Drum screw frozen

[bkrueger]

I have a cva hawken and the screw on the end of the drum is frozen in place ans also the slot for the screw driver is rounded. i am wondering how I can get the screw out any ideas?

 

[paulvallandigham]

Drill it out. Once you get close to the size of the shaft, the material stuck in the threads can normally be picked out with a scratch awl, of will come out when you re-tap the threads. Now that they make those " Reverse" screws, you might be able to find one small enough to remove the screw once you have drilled a hole in the screw head deep enough to use the reverse screw.

Q: Did you put penetrating oil on the screw before you attempted to remove it? Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Break Free, are just a few of the brand names for this kind of oil. Most hardware and home stores carry at least one of these. :thumbsup:

Sometimes, you can free the screw by heating the screw up, while keeping the drum cool( wrap it with wet rags), and then giving a few sharp raps with a hammer to a screwdrive seated in the screw head. The blows crush any oxides in the threads, and loosens the screw in the threads for removal. The differential heat will do much the same thing, making the screw metal expand from the heat, while the drum stays the same size. Remove the drum from the barrel before trying to drill out the clean out screw in a good drill press. With both the drum and nipple removed, you can better see down the drum to the inside of that clean out screw and see how much Crud is holding it in place. It also helps you try these tricks from the INSIDE of the threaded hole. :hmm: :thumbsup:

 

[RJR]

First, make sure it's unloaded (if you haven't already). You can also use an impact driver (available at auto parts stores) along with penetrating oil or heat. Cut another slot crosswise from the original slot and clamp the barrel in a vice with protective jaws or heavy leather. The downward force and turning force will normally break the most stubborn screw loose.

 

[3crows]

You could replace the drum with a new one,providing that will come out. I think Dixie should have them

 

[ohio ramrod]

Areo kroil from kano labatories will free any rusted/corrouded parts I have come across. When I got my first can and tried it on a black powder revolver I could not believe the way it worked. I went all through the shop and freed up tools that I hadn't been able to use for years. Including a pair of pliers I found while digging a trench that I was keeping just as a suvenior. Also the hammer driven impact wrenches used by motercycle mechanics ( available for less than $15.00) will work on many screws that the heads seem to rounded off to use a screw driver on.

 

[necchi]

Just leave it and don't worry about it.
You can get plenty of cleaning action by just removing the nipple.
Do the soapy water in a bucket cleaning job and the gun will be fine.

 

[J.D.]

I agree with necchi, leave it there, it isn't supposed to come out. You don't need to take it out to clean, so leave it alone.

God bless

 

[Bodie]

On a CVA the drum goes into the breechplug and is not made to be removeable. I am sure the screw could be removed if someone was determined and patient enough, but I agree with the rest that there is no real need to remove it.

 

[paulvallandigham]

The CVA breech plug CAN be removed, if you first unscrew the drum. The drum screws into the side of the plug threads, and locks it in place.

 

[necchi]

Yes you CAN remove the CVA/Traditions breech plug, but because the Drum is threaded THROUGH the breech plug threads it's not advisable to do so.
The breech threads are damaged to a degree when cut through to install the drum. They can/could damage the breech threads in the barrel itself when removed.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Pour Tap cutting oil into the hole after removing the drum. Then take it easy as the breechplug is turned Slowly, BACK AND FORTH, to knock off burrs from that cross threading damage. The Tap cutting oil will help prevent damage to the threads in the barrel for the plug.

The near side threads, as the plug is turned out, will see the burrs smoothed out towards the hole, where you can use a fine rat-tail file to knock them off, and dump them out. When the plug is turned just a bit, the following burrs on the threads are exposed in the hole, and a fine jeweler's file can be used to remove the burrs, and dress the thread so that they enter the thread on the other side of the hole when the plug is turned further. Just don't force anything, save the initial breaking loose of the plug from the barrel threads(which can't be helped.)

Once, the plug is turned 90 degrees, so that the hole for the drum is now completely covered by the threads in the barrel, turning the barrel can proceed normally. If there is a " Hitch", stop, back up the plug, and take a look to see what is blocking the rotation.

 

[fitter]

V-Man strikes again.

 

[brubincam]

-----file the screw head off flush-----

 

[necchi]

Ya sure. A guy could. But with the time involved to do all that, I am going to give the guy that just bent the hook with a vise gip and mared the barrel with a pipe wrench the phone # for Deer Creek and suggest he get a new barrel for his CVA or Traditions rifle.
Besides this thread has to do with the clean-out screw not the plug.

 

[ww321q]

I'm not sure of what screw you are trying to remove . I've had most success at removing rusted screws with penetrating oil ,a hammer and patients . Put on some penetrating oil .I like "Rust Buster" or "Yield" any brand will do though . Then get a Old screwdriver that fits in the grove and start tapping on the screwdriver . No need to twist , just tap . What you are doing is causing Capillary action to get the oil where it needs to be .The tapping also causes the rust to break down and loosen . Most important " BE PATIENT"take a couple days if you need to . Only drill as a last resort if you get impatient and twist the head off ! J.W.

 

[bkrueger]

I fixed it thanks everyone!! I got a new drum from Dixie.