• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Braintan Leggins

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 4, 2004
Messages
857
Reaction score
373
Location
Woods of NE PA
This past weekend, at the Whispering Pines Rondy, I picked up a beautiful smoked 11.5 sq ft piece of braintan deer hide that I want to make a pair of side seam eastern leggins. What is a good period thread to use? What type of stiching? How do I cut the leather in reference to the grain? I know I could find this info in books, but this forum is like a old friend who never steered me wrong.

Claude....I will be spending alot of time in this Forum :thumbsup:
 
I usually do my leather stitching with linen thread, waxed with beeswax. I typically put a welt into the seam, and use a running stitch. About every 5 to 10 stitches I do a back stitch to keep things straight and tight.

I would lay out the leggins with the line of your leg following the back bone, and the neck hide to the top. But then again, depending on your size, you might have to play around to get 2 leggins out of one hide.
 
RiverRat, I don't know your size height or weight but I am 5' 8" and weigh about 185 lbs.I do Native and I have two pair of braintan leggings. These are the dimensions after wearing and some stretching especially on the plain pair which I have worn for 10+ years.The decorated pair I wear for 17th and early 18th century events.I wear both pair up to one hand above the knee but as a White man you may want them to come up higher maybe mid thigh. On the plain pair the dimensions before cutting and sewing are at present: Top-width is 20" including 1" flaps,Length is 20",this is making them so they come one hand above the knee;Bottom is 14" including 1" flaps.
The other[early ones} pair is: Top width 23" including flaps,Length is 22", Bottom width is 16" including flaps.On my early pair one flap is 1" wide and the other is 2" wide. This is because the outside flap is fringed as is correct with Indian leggings. Without the fringe the outside flap would also be 1".The flaps can be a little shorter than 1" depending on the amount of leather.I agree with the other writers and like Loyd also suggest you make a practice pair out of some material like linen or denim.If you use a fairly heavy linen and they fit well you can use them as spare leggings especially for summer use. There is documentation for a hunting shirt,breeches,and leggings made from "stout tow linen" in 1776 from Rutherford's Expedition against the Cherokee.Tandy used to sell "commercial braintan" and Crazy Crow,I believe, sells "German tan {?}". I have made a couple of pair out of the Tandy hide but roughed the hell out of it before sewing. I used rough side out as I recall with a sander, rusty skinning knives and the like and they looked good even up fairly close.I used a running stitch and also back stitched every 5-6" so that if the thread broke there would be less to repair. I like linen thread but used one ply artificial sinew which looks and sews like thread.I believe the Crazy crow hide comes with a dark color. I wouldn't dye the leggings{walnut hulls to the contrary},but rather just let them age naturally letting them get dirty and grungy. They also make great napkins especially when eating greasy meat and the like.
You mentioned in an earlier post that you would probably be wearing britches,I suggest you cut out a leather thong, sew one end to the outboard side of each legging and leave a wide enough section on the other end for a button slot.I used to sew an extra button on each side of my britches for that purpose.
Good luck
Tom Patton
 
OOPS!I got my braintan leggings threads {2} mixed up and thought about halfway through I was replying to the other but the info I gave is still the same. I would,however, say that I do agree with what Doc said in his post.
One more thing,though,I would recommend that if one is wearing a breechclout that the very best way I have found to hang the breechclout AND leggings is to take a silk scarf,fold it in a triangle,twirl it and wrap it around the belly as tight as possible then tighten it some more and tie it in a good hard knot with the knot either in front or the rear and then hang the breechclout and leggings. It won't cut into the belly like leather or a sash will and can be slipped off and put back on easily until it starts to loosen when it can be tied again.

Read this post in conjunction with my other one and again sorry about the mix-up.
Tom Patton
 
RiverRat,
Check out this site. I think it will answer your questions.[url] http://www.nativetech.org/seminole/leggings/buckskin.php[/url]
Braintan leggings and moccasins are the best for slipping through the woods. (IMHO)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Seamus said:
RiverRat,
Check out this site. I think it will answer your questions.[url] http://www.nativetech.org/seminole/leggings/buckskin.php[/url]
Braintan leggings and moccasins are the best for slipping through the woods. (IMHO)

I'm familiar with this style of leggings which is used primarily in the Southeast and I know Dave Mott who helped write this article for Native Tech.I doubt the use of this style of construction in the North and Northeast although I have a friend who does Cherokee and he uses the lacing and forks on his bark tanned leggings but I think that is as far North as you would see them.Read this aricle along with my posts and you will see that the general style of tapered leggings is the same.I don't recall seeing any lacing in the North although the Sir John Caldwell red wool leggings {Ca.1780} have hooks and eyes near the bottom to allow foot passage, see Muzzle Loader September-October 1998,"Re-creating Sir John Caldwell's Leggings" by Ted Franklin Belue PP.38-39,50. While these are wool and provide a good pattern and instruction on 18th century wool leggings in the Northern {Caldwell lived among the Ojibwa} style you can pick up some valuable tips on leggings in general.If you are really tight on the amount of hide you could consider using lacing at the bottom where the Caldwell leggings use three sets of hooks and eyes.Remember too that we are talking Indian leggings here and White man's leggings aren't made nearly so tight and were rarely made of braintan unless the builder traded for some or was in some way associated with Indians.Whites would more than likely use primarily wool or home tanned leather either cow or buckskin.I hope this helps.
Tom Patton
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Okwaho said:
Remember too that we are talking Indian leggings here and White man's leggings aren't made nearly so tight and were rarely made of braintan unless the builder traded for some or was in some way associated with Indians.Whites would more than likely use primarily wool or home tanned leather either cow or buckskin.

Tom-
Since I am not sure of the time period of which you are speaking, I really have to ask a few questions.

Where did you get the idea that Indian leggins and White guy leggins fit differently?

White men had no idea how to brain tan?

Since braintan was very abundant during the western fur trade, when did the white hunters start wearing braintan?
 
Doc Arroyo said:
Okwaho said:
Remember too that we are talking Indian leggings here and White man's leggings aren't made nearly so tight and were rarely made of braintan unless the builder traded for some or was in some way associated with Indians.Whites would more than likely use primarily wool or home tanned leather either cow or buckskin.

Tom-
Since I am not sure of the time period of which you are speaking, I really have to ask a few questions.

Where did you get the idea that Indian leggins and White guy leggins fit differently?

White men had no idea how to brain tan?

Since braintan was very abundant during the western fur trade, when did the white hunters start wearing braintan?

Good questions Doc,I am primarily referring to the Northeast and Canada in the 17th and 18th centuries,so here goes; The consensus of opinion in this area and time frame seems to be that Indian leggings were generally tight fitting both as to leather and wool and somewhere I remember one or two references to leggings virtually wearing out on the legs.Indeed there is the example of the Caldwell leggings being made with sets of hooks and eyes,see Muzzleloader September/October 1998,PP.38-39/50 Ted Franklin Belue,"Re-creating Sir John Caldwell's Leggings"[Ca.1780]
Also there are numerous drawings of Indians from this period showing tight fitting leggings and I doubt seriously White farmers/hunters would be wearing leggings they would have difficulty removing except when on a protracted[url] hunt.In[/url] this vein these men had wives and families and probably wore clothes that could be washed.
As to White men and braintan I don't doubt that some could brain tan just as they could bark tan buckskin. It's just that I have seen almost no references to the type of leather leggings worn by Whites and how common they were.General William Lenoir,writing about the 1776 Rutherford expedition against the Cherokees,stated that a well dressed man would have a hunting shirt,breeches and leggings all made of "stout tow linen".Sheep were present on the frontier at a fairly date as evidenced by the numerous references to linsey woolsey homespun.

As to your last question, buckskin was available to whites almost from the begiining of their settlement of the frontier and hides were being shipped in large quantities to the East and England by traders who acquired them from White and Indian hunters.I'm sure Whites were wearing some braintan at a very early date but as to the degree that they were worn,I cannot[url] say.In[/url] fact I believe that with the coming of wool as a trade item Indian use of buckskin for clothing diminished greatly;after all the braintanning of a hide was a slow and laborious process and wool was easy to get from traders in exchange for deer hides and furs.I suspect that things were different in the West and Southwest. I hope this answers your questions which were,as I stated, very good ones.
Tom Patton
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If i were going to use real BT for leggings I would use real sinew or thin cut BT lacings and an awl to sew them up with.
 
I met a friend at this Labor Day Rondy and he agreed to make up my leggins. I only had one nice hide which was approx 11 sq ft. So we decided on centerseams. He has a excellent reputation and his leather work is awesome.

My sincere thanks to everyone who responded to my post!
 
Back
Top