instructions, after cleaning the rifle, I would use it as a final wipe before putting the gun away.

A few years later I joined this Forum and read the various debates as to the good, the bad and the ugly of seasoning or not seasoning. I tried to go cold turkey on the 101 lube and I noticed the gun became more difficult to load. I did not see any appreciable difference in my accuracy. I am trying to find a happy medium. And the debate will continue....
 
Alrighty, then. Seasoning bores is and always has been a myth. The cast iron pans I have are...well, cast iron. Clean that bore down to bare steel and oil it. Stuff a Snickers bar in the patchbox for good luck. Rub a red head till it sparks and say "supercalifragilisticexpialidocious" three times. Then get a drink and relax.
 
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