Jason holgate
40 Cal
Other than sunlight and refinishing with stain is there anything else that will darken cherry stock
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Darken cherry
- Thread starter Jason holgate
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Lye will darken it quickly
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British Gun makers did use chimney sought (mind my spelling) to darken walnut stocks, not sure about cherry but I’d assume it would work just the same.
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You could try a torch. I’m a blacksmith and I do this to all my hammer handles.
Depending on your finish, solvent based aniline dyes can sometimes penetrate and enable you to adjust the color. You can also tint subsequent coats of finish with dye stains. Lamp black (soot), bone black etc. can be used, but this will obscure the grain to some degree. This is often a method of developing patina in certain areas.
easy off oven cleaner,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Oven cleaner is water based and won't work with an existing finish. This often yields a deep dark reddish color.
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It depends on what was used to stain and finish the stock, and how dark you want to go.
If the stock is raw wood, there are lots of things you can use; if it has been finished with poly urethane, you're options are limited. Generally speaking, lye (sodium hydroxide) or products containing sodium hydroxide (like oven cleaner) don't work well on finished wood, especially if finished with poly. If the stock is finished with an actual oil (linseed or tung) you can do some tricks with analine stains but you have to know the finish to get the right solvent/stain without some experimentation. Tinted topcoats (what cabinetmakers refer to as "toners") can be an option, as can naturally-darker finishes. With both of these options, there can be compatability issues with the underlying original finish.
Looking at your other posts, it looks like you used Tried and True as your original finish. If the finish is cured, you should be able to clean it up (remove handling oils etc, then wipe down with mineral spirits) and topcoat with Original Formula Waterlox (this will darken it a little with each coat) or with Waterlox's Truetone Formula Tinted Oils(if you want more color). I'm sure there are other products that would work with T&T, but this is the only one I've used to topcoat and can recommend.
If the stock is raw wood, there are lots of things you can use; if it has been finished with poly urethane, you're options are limited. Generally speaking, lye (sodium hydroxide) or products containing sodium hydroxide (like oven cleaner) don't work well on finished wood, especially if finished with poly. If the stock is finished with an actual oil (linseed or tung) you can do some tricks with analine stains but you have to know the finish to get the right solvent/stain without some experimentation. Tinted topcoats (what cabinetmakers refer to as "toners") can be an option, as can naturally-darker finishes. With both of these options, there can be compatability issues with the underlying original finish.
Looking at your other posts, it looks like you used Tried and True as your original finish. If the finish is cured, you should be able to clean it up (remove handling oils etc, then wipe down with mineral spirits) and topcoat with Original Formula Waterlox (this will darken it a little with each coat) or with Waterlox's Truetone Formula Tinted Oils(if you want more color). I'm sure there are other products that would work with T&T, but this is the only one I've used to topcoat and can recommend.
Jason holgate
40 Cal
Thank you all I appreciate your time and advice
Cherry is too purdy when it naturally ages to mess with.
Some fellers force the color with lye etc. and the results can be real nice, but there can be issues if not done carefully.
Leave the wood as-is with just an oil finish and let the closest star to planet Earth works its magic on the cherry wood. In no time you’ll be pleasantly awarded with a rich warm tone of much beauty.
Some fellers force the color with lye etc. and the results can be real nice, but there can be issues if not done carefully.
Leave the wood as-is with just an oil finish and let the closest star to planet Earth works its magic on the cherry wood. In no time you’ll be pleasantly awarded with a rich warm tone of much beauty.
Maybe I misunderstood the OP - are we talking about a raw piece of cherry or a stock that has already had a finish applied? Once a finish has been applied and cured you will have limited options to adjust the color other than natural sunlight or applying more topcoats of finish with color added to the new finishing material.
If you used Tried & Tru, try rubbing it down and then mixing aniline dyes in the oil and reapplying it.
Jason holgate
40 Cal
DealCherry is too purdy when it naturally ages to mess with.
Some fellers force the color with lye etc. and the results can be real nice, but there can be issues if not done carefully.
Leave the wood as-is with just an oil finish and let the closest star to planet Earth works its magic on the cherry wood. In no time you’ll be pleasantly awarded with a rich warm tone of much beauty.
jimairwin
40 Cal
Use household ammonia, but do NOT apply it to the wood! Put wood in a box (cardboard) with a small amount of ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) in a shallow dish. Close up the box and leave in a warm room for a few days, Fumes will gradually darken the wood. Watch progress and stop whenever you like. When done, remove from box and let air out. Then apply clear finish.
This will work even if it's already varnished or oil rubbed (slower, though). Wood will slowly darken with age, so don't get it too dark early on.
Good luck! Being also a furniture maker, I Loooove a medium dark cherry finish!
This will work even if it's already varnished or oil rubbed (slower, though). Wood will slowly darken with age, so don't get it too dark early on.
Good luck! Being also a furniture maker, I Loooove a medium dark cherry finish!
Good choice! I got a big surprise today that cements the idea: "let the closest star to planet Earth works its magic on the cherry wood."
I built a gun vise out of cherry wood a week or so ago, put a coat of Tried and True varnish oil on it and let it dry for a few days in the basement. There's a dehumidifier down there that keeps it at 55 pct humididdy... That's my first experience with Tried and True and have been reading lately that it can take a while to cure. Sho' nuff, my gun vise was still a little oily after a couple of days. I set it outside on the bench on the front porch (out of the direct sun except very first thing in the morning (10' deep porch).
Well, received the screw knobs I'd ordered to tighten the "traveler" down, went outside on the porch to replace the regular nuts, and lo and behold... I want you to see what 2 days on the porch did with the traveler in the middle of the slots, mostly out of direct sun...
So, yeah, that little fiery orb up there can do a number on your cherry wood and darken it right up, even in the shade!
Oh, and the finish is almost dried.
Ballshooter
45 Cal.
Ballshooter
45 Cal.
Jason holgate
40 Cal
Holy smokes that is amazing thank you for responding
