bore buttons

[paulvallandigham]

Mr. Fishnhunt: I hope that you will find a chronograph to use with that powder charge. I suspect its going a lot faster than you think, and it good for shooting deer well in excess of 75-80 yards. You must understand that increasing velocity may not give you any usual flatter trajectory over 100 yards. That is because so much of the added velocity behind RB loads is lost in the first 50 yards. Chronograph your loads so that you have an actual muzzle velocity. Then set out targets at 100 yards, and 125 if you have that range capability. Fire groups, and measure drop. Fire groups at 75 yards and then again at 50 yards. See what kind of mid range trajectory you have, or how much drop you have. If you zero a rifle at 100 yards, or longer, you can develope a " POINT BLANK" load for a particular Caliber, where the ball never goes higher than 3 inches over Point of Aim, or under Point of Aim.

I have some data for a .50 caliber gun firing a ball at 1900 fps. at the muzzle. The shooter zeros the gun at 110 yards, and that gave him his point blank range out to 130 yards. Using existing loading data from a reputable loading manual, I calculate you would need to use about 100 grains of FFg powder, or 85 grains of FFFg to get that MV. Your current load should be somewhere between 1550 and 1800 fps.

 

[tx50cal]

Paul,
I don't need do do all of that. I can't see much past 75 yards with open sights . I try to limit myself to 50-60 yard shots. I was just saying to shoot the maximum charge that will shoot accuratly from your rifle. We all know that no two shoot the same,and you have to find the right load for yours. I personally have found that 90 Gr. of FFFg with a bore button and a patched .530 ball is my ideal load. I don't know how fast it is traveling, but it will knock the snot out of anything in its way. I am also able to shoot miniute of deer with it.I sight this about an inch high at 50 yards. I didn't mean to hijack this tread or start any conflicts.

 

[roundball]

I didn't mean to hijack this tread or start any conflicts.

Good gracious, you've done neither...and if someone is implying that you have, report the poster to Claude...he likes to keep track of that stuff so it doesn't get out of hand. There are even more and more cases where a member has sent angry PMs to some other members telling them they have PO'd him because they're paying attention to someone else's advice instead of his :shake: :shake:

My .54cal RB hunting load is just about identical to yours...90grns Goex 3f, wonderwad, .018" lubed pillow ticking, Hornady .530...both my TC 1:48" and TC 1:66" barrels shoot good groups at 100yds with that load...1+7/8" to 2+3/4" with 62 year old eyes :grin:

 

[blueridger]

I was not trying to imply that anything more than 72 grains is inaccurate. It works good for me because I don't like a lot of recoil. I don't do a whole of target shooting. Mainly practicing for deer season. I like to keep it as simple as possible. Just my preference. I don't consider myself an expert on the topic. I haven't experiented with maximum loads. I just know that I can hit the target with the combination I use.

 

[410-er]

I tried bore buttons.On maxi's they work.They prevent blow-by.I have only 1 muzzy that demands maxi's and that is a 45 caliber early Lyman Plains rifle.That shallow rifling only wanted a maxi,no matter what RB and patch combo I fed it.
Many guy use wads with the patched RB but if you have it patched the right thickness,you shouldn't need it.For me I would sooner use a heaver patch than carry something extra to remember to load.
If you try them and they work for you,use them.

 

[tg]

These and over powder cards, or a bit of wasp nest work well when using undersized patch/ball combos in smoothies also I sometimes use a .535 or .550 with a .012 patch in my .58 and they all shoot minute of deer or man at 40-50 yds with 80 gr 3f. I think the "whatever" between the PRB and the powder makes a big difference with the looser easy loading combos, and they thumb start and go down easily with the wood rammer.

 

[Rat Trapper]

Not so sure it is slang, as TC sells the felt wads listed as "Bore Buttons". TC wants a bit more for theirs, and I now go to RMC and get the wonderwads. Same wads and I'm sure TC does not make their own wads.

 

[roundball]

Not so sure it is slang, as TC sells the felt wads listed as "Bore Buttons". TC wants a bit more for theirs, and I now go to RMC and get the wonderwads. Same wads and I'm sure TC does not make their own wads.

That's correct...the point was that the term "bore button" often gets used to loosely refer to the family of prelubed wool wads in general...
Those marketed under Remington's label are officially named "Wonder Wads".
Those marketed under Oxyoke's label are officially named "Wonder Wads 1000 Plus".
Then there was CVA, Traditions, etc...Oxyoke made them all.

 

[roundball454]

do you have any experience using TWO "bore Buttons" for each shot?
I have a 45 cal that seems to clean up better and shoot better w/ 65 gr fff goex two b buttons and,.18 prelubed pillow tic. (.15 prellubed patches tore/cut and gave poor acc),
If I don't use the b buttons (all prelubed wonder wads style) the shot is 10 inches to the left of POA@ 50 yds and gets worse after 2 shots( 5 in + groups).

Put back in the two wads and the shot goes right back to the POA@ 50 yds,Aprox 2.5 in groups (three shot) I am still fine tuning the shot string for optimum acc at 50 so I have not used the rifle for deer yet.

In Alabama most of the deer I would be going after are about 100 lbs max (meat deer). and I can get close.