Bolster damage on Pedersoli musket?

[Stantheman86]

I forwarded this pic to Pedersoli, they replied back asking for the serial number of my 1816 Springfield.

I figured I'd ask for some opinions from knowledgeable people here. I honestly don't recall if this was like that the first time I took the nipple out.

The threads are intact and undamaged, the nipple is undamaged, and I just put 50 rounds through it yesterday.

Looks to me maybe the Pedersoli tech was a bit sloppy with the tapping die , on the bolster and dinged up the edge of the drilled and tapped hole? Or he got over aggressive with installing the nipple at the factory? I did notice, the first time I took it out , it was wrenched in super tight.

If it's just cosmetic I'm not worried about it, just want to make sure it's not soft steel and the bolster is gonna blow out.

I'm awaiting Pedersoli's response. I bought the musket from Dixie Gun Works but since its fired , I assume now I'll have to deal with Pedersoli.

Since the bolster is a repro of the Colt screw in Drum conversion , instead of being integral with the barrel, maybe this is something that just happens with this model.

 

[Zonie]

I wouldn't worry about it blowing out. The threads are not damaged so that part of it is still strong.

It is a fine example of what happens when the hole for the thread doesn't have a proper chamfer on the edge of the tap drilled hole when the tapping is done.

If Pedersoli decides to replace the drum and barrel fine but if they don't it's isn't a major disaster. Just be real careful when you start the nipple into the hole.
You should be able to screw it in almost all the way with just finger pressure.
If it is cross-threaded when you start it into the hole it won't screw in with just finger pressure so, if that happens, unscrew it and try again.

You might notice that this sort of hole doesn't provide for a nice square shoulder for the nipple to seat out on and make a good seal.
That's pretty typical of this sort of installation but because it isn't really sealing tightely there will be some powder gasses that blow back thru the threads making it necessary to clean the whole area to remove the powder fouling when you clean your gun.

 

[Stantheman86]

Thank You for the response

If Pedersoli decides to send me a new barrel, I'll take it , the area around the nipple didn't seem too much dirtier than any of my other muzzleloaders, maybe a little more fouling is coming out, the whole thing was filthy after 50 rounds so it's hard to say.

I'll let you know what Pedersoli tells me, I'm hesitant to send back a reliable barrel and risk getting a new one that's maybe only slightly less buggered up in the bolster area. I'm thinking all or most of these 1816 "conversions" are probably like this due to how they drill the holes on a round surface.

I imagine those screw in conversion bolsters are drilled after installation, so it's not like they can just mail me a new one and I can screw it on.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I imagine those screw in conversion bolsters are drilled after installation, so it's not like they can just mail me a new one and I can screw it on.

Technically they should be able to have that amount of control, but in fact they probably use some sort of jig.
Track of The Wolf sells a jig to correctly locate and drill a nipple hole. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/1033/1/TOOL-DRUM
You might also consider a nipple cup. (HA that sounds "naughty" ) They are meant to keep from frying the stock near the bolster from the cap flash, but they also greatly reduce the flash from riding along the stock toward your face.


LD

 

[Stantheman86]

I honestly had thought of a nipple cup (flash guard?) but since I will also be using the musket for living history , plus I enjoy shooting it in its "as issued" form that won't work for this particular piece. I'll just wipe up extra good around the nipple area.

I'm actually hoping this particular piece grows some patina and a little flash erosion of the wood is fine. I want it to get that "been through 2 wars" look to it from honest use.

Plus it would save me from forgetting it's on there and a person at a living history exhibit is like "what's that thing on your gun" "a nipple cup"

 

[Artificer]

Plus it would save me from forgetting it's on there and a person at a living history exhibit is like "what's that thing on your gun" "a nipple cup"

When doing living histories and explaining gun parts, I've always preferred to use the period terminology, though that can get a little "spicy" when pointing to the part that holds the flint and using the correct term of "Cock." Of course I've always quickly explained that was due to the fact it looked like a Cock Rooster pecking at something on the ground and then go quickly into explaining that's where we get the term the Arm is cocked and "going off half cocked," should it slip off and unintentionally fire.

During the period of your Musket and for what we commonly call the "Nipple," the military term for that part was the "Cone." This may and even probably was their period way to keep things "G" rated, at least in their published manuals.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

Stantheman86,

Unfortunately, the way the metal around the upper threads have chipped off and other damage is directly attributable to the way this drum conversion was done. This because the rounded surface of the metal around the threaded hole, does not have as much strength as if they made the drum larger and had a stronger/full flat surface under the cone/nipple.

During the period, the drum conversion was a much, MUCH more inexpensive way of converting a flintlock to percussion, rather than cutting off the breech of the barrel and making/installing a "reinforced" percussion breech.

However as one of my first Mentors in ML gunsmithing used to say, when you accurately copy a period firearm, you include all the flaws and negative points in the design of that arm - along with the good things.

Gus

 

[Stantheman86]

That's a great explanation, I've actually been told that before about other reproduction firearms, like "by copying the original firearm they also copy the inherent flaws" .

I also could feel my lock getting gummy inside due to the fouling being blown into it, so I have to pop that out and clean it.

Either way I love my 1816, my gun friends are very interested in it and fascinated by the paper cartridges. Next time I'm going out to 100 yards.

 

[Artificer]

I also could feel my lock getting gummy inside due to the fouling being blown into it, so I have to pop that out and clean it.

Often that happens because the lock plate does not fit up well against the barrel and a gap is left between it and the barrel that allows residue to get down into the internal lock parts. If there is a gap there, then the plate and internal parts need to be inletted deeper to close the gap or a less authentic way is to shim between the lock plate and barrel.

Gus

 

[Stantheman86]

I have to admit , I never took the lock out when I got it, so there's probably packing oil in there too.

 

[Stantheman86]

Pedersoli emailed me back, basically saying that the damage is just cosmetic and if the nipple fits then it's fine.

I also found out the musket was made in 2007. I guess Dixie doesn't move a lot of these....