• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Cylinder Reaming

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Update (Warning - Long):

I got my wood dowels. I put the gun in a padded vice and attempted to push one of the swagging bullets through. I didn't even get it all the way in with the hammer - it was extremely difficult, and the bullet - nearly an inch long - was deforming under the blows.

Afraid of getting it hopelessly stuck in the bore, I pulled it out. This is too much work.

I have re-assessed my use of these weapons. Yes, they are cool, and lots of fun, and have other advantages, but, I have really come to realize the advantages of smokeless powder and modern arms.

I bought a $40 red dot sight for my Browning Buckmark .22LR pistol. The sight took my groups from 1.5" down to .25" - yes, it shoots quarter-inch groups at 50' all day off a rest.

This told me two things:

- My 52-year-old eyes have a problem with open sights, which is one reason I can't shoot the 1858 Piettas very accurately
- Despite this even a mass-produced modern gun is at least 2x more accurate without doing anything to it

Also the Buckmark has not been cleaned in 500+ rounds and makes no smoke when fired, which is an advantage in the basement, but a disadvantage in the back yard. :)

For the moment, cap & ball revolvers are on the back-burner for me.
 
Did you buy a used or new revolver, if used could it be the gun was re barreled some where along the line, or a cylinder switch. the other thing wonder if some valve grinding compound on a piece of scotch bright pad and some judious polishing of the lands would help, just brain storming here. Dont give up on the revolver you can and will figure it out.
 
What kind of bullet did you try to swag with, if it was a jacketed bullet thats why you had problems, use a bit over sized lead ball and put a bit of lube on it, should drive with resistance but not be that hard to get through the bore with a dowel and light taps from a rubber or nylon mallet.
 
My two Pietta 1858 .36 revolvers were bought new.

I bought swagging bullets with no jackets. No, I didn't lube, but they're soft lead, and the bore was coated with Ballistol.

Not giving up - they're fun! - but putting this on the back burner.
 
Take a .380 BALL put it on the muzzle with your barrel held in the padded jaws of a good solid vise. Take a plasttic hammer pound the ball into the muzzle , then with a Metal rod fitted with an end to cup [like a jag for a .32 rifle.] the ball Drive it thru the bore with a hammer. Catch the ball do your measurements use a Mic not a caliper.

Want to truly know the chamber diameters use measurement pins, same for the actual bore dia. You want the chambers bigger than the GROOVE diameter not the bores.

Lastly do not use a dowel to push anything down the bore cause you next post will be how do I get it out.
 
I'll get to this at some point.

But why the heck can't Pietta do it? :) Yes, they cost under $400, but so does my Bersa Thunder .380 auto, which is ALSO more accurate than this gun (barely, but it has a much shorter barrel).
 
I'll get to this at some point.

But why the heck can't Pietta do it? :) Yes, they cost under $400, but so does my Bersa Thunder .380 auto, which is ALSO more accurate than this gun (barely, but it has a much shorter barrel).
Load 20 grains of powder into a clean, dry chamber. Seat a .380“ ball atop the powder. Repeat this five more times. Cap the nipples and fire. You might use some sort of lube, crisco or bore butter on the balls. That’s it. It’s really as easy or difficult as you make it.
 
Load 20 grains of powder into a clean, dry chamber. Seat a .380“ ball atop the powder. Repeat this five more times. Cap the nipples and fire. You might use some sort of lube, crisco or bore butter on the balls. That’s it. It’s really as easy or difficult as you make it.

I shoot .380 balls over either 20 or 25gr of powder, with a Wonder Wad under the bullet.

I definitely don't use crisco or bore butter and have never had a chain fire.

The gun shoots fine, as long as 4" 50' groups are okay.

And this is Ok with me now.
 
I shoot .380 balls over either 20 or 25gr of powder, with a Wonder Wad under the bullet.

I definitely don't use crisco or bore butter and have never had a chain fire.

The gun shoots fine, as long as 4" 50' groups are okay.

And this is Ok with me now.
If you like that gun and want better accuracy, you may need to reduce the charge, add cream of wheat or semolina. In other words, the whole target loading regime.
BTW, I suggest lube not as a way to prevent chain fires, a well fitted ball does that on its own. More to soften fouling, control leading, and keep the gun running smoothly. Those are there different things, two of which are related to potential accuracy.
 
Back
Top