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CVA Breech Plug?

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because the machinin' for the drum or touch-hole is done after the breechplug is installed they're not as interchangeable as say a t/c or investarm & is why it is strongly advised to never remove a breechplug from a cva or traditions gun. even if ya take the factory plug out & put it back in there's a chance it won't line back up right. that's why they don't sell'em separate. luck to ya & have a good'en friend, bubba.
 
bubba.50 said:
because the machinin' for the drum or touch-hole is done after the breechplug is installed they're not as interchangeable as say a t/c or investarm & is why it is strongly advised to never remove a breechplug from a cva or traditions gun. even if ya take the factory plug out & put it back in there's a chance it won't line back up right. that's why they don't sell'em separate. luck to ya & have a good'en friend, bubba.

Wat Bubba50 said. There were four or five iterations of the CVA breech plug/drum/design. Don't mess with it at all if possible.
 
Yes it would be a mess. It seems someone changed the barrel on this and it originally had a hooked breech and of course the button won't fit so they sheared off most of the button.

When the barrel is on and the wedge installed, it doesn't move. Seller said his family has been shooting it that way for nigh thirty years, unaware of the "problem". There's probably a 1/16" of button up against the tang to hold it.

Wonder how it'll be when 100 grains of black sends a .530 round ball downrange?
 
it may not be sheared off at all. cva used two different set-ups on their guns. one is known as a button tang & that's about what it looks like, a metal button on the back of the breechplug. the tang itself will have a long, kind of oval hole in it. later cva's & traditions guns use a hooked breech that looks more like what is found on t/c's & lyman/investarm guns. tangs for these have a square hole. luck to ya friend & have a good'en, bubba.
 
I wish I could take out my CVA Mt Rifle's drum and put in a vent liner and flint lock but I keep reading it is a no no! What is the story behind your avatar and name?
 
bubba.50 said:
it may not be sheared off at all.

It is, I found a photo of one complete and mine is missing the large bulbous part.

kapow said:
What is the story behind your avatar and name?

Two, first it refers to a diver who covers vast expanses of the sea floor while diving, me.

Second, it refers to the name and design of a dive boat I designed and may build someday.

SWATH stands for Small Waterplane Area, Twin Hull. Picture a catamaran with the hulls underwater, the superstructure suspended above the water by struts connected to the hulls. Very stable in heavy seas as there is little surface area at the waterline for the seas to react against. Type in "Kilo Moana" for an example of a big ship design.
 
What did you do exactly? Have you had any concerns with it? How did it work out?
 
Kapow said:
What did you do exactly? Have you had any concerns with it? How did it work out?

I removed the powder drum and bought a "Flint Lock" from a dealer that sold replacement parts so I got a lock that was a exact match so it dropped right in. The threads were metric and I only knew back then of a few places that sold vent liners and none had any the right size/threads so I went to a hardware store and got a good sturdy bolt and cut it to fit copying another vent liner so it would be the same.

It worked fine but I didn't shoot it much. At the time I was in Alaska and real BP (which is needed) was and still is hard to come by. Also keep in mind back then internet was almost nonexistent and I had to BB to confer with and I knew little about Flint locks so I didn't know there was a big difference in quality locks.
 
hi kapow, i am a retired gunsmith and avid blackpowder fan. i have converted numerious cva gun fron perc to flint, actually you can do it and still go back to percussion easily. here is what you do. do not removee the drum just cut it off with a hacksaw and file flush, you now have a nice round hole perefectaly centered to use as a starter hole. get you a 5/16 tap drilland tap , drill out the hole using you existing hole as your guid, its is best to use a drill press but you cn even do it with a hand drill if you are careful. now tap your new hole 5/16x24 and install a 5/16x24 touchole liner that is the most popular sizw, you are now ready to swap out the locks , use a cva lock or even better spend the bucks for a after market replacement lock see track of the wolf they sell everything you will need. the nice part is that all you have to do is order a new drum and nipple with a 5/16x24 tread and fit it to your bbl so now you have the best of both worlds you can shoot either flint or percussion however i do not recommend that you do excessive swapping from flint to percussion you may streach your threads and you would have to fit up a new percussion drum. i am sitting only about 10 feet from 8 or so rifles and pistols of my own that i have converted sso i do use it myself feel free to reply if you need any more help at all or just want to jaw on it some more yours hounddog
 
Before one of you folks grabs his 5/16 inch drill bit and starts drilling, when hounddog said, "get you a 5/16 tap drilland tap" he was talking about the smaller "tap drill" for a 5/16-24 thread.

5/16-24 is the National Fine thread and it uses a letter Q (.332 diameter) tap drill to prepare the hole for threading.
 

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