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Does anybody have any experience using birchwood casey brass black? Any tricks to using it, and does it do a nice job? Thank you.
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birchwood casey brass black
- Thread starter Obi-Wan Cannoli
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I've used it. If you want the brass to stay black, best to rub it down to remove any excess, then put a good coat of wax over it- your choice of variety.
In fact I prefer to do more than rub off the "excess." I rub it back till there's a fair bit of brass showing through to give the brass an aged look.
Even better than the BC black for my tastes though, is to use the dirty patches from bore swabbing to rub down the brass. It gives it a really need patina after a few days' application.
In fact I prefer to do more than rub off the "excess." I rub it back till there's a fair bit of brass showing through to give the brass an aged look.
Even better than the BC black for my tastes though, is to use the dirty patches from bore swabbing to rub down the brass. It gives it a really need patina after a few days' application.
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necchi said:
This just links back to this post, followed mainly by keyword "black"...which is a tremendous amount of results unsurprisingly enough.
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Thank you. I discovered an unopened bottle of it on my shelves while making room for all of my new powder horn building supplies. I had a suspicion that it was a pretty dodgy product, this suspicion you confirmed. I was hoping that there would be some other good use for it that is forum related?
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I strongly dislike shiny brass front sights in bright sunlight. Cause me nothing but trouble. Dandy in low light, but tough for me in bright light, especially on snow.
I keep a few patches saturated with the brass black in a spare patch tin. When I know the sun will be bright, I toss the tin in my bag, applying the black once the sun comes out. A black Sharpie works almost as good, but is more prone to rubbing off.
I keep a few patches saturated with the brass black in a spare patch tin. When I know the sun will be bright, I toss the tin in my bag, applying the black once the sun comes out. A black Sharpie works almost as good, but is more prone to rubbing off.
I've used BC Brass Black and here's my observations.
If the brass is clean and oil free it will create a black surface almost immediately.
Multiple coats don't seem to make the surface blacker but they will cover areas that were missed.
The black coating is very very thin.
It is easily worn off by just handling the area.
In order to give it some protection on the CVA 1949 Colt brass framed pistol I had, I sprayed it with an overcoat of clear, semi-gloss lacquer.
Protected by the paint it did last fairly well but anything that could scratch thru the lacquer and reach the surface would instantly leave a brass stripe showing thru.
I suppose it could be used to "age" brass by applying it and then rubbing most of it off but I think using other methods for aging brass would look more realistic and probably be a tougher finish to wear thru.
If the brass is clean and oil free it will create a black surface almost immediately.
Multiple coats don't seem to make the surface blacker but they will cover areas that were missed.
The black coating is very very thin.
It is easily worn off by just handling the area.
In order to give it some protection on the CVA 1949 Colt brass framed pistol I had, I sprayed it with an overcoat of clear, semi-gloss lacquer.
Protected by the paint it did last fairly well but anything that could scratch thru the lacquer and reach the surface would instantly leave a brass stripe showing thru.
I suppose it could be used to "age" brass by applying it and then rubbing most of it off but I think using other methods for aging brass would look more realistic and probably be a tougher finish to wear thru.
I've found that 44/40 cold blue works well. I don't like a grungy look, just a little darker in the nooks and crannies and the rest of the surfaces are just a little darker. I imagine BC Brass Black might yield similar results....Fred
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Fred, I like that darker shade look on the brass. It really looks outstanding in the nooks and crannies of your engraving on the patchbox. :thumbsup:
Respectfully, Cowboy
Respectfully, Cowboy
The 44/40 certainly does high light the engraving of my friend of 25 yrs.....Tim Adlam.
Prior to applying the 44/40, a good rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool to remove whatever coating forms on brass and then an alcohol wipe ensures that the 44/40 goes on w/o rubbing. Otherwise it seems the 44/40 doesn't "wet" the surface.
All my builds have 44/40 applied to the brass....just don't like shiny brass.....Fred
Prior to applying the 44/40, a good rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool to remove whatever coating forms on brass and then an alcohol wipe ensures that the 44/40 goes on w/o rubbing. Otherwise it seems the 44/40 doesn't "wet" the surface.
All my builds have 44/40 applied to the brass....just don't like shiny brass.....Fred
Fred just a quick question where do you get your stocks from, also are they pre carved ?
I ask cause Im tired of precarved but want the bbl inlet, the pre carved are not proportionate to sometimes fore stock has to little wood or to much etc.
Beaver T.
I ask cause Im tired of precarved but want the bbl inlet, the pre carved are not proportionate to sometimes fore stock has to little wood or to much etc.
Beaver T.
If you leave your brass alone, it will do what brass has always done. Is that not what we want?
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Claude said:
That is probably why the bottle has sat unopened and forgotten on my shelf for so long; usually by the time I need it, I find out that I don't need it...
Although I have "built" 3 Chambers "kits" and a few other's, I've otherwise always built LRs from a blank. Early on did the bbl inletting and RR work on my first 4 builds, but then got bored w/ these tasks and sent the blanks and bbls to those who specialize in doing this work. First it was Fred Miller and now it's Dave Rase.
Have procured blanks from various suppliers depending on the "grade" the customer req'd and now w/ the "spec" builds, get most of the maple blanks from Dunlap.
Actually....using a bandsaw and sawing to the line after the bbl and RR work are done, doesn't leave much wood to be removed....mainly the buttstock. ...which is vertically sawed and chunked off w/ a straight chisel.....Fred
Have procured blanks from various suppliers depending on the "grade" the customer req'd and now w/ the "spec" builds, get most of the maple blanks from Dunlap.
Actually....using a bandsaw and sawing to the line after the bbl and RR work are done, doesn't leave much wood to be removed....mainly the buttstock. ...which is vertically sawed and chunked off w/ a straight chisel.....Fred
I refinished my t/c hawken and blackened the brass with it. I first cleaned the brass with a degreaser and then poured the brass black in a small dish and soaked the parts individually. Wiped off excess, rinse and dry, and repeated the process 3-4 times with each part. Got it nice and dark. Really like the look of it now. Search my name and find my pics of it.
